question on S2 8M

[yomoma]

Hey guys I got a 1982 S2 8M boat, can yall tell me the differences in a 8A,8B,8C ??
Also looking for a used roller furler for the head sail..........Thanks, John

 

[BobM]

Typically when you see letter designations it indicates A for aft cockpit and C for center cockpit. However, the 8.0B is also an Aft cockpit. I can only guess that they didn't want to have confusion when the changed the design from somewhat radical flat decked 8.0A to the more cruiser oriented 8.0B.

 

[BobM]

I wouldn't go used when there are cheap new options. A CDI is probably $600 new. An Alado is also inexpensive.

 

[BobM]

http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detail-cdi.htm?step=2&xkw=S-2

Yup...$579 without ball bearings. $679 with. Ball bearings make it operate smoother, but they all popped out of my FF4 and to be frank I didn't notice a difference. I called them and they said I'd have to ship the lower part of the unit back to them and they would repack it for free, but I didn't bother.

I have commented on my experiences with the CDI many times and suggest you search for the many discussions about furlers if you are interested. However, you can't beat the CDI's price and it is a durable unit. The only two things I wasn't fond of were the flexible foil tended to pump close hauled which was noisy and annoying and the integral halyard is a pain to pull down when raising the sail due to the angle. You have to pull down at an angle while essentially hanging off the bow. VERY tough to do in any kind of wind. So not really a unit to have if you are going to change your sails a lot. At best a once a year pain, but still a pain. Others have since pointed out that use of a snatch block forward to allow you to sit back on the deck and pull at a normal angle fixes my primary complaint. So learn from my mistake if you get one and rig a block to the halyard when you raise the sail. Also, don't forget that when lowering the sail you need to attach a line to the integral halyard or you will loose it to the top of the mast and have to go get it (been there done that and got the tee shirt when the winter wind wrapped mine around the top of the furler and disconnected my rookie hurried knot my first season).

 

[BobM]

By the way...no such thing as a "cheap" furler upgrade. You will need a luff tape on the sail and a sun cover...especially in Florida. Look for a sail first. If you manage to find a used one...which is nigh impossible then buy a furler. Other than that you really are better off just buying a new sail and furler for about $1200. This is a perfect time as prices are very low at all the lofts. Unless your hanked on sail is in perfect condition and quite stiff still it just isn't worth investing $400 in upgrading it when a new one is $600 and it will increase the value of your boat.

 

[Scup]

[snip]Unless your hanked on sail is in perfect condition and quite stiff still it just isn't worth investing $400 in upgrading it when a new one is $600 and it will increase the value of your boat.

...well, unless you are handy with a sewing machine! Back in 2003 when I had my 7.3, my wife and I (well, mostly her) converted both my hanked on 100% and my 150% to roller furling. I had purchased a Schaefer SnapFurl at a real steal, and the sails required #5 luff tape. Got all of the supplies from Sailrite (http://www.sailrite.com). It wasn't a difficult job, but my wife is good with a sewing machine. Took us an afternoon or so for each sail, and it turned out well. The current owner of the boat is still using those sails, so the material that Sailrite provided were high quality.

 

[BobM]

The luff tape is the easy part. If she did the sun protector my hats off to her and to you for finding the perfect Wife! My Wife has a sewing room with a wood post and beam cathedral ceiling in her dream house. I can't get her to sew a stitch related to the boat.