I used the info on this guy's videos and used the vinyl cement he shows. So far things are fine. I had some separation around the transom that needed repaired.
I got the vinyl cement here if I remember right ...
https://www.sailrite.com/HH-66-Viny...MIyb7Tof_A2AIVFp7ACh1T_wJoEAQYAiABEgK32fD_BwE
As the guy in the video says this is the cement to use and at this point I agree,
Sumner
==========================================================================
1300 miles to The Bahamas and Back in the Mac...
Endeavour 37 Mods...
MacGregor 26-S Mods...
Mac Trips to Utah, Idaho, Wyoming, Canada, Florida, Bahamas
https://www.sailrite.com/HH-66-Viny...MIyb7Tof_A2AIVFp7ACh1T_wJoEAQYAiABEgK32fD_BwE
As the guy in the video says this is the cement to use and at this point I agree,
Sumner
==========================================================================
1300 miles to The Bahamas and Back in the Mac...
Endeavour 37 Mods...
MacGregor 26-S Mods...
Mac Trips to Utah, Idaho, Wyoming, Canada, Florida, Bahamas
Thanks. I've ordered the HH-66 cement. Looks like I'll need to inflate the dinghy tube to work on the transom. My thoughts is after the cement dry, I'll stitch the transom pvc to dinghy base pvc and use hh-66 to seal any stitching holes. Stitching is to add mechanical tightness over the cement so hopefully the joint won't split under load/use. Another is at where the transom joins to tubes, there seems to be some void which I intend to fill with Sikaflex 295UV White PU sealant or should I use silicone sealant. Any idea?
- HH-66 is a type of contact cement. It yellows and degrades on exposure. Use something like 3M quick set 4200 for filling surface holes. I use the white stuff for all the little RIB abrasions to recover the exposed fabric core. It bonds and lasts well over the years. Prep the surface with acetone or MEK.
- Somewhere on the site here you will find an inflatable rebuild project like yours where the guy glued up his transom to boat pocket with flexible epoxy. Believe it was G-Flex. This is an extreme loading requirement not suitable for ordinary sealants. You want a glue bond.
I didn't watch the video, but I've owned inflatables since 1971 and have of course had to do a few patches, now and then. We've added lifting rings to our present Zodiac and they have held for years. As we keep the Zodiac on the davits whenever it is not in use AND when sailing, I think that says something.
The most important thing about inflatable boat repair is not the glue. We use a 2 part epoxy and it works just fine. The most important part is the prep work. There can be no foreign matter on the joints to be glued. NONE, NADA, NIENTE, ZERO! The tubes must be sanded so that there is no shine left to the grey, even if it shows some of the cloth material. Even the oils from your fingers will inhibit adhesion.
The dink must be fully inflated to the shape you want it to have when finished after the glue is applied; no glue will hold if the material changes shape. A transom joint is difficult and (not to be a downer) almost impossible for one to do successfully at home. The professionals will remove it completely from the boat for cleaning and prep, rather than try and do only one side. If your transom is wood, it most likely will need to dry out before you can begin the process of repairing it.
I have no idea of how much hp you push your dink with, but if you normally zip around on a plane (we have a 15, 4 stroke), don't expect that repair to last too long. There is a great deal of torque on the transom of an inflatable pushed by an outboard motor, especially when encountering wakes and waves.
Good luck and if all goes well, you should be able to extend your dink's life by a few years.
The most important thing about inflatable boat repair is not the glue. We use a 2 part epoxy and it works just fine. The most important part is the prep work. There can be no foreign matter on the joints to be glued. NONE, NADA, NIENTE, ZERO! The tubes must be sanded so that there is no shine left to the grey, even if it shows some of the cloth material. Even the oils from your fingers will inhibit adhesion.
The dink must be fully inflated to the shape you want it to have when finished after the glue is applied; no glue will hold if the material changes shape. A transom joint is difficult and (not to be a downer) almost impossible for one to do successfully at home. The professionals will remove it completely from the boat for cleaning and prep, rather than try and do only one side. If your transom is wood, it most likely will need to dry out before you can begin the process of repairing it.
I have no idea of how much hp you push your dink with, but if you normally zip around on a plane (we have a 15, 4 stroke), don't expect that repair to last too long. There is a great deal of torque on the transom of an inflatable pushed by an outboard motor, especially when encountering wakes and waves.
Good luck and if all goes well, you should be able to extend your dink's life by a few years.
Another bummer. SX-69 a very similar adhesive is also ship from US. So there's just no way I could get my hands on these "highly flammable" adhesive!
Discovered Vyna Bond supplier in Singapore don't bring this stuff anymore!
So now I'm down to using 3M 4000/4200 (it being flexible after cure) for repair work. Suggestions welcome. Thanks.
Discovered Vyna Bond supplier in Singapore don't bring this stuff anymore!
So now I'm down to using 3M 4000/4200 (it being flexible after cure) for repair work. Suggestions welcome. Thanks.
http://solutions.3m.com.sg/wps/portal/3M/en_SG/IATD/Main/CustomerService/wtb/
Try this Website.
-Will (Dragonfly)
Try this Website.
-Will (Dragonfly)
Google is your friend; http://epoxy.com/303.pdf
I've found it in 8oz and 16oz (each two bottles). The 3oz tubes are of little use.
I use Devils Seed, AKA 3M 5200. I abrade heavily and tape everything very well and it works GREAT. I have lifting rings that take a lot of stress that have held up well. Similar install efforts with the HH stuff failed.