Questions for bottom paint shop?

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Jay Williams

I have a 2001 H260. It was ordered with factory bottom paint. When it arrived at the dealer, the paint was not on. The dealer took it to his local paint shop and painted the bottom for delivery to us. At the end of the season, the paint was flaking off fairly easily. The dealer took a look at it and aggreed (along with the paint shop) that somehting was wrong and it needed to be redone at cost to them. Since my boat is many many hours drive from my dealer, he has asked me to get an estimate from a local paint shop near me. My question is what kind of questions should I be asking? What should I look for in a good paint shop? Will I most likely have to trailer the boat to them? Etc. Any input will be great. This is my first boat and I'm still learning. -Jay
 
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John Revenboer

Bottom Paint

I too have a 2001 260. The original coat of bottom paint was applied by the dealer and it too flaked off and/or washed off easily after the first season but now it stays on fairly well and I do my own bottom painting. I apply a new coat every seaason. I use a power washer to wash off as much of the old bottom paint as possible, then roll on 2 coats of new bottom paint. It takes 1 and 1/2 gallons of bottom paint to do 2 coats on the 260. I take one day to apply the first coat and a second day for the second coat and I have had very good luck with it so far.
 
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Ralph Johnstone

Subsequent Coats Seem to Stick Better ........

.......... as John Revenboer has already stated. I don't know why, but others around me in the yard say the same thing. As long as the paint is flaking off while you're preparing it for the next coat on the hard, it's not a problem because it will take any marine growth along with it. It's when it flakes in the water and then allows marine growth to adhere to the bare hull that it causes a problem. I don't think you have anything to worry about other than lousy weather until summer arrives. Regards, s/v Island Hunter
 
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Ray Bowles

Jay, this sounds like a game I would not want to

be in. As we are talking about a new boat you better be ready and knowledgeable enough to play hard. Are you talking about a good bullet proof bottom paint job or just some color? If in salt water I would want some really tuff epoxy barrier coat first and then a good bottom coat. With a new boat at risk I would go to the the best professional outfit around and work out from there. The problem is that almost all shops consider themselves the best pro around. The best thing you can do yourself is to spend 10 to 20 hours on the internet learning about this subject. For me to give you my knowledge gathered on the net would take forever at my typing speed. Get in this game deeply as it is your boat and represents alot of things you must give up for this enjoyment. One hour a night for 1 week should give you the expertise needed to DEMAND the results needed. If it requires more money to assure this result then be willing to do this the first time. With my old boat, I find that my choices are usually best as there is no smooooth talk and the product spec sheet explains what I need. I can only wish you good journey as this is what you are on to learn and do this task right. Ray S/V Speedy
 
Apr 19, 1999
1,670
Pearson Wanderer Titusville, Florida
I agree with Ray 100 %

The time you spend doing your homework will pay off in the life of the bottom paint AND your hull. Flaking makes me suspect that the hull wasn't properly cleaned before they applied the paint. If your boat is going to spend most of its time in the water (slip or mooring) make sure they put a proper epoxy barrier coat on before they do the anti-fouling. It may cost you more but it will be cheaper than blister repair. Also, ask around the docks in your local area and see what kind of anti-fouling paint people are using. The stuff they use most is probably the stuff that's working best. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
 
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red coles

bottom job

Hello Jay: Sounds like bottom was not prepared properly. Bottm painting isn't rocket science, but it does need a good prep to adhere on a new boat. Suspect it needs good solvent wash and lite sanding before applying antifouling. If you are in and out of the water go with a hard ablative, no question. If always in water, find out what works locally. I'm confused by your statement "take it to a local shop". You need to go to a working boatyard. Good luck red
 
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Mike McVay

Bottom Paint

I had the same problem. My mechanic told me that the problem is this. With Hunter's 5 year blister warrantee, the bottom can not be sanded prior to painting or it voids the warrantee. He used a liquid sanding primer prior to painting, but it still did not stick. He has spoken with Hunter and they are repainting it this week.
 
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Jay Williams

Thanks! Not afriad of fighting.

Thanks guys. I have put up a fight, and it was easy! My dealer is great to work with and actually has become a friend. He has already agreed along with his paint shop to cover the cost of redoing the bottom paint professionally. The problem is that he is in CT and I am in MD, so he asked me to find someone to do it. This is the way I prefer it as I now have control over who does the work and what kind of work is involved. I also have already done hours and hours of internet research and am about to go talk to the shops in person. I just didn't want to leave anything out when I go visit them. Sounds like the sanding/warrantee isssue is something to bring up with my dealer or Hunter. I kinda figured that might be an issue! I do keep the boat in a slip in brachish water and want multi season protection. Can I get this without sanding the bottom and voiding the warrantee? Thanks again, Jay
 
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Frank / MD / H260

Bottom Paint...

I agree with Red... if the paint is flaking off, it's not adhered to the hull surface properly. Probably a poor prep job. I don't have a good/easy method to correct your problem. If you had a bare, new bottom, I would tell you to clean the surface with Interlux 202, to remove all the suface wax and oils from the hull. You wet the surface and then take a single wipe. Don't rub it around. After that you should be able to paint it and have it stick just fine... Good Luck.
 
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Tom

Bottom prep -- validate with hunter

Hunter will supply you and/or your bottom paint shop with the specific instructions for removing the mold wax without sanding and voiding the blister warrantee. It is quite an involved process. Contact Greg Emerson at Hunter for instructions. Fair winds... Tom
 
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Jim Maroldo

Flaky Paint Blues...

I had my response all ready, after reading both of your posts' responses. Then after everyone else, here comes Tom with the exact thing I wanted to say! Call Hunter and let THEM tell YOU what needs to be done! This way, you're certain to not void the warranty, and you're most likely to get the correct info for your boat. In addition, if things DON'T work out, you'll know who to point a finger at, too.
 
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David

Bottom Flakes as well

Last year I had a problem with the original bottom paint flaking so I too went to a sandless primer. To no avail when I hauled her out last fall, she was flaking again. However the sandless primer is holding strong. This year I think im going to scotch brite the primer, prep and use CPP.
 
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