Question for Ray Bowles

[Brian Rader]

Ray,Can you provide me with a more vivid description of the adjustable jib sheet block assembly described in your response to 'Heeling Angle' inquiry - pictures would be even better. I also have a roller furler on my new (read "not yet delivered") H260, and from the comments I have read regarding this boat, as well as common sense about a boat with a high center of gravity and minimal sail controls, it seems that a main sheet traveller and adjustable jib sheet block assembly would drastically improve the sailing experience by increasing our ability to depower in higher winds (reduce weather helm; improve pointing ability too? improve safety LOTS). How will you design your more permanent jib sheet block assembly? Details, please...Also, any idea of Hunter is capable of responding to new boat customizations - i.e., could they add an adjustable jib sheet block assembly during new boat construction??? or, a main sheet traveller system??? or, am I better off taking delivery and doing customization myself after getting more experience with the rig?Thanks!!!Brian. brrader@yahoo.com

 

[Ray Bowles]

Brian, This is not as high tech as it sounds.

We have a CDI roller furling on our 1995 H26 that we sail on the upper reaches of the Columbia River in NE Washington State. I see you live in Boise so you have much of the high plain dry summer winds. Above Grand Coulee Dam, on Lake Roosevelt we have fetches of up to 15 miles where the wind funnels through very narrow steep riverside mountians and hits the boat head on with waves from 3 to 5 feet high. A 5 foot wave in a 26 foot boat will get your attention. I know you saw my frustration as logged in our log book. Now the short solution. Most seasoned sailors would have figured this out befoe I did. Our CDI furling unit mounts a 100% jib sail with the UV strip sewn onto the aft edge. It was cut in a (std)fashion that raised the aft end enough to allow the foot to ride about 2 feet above the cabin top on a close haul. When reefed in about 30% it would start to flog semi-hard and at 35% or more it was useless as its only purpose at that time was to see how fast it could beat itself to death. As the jib was pulled in it seamed like the clew rose at a 2 to 1 ratio and that could have been 3 to 1. Since the H26 only has 1 position for the jib sheet block on the cabin top, and this was positioned for total deployment, as the jib was reefed the clew rose and with the block so far back there was no downward pull at all. Flog city!!As you also know we had installed a higher main sail reef point. That was no help as the jib was still uncontrollable. After Reba made her comment about the angle we drove to the local hardware store and bought 2 sheaves with about a 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch roller and 2 caribineers. We attached these sheave block assemblies to the INSIDE base of the lifeline stanchions at the front of the cabin top. This was about 18 inches forward of the standard jib sheet blocks. When we reefed the jib in after that we restrung the sheet through that sheave and bypassed the original and then to the winch. This gave a direct downward pull on the clew and we regained control. That control combined with our higher mainsail reef point allow us to run close hauled up to about 20 MPH winds and that is one hell of alot of improvement for a H26. And the heel was less than 18 degrees.You must realize that the fact remains that a H26 sailing close hauled in 20 MPH winds still won't make much headway, BUT we had control. I also used these moveable sheaves and caribineers when we ran with the wind to pole out the jib with the sheets run from the clew, outside the lifelines back to the front OUTSIDE cabintop stanchion post where I mounted these units and then to the winch.When we sail on a beam reach or most any reach we mount these sheave assemblies on the REAR cabin top stanchion post outside the lifelines and this gives a beautiful sail shape. We did this because we're cheap and it's a 180 mile round trip to West Marine and they are the only game around. Our equipment bill for all our testing was less than $20 and we sailed over 1100 miles last year.There are tracts that you can buy like travelers except they run fore and aft and mount jib sheet blocks to the cabin top. They do what I did with my blocks on the forward stanchion. There are what I think are called "toe rails" that have a zillion holes in them and mount on, or above, the outer rub rail and you can mount blocks on them for reaching like I did on the rear stanchion.I like my $20 sheave assemblies.We just sold our home and boat this last 2 weeks and are storing the essentials with the next month, will buy a 37 to 42 blue water boat and plan to take the next 10 years doing whatever with our stupid little blocks.Be careful of what you do as you could just end up as drifters like Reba and I.Enjoy your boat as we have ours and will do with the new one.RayPS. Sorry this was so long but us short timers are prone to rambling as our minds are else where. Blue water....Sand....no snow...85 degrees..Cervasa..well the last one was close. I learn the proper spelling next winter.PSS. Take the boat and learn every trick before changing anything and the main traveler is very last!!!Learn rig tuning like your life depends on it. You'll outsail everything around. Bye.

 

[Brian Rader]

Thanks

Ray,Thanks for the detailed response. That was just what I was looking for.By the way, I am jealous as hell of your bluewater cruising dream coming true. Where are you going to start? Do you have a particular boat in mind? Planning a circumnavigation? Need a cabinboy?Please stay in touch. I would love to hear how your adventures go...brrader@yahoo.comBrian.