Rfry1,
You might want to read our 2 year gear report we posted back in 1006. It's at;
http://www.svguenevere.com/2006/gear/gear2.html
As has been said, FIRST make sure your alignment is correct!
We had our system aligned twice (2 times) before we departed and it was still done incorrectly!! See our "Position Report" dated 2004-10-30 at the bottom for our story.
At;
http://www.svguenevere.com/pg3c.html
I then made sure I can do an alignment myself!!! Now I know it's good.
Greg
Greg,
Quote:
"BALMAR ALTERNATOR - Works GREAT, but have had to take off the temp sensors from the battery and alternator. The manufacturer sent me a new alternator temp sensor for free, but even with the new one, due to the high ambient temp (I think) it was cutting the power way back. Great customer service. The same thing happened this year. I had to disconnect the temp sensors so I could charge the batteries. I have added a small inside/outside temp sensor in the engine compartment to let me know how hot I am running. During the summer, I need to run with the forward engine door off, and the aft cabin door opened to vent. AND, I run a fan to force air through the compartment. I think Balmar said it is designed to cut back at 225 Degrees F. When the outside temp is over 100 and the sea water is over 95, the temp in the engine room jumps up very quick."
This is a chronic problem with AGM's, large banks, LiFepPO4 etc. and running an alt wide open. Problem is older regs cut output by 50% when hot. When the alt then cools it pops back to full output, repeat, repeat, repeat.... This really digs into performance. The best way to set up your alt is to utilize Balmar's "belt manager" or previously called "amp manger".
Current limiting allows you to essentially derate the output of your alternator by limiting the maximum field potential to the alternator, from the regulator. The field wire is what drives the alternator by limiting the capability of the field wire you limit how much current the alternator can drive. This is a permanent programming adjustment and should be made when the alternator has been run to temp.
Every alternator will be slightly different but usually Belt Manager level 3 or 4 is a good place to start. Amp Manger is the same thing but used different % cut steps.
I generally suggest buying an alternator that is larger than where you want the expected hot rated output to be. As an example I run a 160A alternator on our boat and she is current limited to 120A. She will drive at 120A all day long and never break 220F because I am limiting its max potential using belt manager. This keeps the alternator from melting itself down and from going into temp limiting. In the off season, when it is cooler, I can push it to about 135A and I sometimes reset the belt manger setting.
How do you set this up? It is not very difficult.
You will need the following:
#1 An on-board inverter capable of exceeding the alternators current capability, usually 2000W or more, or a portable inverter capable of at least 2000W or more.
#2 A good restive AC load such as a heat gun, hair dryer or portable heater. If the alternator and inverter are large enough you may need two of these devices.
#3 A remote temperature sensor attached to the alternator case that can be read with the engine room 100% closed up and sealed tight. Most DVM's offer a remote temp probe.
Hot load testing and set up:
Step #1 - Connect temp sensor to alt and close engine room
Step #2 - Run the boat under load at cruise RPM for at least 30 minutes with the inverter load sucking on the alt.
Step #3 - Return to dock or mooring and leave the motor running at fast idle
Step #4 -Keep the inverter running, and the AC load, the load should still be in excess of alternators capability
Step #5 - Monitor alternator temp, does temp exceed 225F?
Step #6 - If so adjust Balmar Belt Manager to level #1
Step #7 - Continue load testing and monitor temp, did the alt still go over 225F?
Step #8 - If so move to Belt Manager Level #2
Continue this process until the alternator stays below 225F. If you are in a hot climate a dedicated exhaust blower sucking hot air from the top of the compartment may also be necessary.
Idle or fast idle speeds are where alts heat up worst because they are developing a great deal of their output with limited RPM for fan cooling...
Sorry for the hijack...
TIP: I start at Belt Manager Level #4 and work my way up. Most alts require level #3 or #4
