Putting a C-22 on the trailer

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A

Art

Here is a question: When retrieving a C-22 the trailer and the boat are not in the same plain. Ie. the trailer is at the angle of the boat ramp and the boat is level (hopefully). If you winch the boat in tight to the trailer V block and begin to pull the boat out of the water the trailer winch holds the bow down and the boat does not sit properly on the trailer. If you leave the boat a little loose it does not come all the way up to the V block. I am not sure if my winch is placed too low or what. One other thing. The trailer is not a catalina trailer. It has been retrofitted for my C-22. It seems to fit well and is ballanced well. By the by, how much tounge weight shouold there be? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Merry Christmas Art <)))><
 
T

tom

hmm...

almost sounds like you mite have the trailer too far in the water...
 
F

fox

trailer & boat

You have the same questions I had about 3 months ago. I have a capri22 fin keel boat and was having trouble getting the boat to stay on bow stop. Here is what I did. Position the trailer winch so that it is basically horizontal with bow eye on boat when boat is on trailer. I made a double bow stop (buy steel straps from home depot) that the boat will touch above and below winch/bow eye horizontal location. The key is that the double bow stop pivots at the center which is the same horizontal position as the winch. Check out some of the J22 type EZ loader trailers ---they have this double bow stop. The nice thing about this is as you winch the boat tight against the bow stop, the stop will rotate as the boat rotates to sit on trailer. But again everything must be centered (same horizontal plane) about the bow eye on trailer. Back trailer into water so bow eye is near the horizontal position of winch. Winch boat tight. Pull boat out. Sometimes you can use the front of your pads/bunks to get the bow of the boat in the correct position relative to the trailer winch. hope this helps. Also, Here is a response from the J22 forum on when I posted the same question. The problem I think you are having is the attachment point on the boat and the winch location are not at equal angles when the trailer is floated vs. when the boat is properly on the trailer. You float the boat on, tighten it up and when you pull out, the angles change and the bow is now not where it was. Ideally, what you want is the attachment point to be snug on the support at most reasonable angles. It needs to be a pivot point where independant of the angle, the distance is equal. It may require adjusting your support or the attachment point on the boat. On my trailer, my attachement is a bow eye about 1 ft below the bow. The support is an articulating dual pad/bumper and the eye is winched between these pads. As the boat is pulled out, the pads rotate with the bow. Everything stays tight because the angle of pull is unchanged. My trailer is an EZLoader and this is standard on them, I think. On trailer depth, back it down until the support is at the right height above the water for the boat to just float to there, then tie it down. Remeber that when you go forward on the boat, the bow will dig in about 6 inches. Really doesn't require a winch, but they work fine for this.
 
D

Dick of Sylvan

Bow Space

If my C-22 is only a few inches away from the front stop of the trailer when back on dry land, and if the boat hull is well supported by the bunks, and the keel is supported, I don't sweat it. When I drive a ways, and go over a few bumps either on the level or downhill, the hull moves forward on its own. So after a brief pull, I stop and tighten the winch, and all is well ever-after. This little problem happens on some ramps and not on others, depending on the steepness of the ramp. Re/tongue weight, I don't know, but suspect mine is in the neighborhood of 200lbs. Reading in the C-22 tech. manual, I see someone uses as light as 50 lbs. but I wouldn't go that light since if its too light it won't trail well and can even cause your tow vehicle to swerve back and forth which could end in disaster.
 
S

Scot

But the winch isn't the pivot point

I experience this problem with my C22 wing keel, but the rotating bow stop won't work because the winch is not the pivot point. With the trailer in the water, I can winch the bow all the way up to the stop. At this point, the front corner of the keel is resting on the trailer. As I pull out, the boat settles back onto the bottom of the keel* and the bunks. Since the front corner of the keel is the pivot point, the bow is pulled away from the stop by about 6 inches. If I don't slacken the winch strap it is subjected to extreme tension. The only solutions I can think of are either fabricating a fore/aft adjustable bow stop or raising the bunks so the keel doesn't touch the trailer. I should probably call Catalina as see how it is supposed to work. Scot * Before anyone gets excited, Catalina says that the wing keel is supposed to support the weight of the boat when on the trailer. The bunks are just supposed to stabilize the hull.
 
F

fox

keel is not pivot

The front of the keel is not the pivot. Your keel should not even be in contact with the trailer when the trailer is in the water and the boat can float on to it. May be if you don't sink your trailer deep enough will the keel be a pivot point. The bow must be the pivot point and using a double bow stop that rotates about a point aligned with the bow eye works great. As the boat is pulled out of water the double bow stop rotates, the boat is tight against the stop and the keel will utlimately come to rest on the the keel support. If the double bow stop is not aligned with the bow eye and winch, the boat will not stay in the position.
 
B

Brad

Tonge weight - 5% - 10%

I think that's what I've heard.....so on the 22, you'll want several hundred pounds. Brad on the Willy T
 
A

Aldo

I move my bow stop forward

Art: I know exactly what you are talking about. I also had this problem. I saw how a friend of mine had a Chrysler 22, and on his trailer the bow stop moved forward and backward. I made some pieces for my trailer, actually just a few steel blocks with holes drilled into them, to move my bow stop frame forward for pulling the boat out of the water, and then I move it back to its normal position once the boat is pulled. The distance is 4 inches. If your trailer is a Trailrite, send me a message at aa.camacci@comcast.net, and I will try to find the photos of how I do this for you. From reading the other responses, it does seem like there is a better way to solve this problem than the one I came up with, but my solution does work well for me, and I always feel much better knowing the boat is on the trailer correctly. I trailer it 100 miles from the water to my home every fall. Aldo
 
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