Question about engine cooling water hose

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Brian

I had to replace the intake water hose that runs from the seacock to the salt water pump on a Yanmar 2QM15. The old hose was wire reinforced, but there was none readily available at the time. I replaced it with hose that is rated for engine cooling water, but I am concerned about there being no wire. Am I better off tracking down some wire reinforced hose and replacing the new hose? The hose I purchased seems adequate to do the job since there is not a lot of pressure or heat being put on it, but since incoming sea water is a possibility if it fails, I would certainly appreciate some advice.
 
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Geof Tillotson

Hose, always a quandary

Is it were me, I would go with the reinforced hose, even at the expense. At my local marina the black reinforcd hose runs about $9 and change a foot. This adds up fast! I recently decided to use 3 feet of the stuff OUCH!! As I was checking out, the guy at the register asked me "Do you know how much this stuff costs?" The choice is peace of mind in my case, I would much rather have reinforced hose below the waterline, as opposed to the other alternative, which is an ever rising waterline due to hose failure. It would ruin my day to find the boat low in the water, or even sunk, at the mooring or slip. Just my $.02 worth. Anyone of the on-line boat supply houses will be more than happy to sell you what you need via mail. Geof
 
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John Cole

Engine Hose

This should not be a problem AS LONG AS there are no tight bends in the hose, which could cause it to collapse. Standard heavy duty water hose (non-wired) typically can work in temperatures -40 to +180 degrees.
 
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R. Hodge

engine hose

Found this place on the net that sells hose by the inch. 1" wire re-inforced marine water hose is $.24 an inch or $2.88 ft. They have other sizes. Haven't tried them but you might check it out. http://www.go2marine.com/frameset.jsp?servletPath=/g2m/action/GoBPage/id/51678F/&df=1
 
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Bob Howie

Water hose

Think of your engine water hoses in much same was as radiator hoses, more or less. The intake hose you're describing is reinforced NOT to give it strength per se, but to keep it from collapsing if pressure is on it or you bend it beyond the preferred no-great-than-30-degree-arc when snaking to/from a connection. The wire in water hose provides strength as a by-product, not by initial design. Also, to answer your question by way of example, I repowered by 78h30 last summer with a new engine and we ran dacron (looks like twine running in hose) reinforced, not wire reinforced, standard water hose. I suspect whoever ran your last supply hose happened to have a length of the wire reinforced stuff lying around and used it. I think you are generally safe either way you go. Just before to perform a "pre-float" inspection of your boat, i.e., seacocks, hoses and such and you should be ok. So, how about those tapered wooden plugs nicely attached to all your seacocks with a rubber mallet in a handy, yet prominent location in case a seacock breaks and you have to pound home a plug in a pinch? All your fuel lines in good shape? Fire extinguishers? Smoke/carbon monoxide alarms? Spare flashlights with extra batteries? Over the years, would you believe I've seen more people get into more problems with this kind of stuff than busted water hoses?
 
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james rohr

Should not be a problem

the hose from the seacock doesn't see high temp such as the return hose on the radiator on your car. Therefore it won't collapse. I would keep a close eye on it for deterioration at haul out each year though. The thread reinforced might be better than the non reinforced. If by chance this is for an O'day 30 make sure you put a ___chafe guard_____ around it, where it goes thru the bulkhead to the engine compartment. If you don't it WILL chafe through. Hello John Cole. How is Blue Grace sailing these Days?
 
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John Cole

Hello, Jim

Blue Grace is fine - every year there is something different to fix, repair or replace, but what can I expect with all those sea miles and 18 years of age? This year it was attention to keel bolts, and a hot water heater. Next year's list is already building, I need a new foil on the forestay - the current one is all blown out, there are 1/8" gaps between the foil segments under stress. See You Out There John
 
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andy

no problem, mon

The wire isn't for strength. It is to prevent collapse. Any good"low pressure" hose should be fine as long as there are no sharp bends.(the pressure rating will be printed an the side and should be about 150 lbs ) The vacuum from a raw water pump is not that great.
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Wire reinforced IS better.

Brian: The wire reinforced hose is a better option. As hose gets old it can break down (inside). Then the hose gets soft and they will collapse under suction and expand under pressure. If you have bends it also help prevent kinking. Like the rest of them pointed out it is probably okay.
 
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james rohr

Replace it before it deteriorated to that

One should never let a hose that's below the water line get to that condition before replacement. I mean we're talking big bucks here. MAYBE 5 BUCKS. I WOULD NEVER TAKE A CHANCE ON MY BOAT LIKE THAT.
 
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james rohr

Letter to John Cole

John; A friend of mine put a new furler on his boat this year and he has a perfectly good Harken if your interested. You would probably have to get one new foil section as the boat it came from was an Elite 324 so his hoist I'm sure is shorter than yours. Its on the rack at Tidewater right now. If you'd like i could ask him about it at the thurs night races tomorrow. send me an e-mail if your interested. jamesrohr@msn.com By the way the old yammar gave up yhe farm last year and i had to find a replacement. lucked out and found a beaut in Maine and she runs great now. even has fresh water cooling.
 
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Jack Swords

Yes, you need wire reinforced

The intake hose is a suction hose pulling in water. If it collapses due to increased suction or missing wire you will not get cooling water or at least reduced water flow. This is a common problem in cars with the lower radiator hose because it looks fine on the exterior, but the wire is gone and under high RPMs the suction closes the hose, causing overheating. You don't see it because you are driving. The same could happen in the boat. Replace it with the original quality hose...it was there for a reason.
 
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