I replaced the jib horn cleats with the Spinlock PX Powercleats over the weekend. GREAT! I single handed the boat for the first time! Installation was no trouble, thanks to all the help here. I didn't need risers or wedges as the cleats are pretty close to the edge of the cabin top. As claimed, I can work them from anywhere in the cockpit, including from my new stern rail sets! Thanks everyone!
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Glad to Hear it!
Probably took less time to install them than you spent talking about them here. Four screws out four screws in. It is that simple a job.
Probably took less time to install them than you spent talking about them here. Four screws out four screws in. It is that simple a job.
Congrats!
Glad to hear your project was a success, Rick. After I installed them my wife said "why didn't you do this years ago?" Even simple projects can be intimidating, but like you said, the people on this forum are a big help. Ron Mehringer Hdyro-Therapy
Glad to hear your project was a success, Rick. After I installed them my wife said "why didn't you do this years ago?" Even simple projects can be intimidating, but like you said, the people on this forum are a big help. Ron Mehringer Hdyro-Therapy
Years ago indeed!
I'm _so_ glad I came across this modification only during my second season of sailing and not several years down the road! I feel like I got more _sailing_ in single-handing the last two days then I did all summer. I took it easy and started out and kept a reefed main both days in case the wind picked up. Even so I was doing 5.5+ knots at times.
I'm _so_ glad I came across this modification only during my second season of sailing and not several years down the road! I feel like I got more _sailing_ in single-handing the last two days then I did all summer. I took it easy and started out and kept a reefed main both days in case the wind picked up. Even so I was doing 5.5+ knots at times.
Speaking of Projects Ron
Did you ever find a way (good way) to empty your ballast tank to getaway from the dock?
Did you ever find a way (good way) to empty your ballast tank to getaway from the dock?
Speaking of...
Rick W - I ended up not pursuing the ballast pump out idea. Been lucky and have always been able to get the boat out when I needed to this year. May still consider it in the future. Rick M - I love sailing solo. If you haven't already done so, look into adding an autopilot. It is the one addition I made that I can't live without. My Raytheon Autohelm 2000 steers the boat, while I do everything else. Ron Mehringer Hydro-Therapy
Rick W - I ended up not pursuing the ballast pump out idea. Been lucky and have always been able to get the boat out when I needed to this year. May still consider it in the future. Rick M - I love sailing solo. If you haven't already done so, look into adding an autopilot. It is the one addition I made that I can't live without. My Raytheon Autohelm 2000 steers the boat, while I do everything else. Ron Mehringer Hydro-Therapy
I do have an autopilot
An Autohelm 800 came with the boat. I only tried it for the first time a week ago. This model steers by internal compass only and cannot lock on to an apparent wind angle (not that I have an electronic wind vane anyway). The lake where I sail is such that the winds seem to go in circles. It is rare to be able to leave direction and sail trim constant for more than a minute, it seems. So, whereas I always thought I'd use the autohelm at least to keep nose to wind while raising and lowering the main, this weekend I opted for the quick and easy CajunTillerTamer method. I added a bungee cord that goes from the tiller handle straight down to a string that is secured under the screws around the frame of the cockpit table support. On my 95H23.5 this is in the center of the cockpit floor. This dampens tiller movement and sort of self centers. It's too soon to say for sure but it seems useful to use bungee alone or CajunTillerTamer alone, or both together. I do still plan to try the autohelm for nose-to-wind use for main sail handling, and will play with it for other times as well. The sailing season is rapidly drawing to an end here already (mid-October or so). :-(
An Autohelm 800 came with the boat. I only tried it for the first time a week ago. This model steers by internal compass only and cannot lock on to an apparent wind angle (not that I have an electronic wind vane anyway). The lake where I sail is such that the winds seem to go in circles. It is rare to be able to leave direction and sail trim constant for more than a minute, it seems. So, whereas I always thought I'd use the autohelm at least to keep nose to wind while raising and lowering the main, this weekend I opted for the quick and easy CajunTillerTamer method. I added a bungee cord that goes from the tiller handle straight down to a string that is secured under the screws around the frame of the cockpit table support. On my 95H23.5 this is in the center of the cockpit floor. This dampens tiller movement and sort of self centers. It's too soon to say for sure but it seems useful to use bungee alone or CajunTillerTamer alone, or both together. I do still plan to try the autohelm for nose-to-wind use for main sail handling, and will play with it for other times as well. The sailing season is rapidly drawing to an end here already (mid-October or so). :-(
I'm trying it today !!
Been out of town for last few days. I've been following this thread but didn't have the opportunity to work on it. Gonna do it today. I've said it before..you guys are great !! Thanks
Been out of town for last few days. I've been following this thread but didn't have the opportunity to work on it. Gonna do it today. I've said it before..you guys are great !! Thanks
Where / How Installed
I gather from this thread that this topic came up before and everyone helped Rick to install the PX Powercleat. I just checked out the website - it looks like the modification I have been looking for to assist in working the jib when sailing singlehanded. Can you direct me to the previous thread or briefly describe where and how the Powercleat is installed relative to the winch?
