PVC Plumbing

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Allen

I bought a 1977 Catalina 30 last year. The previous owner put in all PVC pipes leading from the head to the holding tank & to the overboard discharge. My surveyor recommended that I replace the PVC with marine hose, saying that if the PVC cracked, the boat would take on a lot of water. To me it seems that the PVC is installed very securely. There is no movement in the pipes & there is absolutely no leakage whatsoever. All of the couplings to the tank & the head have a rubber hose that will absorb shock if I'm in heavy seas. Additionally, there is no smell that will permeate this stuff so I'm inclined to keep it as is. What are your thoughts? Allen s/v Drambuie Catalina 30, Hull #632
 
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Victor Robert

Keep through-hull closed

If you leave the seacock after the macerator closed, as you should do if you don't want the holding tank to fill, then the risk should be limited to a stinking mess, not a sinking boat. I'm not sure exactly how it relates, but the first thing that came to my mind was the fact that we had about a 50% failure rate in the consumer plastic containers on board when we cruised the Bahamas (detergent, cleaning solutions, water jugs, etc.). Fortunately, no oil containers broke, although I know this did happen to other cruisers. My theory is that these plastics are designed and tested for the stable environment of the store shelf and the home shelf with an occasional ride in a truck or car. When subjected to constant motion for several months, the slight movement of the liquid inside causes fatigue cracks in the plastic by constantly bending it back and forth. Intuitively, I would be inclined to switch to the flex marine plumbing eventually. Just don't skimp on the quality. I installed what I thought was regular marine head hose a couple of years ago and had to do the job all over again last week because the hose had collapsed and completely flattened on two turns. Regardless of quality, avoid sharp turns (i.e. where you have to apply strong pressure to get the hose to turn). Note: A hair dryer to heat and soften the hose ends helps tremendously when trying to push them over barbs.
 
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Peggie Hall/Headmistress

You may have to replace some, but not all

The hard pipe should not be directly connected to ANYthing "rigid"--the head, the tank, any macerator or pump, or thru-hull...ALL should be "soft coupled" with enough hose to provide adequate shock absorption in heavy seas. As for keeping the seacock closed, you should do that no matter whether hose or hard pipe is in the system...hoses can split, hose clamps can fail. And there should be vented loops where vented loops would be if hose were used. All that said, I'm not a fan of hard pipe except for long straight runs. Every joint/elbow becomes one more thing that can cause problems. And although hard pipe is odor permeation proof, it's not immune to sea water calcium carbonate buildup, which can reduce the diameter of the pipe in a short time if it's left unchecked. You stll have the same amount of system maintenance. So you don't really gain very much by using hard pipe, but you have it and there's no pressing reason to replace it with hose except where it's connected to equipment or a thru-hull.
 
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Peggie Hall/Headmistress

Vic, your experience demonstrates why

hose should never be forced to bend more than it will be bend easily...and should never be heated to bend it. The quality of the hose is immaterial...sooner or later too much stress will collapse any hose...and heating only weakens it. I can only preach...sorry you had to find out the hard way that I'm right.
 
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