I have a 2001 H260. It was ordered with factory bottom paint. When it arrived at the dealer, the paint was not on. The dealer took it to his local paint shop and painted the bottom for delivery to us. At the end of the season, the paint was flaking off fairly easily. The dealer took a look at it and aggreed (along with the paint shop) that somehting was wrong and it needed to be redone at cost to them. Since my boat is many many hours drive from my dealer, he has asked me to get an estimate from a local paint shop near me. My question is what kind of questions should I be asking? What should I look for in a good paint shop? Will I most likely have to trailer the boat to them? Etc. Any input will be great. This is my first boat and I'm still learning. -Jay
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Sounds like a lack of prep.
Jay: This sounds like a lack of prep. When a new boat is painted for the first time, the mold release wax must be removed first. Depending if you are going to leave the boat in the water most of the time, you may want to consider a barrier coat too. Better to do it know than pay for the paint to be removed and then try doing it. The problem now is the fact that the paint must be removed (pressure washing may do most of the job). Then with the bottom completely cleaned of the mold release wax, the new process can begin.
Jay: This sounds like a lack of prep. When a new boat is painted for the first time, the mold release wax must be removed first. Depending if you are going to leave the boat in the water most of the time, you may want to consider a barrier coat too. Better to do it know than pay for the paint to be removed and then try doing it. The problem now is the fact that the paint must be removed (pressure washing may do most of the job). Then with the bottom completely cleaned of the mold release wax, the new process can begin.
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Ray Bowles
Jay, I responded to your later posting but I find
myself a great deal more angry than before! This is a new boat and there is NO WAY you should have to eat the mistakes or incompatence of others, or even have to do the running around trying to correct their failures! Damn, this type of problem just really makes me mad...!!! You spent very dear money for this item and someone's else crappy work is causing you additional stress and work! You really need to demand results from your dealer and Hunter. Although I really hate the legal inclusion into problems you might need to look here. Your only choice is to be there when the solution is arrived at and this must be done at a paint shop that has a strong recommendation for solving these issues. Just because you might live on the left side of the moon, the problem of getting the boat back to earth is not yours! Your only problem was getting your check thru the bank. Ray S/V Speedy Let us know how this works out.
myself a great deal more angry than before! This is a new boat and there is NO WAY you should have to eat the mistakes or incompatence of others, or even have to do the running around trying to correct their failures! Damn, this type of problem just really makes me mad...!!! You spent very dear money for this item and someone's else crappy work is causing you additional stress and work! You really need to demand results from your dealer and Hunter. Although I really hate the legal inclusion into problems you might need to look here. Your only choice is to be there when the solution is arrived at and this must be done at a paint shop that has a strong recommendation for solving these issues. Just because you might live on the left side of the moon, the problem of getting the boat back to earth is not yours! Your only problem was getting your check thru the bank. Ray S/V Speedy Let us know how this works out.
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Carl and Juliana Dupre
Wax Removal....
..or rather failure to remove the wax sounds like the most likely candidate. We remember that wax because we also had to remove it in the areas where we were putting on name, hailing port, and registration decals. Nothing will stick reliably where that wax has not been removed. BTW, this is a dealer issue, not a Hunter issue; the boats arrive at the dealer without bottom paint and doing the bottom is part of the dealer commissioning process. That wax needs to be removed with a wiping solvent before bottom paint will adhere. That part is straightforward. But before letting anyone do anything more aggressive such as even light sanding you need to check your hull warranty and perhaps give Hunter a call. There are strong words on the warranty page of your owners manual about voiding the hull blister warranty if you exceed certain limits in what you do to the hull. In fact, if you want to put on an epoxy barrier coat, which requires very aggressive bottom prep before applying, you have to register that fact with Hunter to retain the warranty. If you need to strip the bottom paint all the way back to clean gel coat, then you get a second shot at the decision of whether or not to put an epoxy barrier coat on. There are differing opinions on whether a barrier coat is worth it or not; we did it, and have confidence that our hull has the best protection it could have. Carl and Jule s/v 'Syzygy'
..or rather failure to remove the wax sounds like the most likely candidate. We remember that wax because we also had to remove it in the areas where we were putting on name, hailing port, and registration decals. Nothing will stick reliably where that wax has not been removed. BTW, this is a dealer issue, not a Hunter issue; the boats arrive at the dealer without bottom paint and doing the bottom is part of the dealer commissioning process. That wax needs to be removed with a wiping solvent before bottom paint will adhere. That part is straightforward. But before letting anyone do anything more aggressive such as even light sanding you need to check your hull warranty and perhaps give Hunter a call. There are strong words on the warranty page of your owners manual about voiding the hull blister warranty if you exceed certain limits in what you do to the hull. In fact, if you want to put on an epoxy barrier coat, which requires very aggressive bottom prep before applying, you have to register that fact with Hunter to retain the warranty. If you need to strip the bottom paint all the way back to clean gel coat, then you get a second shot at the decision of whether or not to put an epoxy barrier coat on. There are differing opinions on whether a barrier coat is worth it or not; we did it, and have confidence that our hull has the best protection it could have. Carl and Jule s/v 'Syzygy'
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Clyde Lichtenwalner
Paint Shop?
Steve's diagnosis is probably correct. I have never delt with a "paint shop" regarding bottom work. The type of work you need does not require special facilities and can be done by a contractor at many of the marine facilities on Middle River. You should not have to move your boat more than a few miles to get a satisfactory bottom job. Check at Maryland Marina on Bowleys Quarters Road. If they don't do it themselves, they will know of contractors who do this sort of work all the time. At worst, you might consider trailering to Tidewater Marina in Havre de Grace MD. They are your closest Hunter Dealer, and they do quite satifactory work.
Steve's diagnosis is probably correct. I have never delt with a "paint shop" regarding bottom work. The type of work you need does not require special facilities and can be done by a contractor at many of the marine facilities on Middle River. You should not have to move your boat more than a few miles to get a satisfactory bottom job. Check at Maryland Marina on Bowleys Quarters Road. If they don't do it themselves, they will know of contractors who do this sort of work all the time. At worst, you might consider trailering to Tidewater Marina in Havre de Grace MD. They are your closest Hunter Dealer, and they do quite satifactory work.
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Bob Howie
Waxes & Gel coats
Bottom jobs are not that hard, but a little messy and time consuming. New boats have to have mold-release wax removed and any good solvent can make quick work of this. A barrier coat as suggested by Steve Dion is a good idea and it's not a bad idea to give that shiny slick gel coat on the bottom a light sanding to add what's known as a little "tooth" to the surface so the paint has something to "cling" to. I'd highly recommend a high quality bottom paint -- I swear by Interlux Ultra here in the saltwater -- and be sure 2 coats go on with a day's drying time between coats. Ultra holds up very well and you can easily go 15-18 months between bottom jobs and possibly even 2 years...but watch it!! If you start seeing barnacles -- any barnacles --, well, it's time for another bottom job.
Bottom jobs are not that hard, but a little messy and time consuming. New boats have to have mold-release wax removed and any good solvent can make quick work of this. A barrier coat as suggested by Steve Dion is a good idea and it's not a bad idea to give that shiny slick gel coat on the bottom a light sanding to add what's known as a little "tooth" to the surface so the paint has something to "cling" to. I'd highly recommend a high quality bottom paint -- I swear by Interlux Ultra here in the saltwater -- and be sure 2 coats go on with a day's drying time between coats. Ultra holds up very well and you can easily go 15-18 months between bottom jobs and possibly even 2 years...but watch it!! If you start seeing barnacles -- any barnacles --, well, it's time for another bottom job.
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