I gather from this thread that this topic came up before and everyone helped Rick to install the PX Powercleat. I just checked out the website - it looks like the modification I have been looking for to assist in working the jib when sailing singlehanded. Can you direct me to the previous thread or briefly describe where and how the Powercleat is installed relative to the winch?
I did it too - and it works wonderfully
This year I installed a set of powercleats so I could tack without leaving the rudder. And this works perfectly. Just a twist upwards or downwards to unlock or lock. Almost like using a selftacking system.
This year I installed a set of powercleats so I could tack without leaving the rudder. And this works perfectly. Just a twist upwards or downwards to unlock or lock. Almost like using a selftacking system.
Attachments
Spinlock PX Powercleat
I think I get it, but let me make sure. There is no need to take a wrap around the winch? Are you confident the backing on the cleat is strong enough?
I think I get it, but let me make sure. There is no need to take a wrap around the winch? Are you confident the backing on the cleat is strong enough?
No winching
Spinlock says the Powercleats are for hand tensioned lines only, no winching. The winch is beside the cleat, so it wouldn't work well if you tried. I don't know how strong the plate is that holds the existing horn cleat. The load is horizontal and close to the deck, so you have a shear load on 1/4" bolts. The breaking strength of the Powercleat itself is 880 pounds. Maybe that's actually less than the bolts and backing plate. I do know that some H260 owners have done this and been OK, and their jibs are bigger than the one on my H23.5, so I figure I'm more OK then they are! ;-) Since it's so quick and easy to work the sheets when tacking, you should always be able to cleat the sheet before it goes out too far, requiring winching to get it back in. If you later let it out and need to haul it back in, well, I haven't had my boat long enough to know if a winch is required or not or if I'll always be able to do it my hand. The PX cleats are similar to the clutches in that you can just pull on the cleated line to harden it without having to first release it. However, to ease the sheet you have to release it. I suppose you could have such a load on the jib that the sheet would be pulled through your hands when you released the PX cleat to _ease_ the sheet. I don't know yet. I guess one solution would be to head up momentarily to ease the load so it could be trimmed more easily. I spent many days this summer just sitting in the boat in the marina wishing I had crew on perfectly fine sailing days. No longer! I can single-hand the boat now (I have a furler on the jib).
Spinlock says the Powercleats are for hand tensioned lines only, no winching. The winch is beside the cleat, so it wouldn't work well if you tried. I don't know how strong the plate is that holds the existing horn cleat. The load is horizontal and close to the deck, so you have a shear load on 1/4" bolts. The breaking strength of the Powercleat itself is 880 pounds. Maybe that's actually less than the bolts and backing plate. I do know that some H260 owners have done this and been OK, and their jibs are bigger than the one on my H23.5, so I figure I'm more OK then they are! ;-) Since it's so quick and easy to work the sheets when tacking, you should always be able to cleat the sheet before it goes out too far, requiring winching to get it back in. If you later let it out and need to haul it back in, well, I haven't had my boat long enough to know if a winch is required or not or if I'll always be able to do it my hand. The PX cleats are similar to the clutches in that you can just pull on the cleated line to harden it without having to first release it. However, to ease the sheet you have to release it. I suppose you could have such a load on the jib that the sheet would be pulled through your hands when you released the PX cleat to _ease_ the sheet. I don't know yet. I guess one solution would be to head up momentarily to ease the load so it could be trimmed more easily. I spent many days this summer just sitting in the boat in the marina wishing I had crew on perfectly fine sailing days. No longer! I can single-hand the boat now (I have a furler on the jib).
Spinlock PX
I agree it hurts when you can't find crew and its a perfect sailing day. I'm going to check the backing to see how strong it looks. This looks like a breakthru for us single handers!
I agree it hurts when you can't find crew and its a perfect sailing day. I'm going to check the backing to see how strong it looks. This looks like a breakthru for us single handers!
