Questions about Garhauer Ez Glide

dfp51

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Jun 26, 2019
42
O'Day 28 Lorain, Ohio
We purchased a Ez Glide system for our O'Day 28 and one thing has me puzzled. The system has loops to attach a bungee cord, and I have read several posts here which indicate that the system should be rigged so that a bungee will provide tension to keep the control car from sliding forward. What I cannot figure out is how long should the bungee be? Our tracks are right about 5 feet long, and I know how long I need the control lines. But I can't figure out how to determine the length of the bungee. Any help?

Thanks in advance
 
Apr 8, 2010
1,950
Ericson Yachts Olson 34 28400 Portland OR
I believe that you will find that the Garhauer system is meant to haul the car forward with the multipart tackle. The bungee cord is attached to the aft end of the car. Reason is that the force of the sheet pulls the car aft very hard. Some sailors have put a small block at the aft end of the track and routed the bungee thru that 180 turn, and then back forward beside the track to give enough length to the bungee.
The little ball bearing races that Garhauer invented are actually pretty cool... just accurately measure your old track to be sure that the height is sufficient to allow for the car to function. Most will work, but I have heard of a few that were an 'eyelash' too low.
 
Jan 11, 2014
11,400
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
I'm not sure the bungee cord is really necessary. I had a similar system on my Sabre 30 and there was no need for the bungee.

When tension is released on the control line the car will want to slide back, not forward. The control line will pull the car forward against the resistance of the jib sheet which wants to rise and push the car back.

Try it without the bungee, if it doesn't work, then add the bungee cord, start long and shorten.
 

Joe

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Jun 1, 2004
8,004
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
I have rigged the bungee a number of ways.... and that's what you should do. Experiment. There is no one "right" way. It will depend on how the sheet leaves the car to the winch as to whether you can get the elastic cord to "automatically" pull the car back. In reality, the multi purchase control line moves the car forward against the upward load of the sheet. Theoretically, that upward load also forces the car aft when you ease the control line. The bungee is "theoretically" there to assist the car's aft movement. But... as you'll learn, it doesn't necessarily work that simply. On the C27, with the car mounted lead block on the genoa track (the outside rail), the sheet will rise dramatically from the lead to the winch. That means there is upward load BEHIND the car also and it is nearly impossible to install enough bungee force to overcome it.
My solution was to extend the sheet straight back to a turning block, which was essentially the old car and jib lead, sending the sheet to the winch at a constant angle... making for better winch operation and providing absolutely no resistance to the car's aft movement. I studied many diagrams of the various equipment manufacturers' systems to understand how to get the shock cord stretch to be effective over the anticipated range of the car's movement.... more important for roller reefing applications than for a fixed sail.

I first tried doubling the cord around a small block anchored to three feet aft... with one leg on the car and the other on the boat. There were inexpensive snap hooks on the block and cord ends. That gave me a long range of motion, but not enough tension... so I played with the attachment locations and eventually got it to work. I also tried simply clipping both ends to the car, doubling the strength but giving up some range... that worked better... but I surmised that if I were roller reefing I'd also need to relocate the rear anchor point to compensate for the range of motion loss. As the years went by, I somehow realized that simply tying a short loop "handle" to the back of the car was very helpful... I could simply pull the car backward by hand!

All of these setups were based on my belief that the upward load on the sheet from car to winch was an impediment to smooth operation. I recently went out and rigged the sheet directly from car to winch, not extending back to the turning block.... and guess what???? I works.... not the bungee, but the handle.. The upward load forward and aft of the car did not affect its ability to move.... as long as you pulled it by hand. It will not work with the bungee though.

Summary... Tie on a loop handle to that eye at the back of the car so you can sail and enjoy the awesome advantage the EZ glide system gives you right away. Buy about 20 feet of shock cord and a hand full of appropriate size hog rings... 1/4 inch cord for long range movement, thicker size for shorter range, more power. Get some inexpensive bronze hooks and a couple of small mini blocks for doubling. Btw, the doubling means you can use the smaller diameter shock cord and it'll give you more options to experiment with. Then you'll be able to experiment confidently. Have fun.
 

Rick D

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Jun 14, 2008
7,138
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
When running with a reaching pole, I want the car back as far as possible. I found the shock cord didn't cut it. My solution was to attach a small block to the aft hardware and then put a jam cleat above it. That way, I could just pull tha car aft all the way when running. Otherwise, for small adjustments, the force on the car alone will move it back. Good luck!