George
I have no doubt that the backing plate and the 1/4 screws are more than up for the task. The Powercleat will most likely fail long before the support system. So, go for it. If it doesn't work out you can always reinstall the horn cleats. That's the beauty of this addition, it requires no modification to the boat itself. Ron Mehringer
I have no doubt that the backing plate and the 1/4 screws are more than up for the task. The Powercleat will most likely fail long before the support system. So, go for it. If it doesn't work out you can always reinstall the horn cleats. That's the beauty of this addition, it requires no modification to the boat itself. Ron Mehringer
Brian/George - other recent Powercleat PX threads
If you haven't found it by now the two other recent threads to read in the archives are "240 jib sheets again" and "reefing blocks". You'll find more pictures and instructions. One detail: my 95H23.5 had 2" 1/4 x 20 bolts. Since the horn cleats are 1/2" higher than the thickness of the PX base, 1-1/2" bolts worked for me. The originals would have surely hit the cabin liner underneath. The tops were domed so I had to grind two of them flat, one for the back part of each cleat. I had to enlarge the bolt holes in the PX to 1/4", and I had to countersink the back hole a bit more using a 1/2" countersink bit. Somebody suggested silicon instead of 4200/5200 so I bedded mine with clear silicon adhesive. But, as Ron said, no change required to the boat itself. I could easily put the horns back on at sea, except I sail on a lake... ;-)
If you haven't found it by now the two other recent threads to read in the archives are "240 jib sheets again" and "reefing blocks". You'll find more pictures and instructions. One detail: my 95H23.5 had 2" 1/4 x 20 bolts. Since the horn cleats are 1/2" higher than the thickness of the PX base, 1-1/2" bolts worked for me. The originals would have surely hit the cabin liner underneath. The tops were domed so I had to grind two of them flat, one for the back part of each cleat. I had to enlarge the bolt holes in the PX to 1/4", and I had to countersink the back hole a bit more using a 1/2" countersink bit. Somebody suggested silicon instead of 4200/5200 so I bedded mine with clear silicon adhesive. But, as Ron said, no change required to the boat itself. I could easily put the horns back on at sea, except I sail on a lake... ;-)
2:1 Jib Sheet System
I am going to try the Powercleats solution. My question earlier about location for installation of the Powercleats related to how you could use the Powercleats with the winches. Since we cannot use both the Powercleats and the winches, consider a 2:1 jib sheet system. My wife loves it. Even in the heaviest wind, we never need to use the winch handles to work the jib. Since I already have the 2:1 system, I plan on getting the Powercleats asap and using in conjuction with the 2:1 jib sheets. Excellent solution for singlehanding. Thanks for the idea and input!
I am going to try the Powercleats solution. My question earlier about location for installation of the Powercleats related to how you could use the Powercleats with the winches. Since we cannot use both the Powercleats and the winches, consider a 2:1 jib sheet system. My wife loves it. Even in the heaviest wind, we never need to use the winch handles to work the jib. Since I already have the 2:1 system, I plan on getting the Powercleats asap and using in conjuction with the 2:1 jib sheets. Excellent solution for singlehanding. Thanks for the idea and input!
2:1 Info?
Brian, can you describe how you rigged a 2:1 jib sheet system? Ron Mehringer Hydro-Therapy
Brian, can you describe how you rigged a 2:1 jib sheet system? Ron Mehringer Hydro-Therapy
2:1 Description
Some of the terminology may not be correct (disclaimer) but, here goes. I got new jib fairleads. They have the exact same screw setup as the existing fairleads on my 2003 260. The holes are 1-1/16" apart. The new fairlead has an attachment for one end of the jib sheet on top and the standard fairlead block beneath it. Jib line runs from the attachment on the top of the fairlead to a new block at the clew of the jib, back to the block on the fairlead and back to the winch (or the Powercleat). Repeat for the other side of the boat. Jib is amazingly easy to trim now. System can be a bit difficult in light winds - hard to ease the jib if the wind isn't helping to push the sail out. But, with the Powercleat - - should be easy to use WITHOUT the winch!
Some of the terminology may not be correct (disclaimer) but, here goes. I got new jib fairleads. They have the exact same screw setup as the existing fairleads on my 2003 260. The holes are 1-1/16" apart. The new fairlead has an attachment for one end of the jib sheet on top and the standard fairlead block beneath it. Jib line runs from the attachment on the top of the fairlead to a new block at the clew of the jib, back to the block on the fairlead and back to the winch (or the Powercleat). Repeat for the other side of the boat. Jib is amazingly easy to trim now. System can be a bit difficult in light winds - hard to ease the jib if the wind isn't helping to push the sail out. But, with the Powercleat - - should be easy to use WITHOUT the winch!
2:1 more info?
Very interesting Brian. Who makes the new fairleads you installed? Model #? Thanks Ron Mehringer H26 Hydro-Therapy
Very interesting Brian. Who makes the new fairleads you installed? Model #? Thanks Ron Mehringer H26 Hydro-Therapy
2:1 More Info Response...
I do not know the model number. The fairleads are either Lewmar or Harken (Lewmar, I think; boat is 2 hours away). I was able to use the existing screws from the factory-installed fairleads to install the new fairleads. Also, I called Hunter before installing the new fairleads...I was concerned that the jib line attachment point on the deck would exert a different type of stress that the deck/attachment point was not intended to accept. A Hunter engineer assured me that the design would be safe. Works great too...in heavy winds my wife can easily trim the jib w/out using the winch handle.
I do not know the model number. The fairleads are either Lewmar or Harken (Lewmar, I think; boat is 2 hours away). I was able to use the existing screws from the factory-installed fairleads to install the new fairleads. Also, I called Hunter before installing the new fairleads...I was concerned that the jib line attachment point on the deck would exert a different type of stress that the deck/attachment point was not intended to accept. A Hunter engineer assured me that the design would be safe. Works great too...in heavy winds my wife can easily trim the jib w/out using the winch handle.
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