I push the starting button in - nothing, then I push it in several times quickly eng starts. 1991 Hunter probably the switch should be replaced? Best place to order one?
Push button switch for starter
- Thread starter Mistyseas1991
- Start date
These push-start buttons rarely fail. If not done already, you could start by cleaning the contacts to see if it takes care of the problem. If you have a Yanmar engine I suspect you're suffering from a common problem of the starting wire going to the solenoid being too small. Well documented here with different solutions, the 2 easiest being the replacement of the wire with a heavier gauge one or the installation of a relay on the solenoid. Good luck
The starter button on my Yanmar 2GM20F seems a bit worn out…I have to press it on one side usually to get it to work. I always get it to start, but I have purchased a new one to install when I do my engine control panel project.
As others have said, wiring issues may be the more normal reason the button doesn’t work.
Greg
As others have said, wiring issues may be the more normal reason the button doesn’t work.
Greg
I agree with all who said “clean” the contacts. Mine were so bad (as Greg stated) I had to really press on the button to get it to work. I had to replace the starter button as a result of pressing to hard. It just failed.
One word of caution though, take photos of all the wires attached and there placement. If not you will blow the fuse near the engine when you think a wire goes where it shouldn’t.
One word of caution though, take photos of all the wires attached and there placement. If not you will blow the fuse near the engine when you think a wire goes where it shouldn’t.
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The rubber weather proof cover is subject to failure.. Both from dry rot and usage cracks that are not very visible.. Options abound..I went to a Caterpillar dealer and bought my replacement... Think about it, an open dozer's starter switch deeps to be robust... Never a bit of problems.. After replacement the old button was dissected.. lots of corrosion !
It‘s off the subject but jviss is on track with a second button. I did just that on my 1972 Chevy Vega with its aluminum engine. That car would heat up so much it would just stop. I installed a second spring loaded toggle switch in the truck to by pass the overheated key. That car got so hot I never had to put the heat on.
Anyway, the redundant button is an option.
Spray the connections with a Dielectric Grease to help ward off corrosion.
Anyway, the redundant button is an option.
Spray the connections with a Dielectric Grease to help ward off corrosion.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 21,844
Ahhh the fresh marine air. Breath in. A good deep breath.
If it can do that corrosion stuff to your metal switches hidden behind a water resistant panel, do you ever wonder what is doing to your lungs.
I have been giving my exposed metal parts a spray of Corrosion Block as I work on various parts. They seem to have a longer shelf life now. It has worked wonders on my exposed 365 days key locks on the boat. Now going on 3 years with an inexpensive master key lock on the lazerett. Still working like new.
If it can do that corrosion stuff to your metal switches hidden behind a water resistant panel, do you ever wonder what is doing to your lungs.
I have been giving my exposed metal parts a spray of Corrosion Block as I work on various parts. They seem to have a longer shelf life now. It has worked wonders on my exposed 365 days key locks on the boat. Now going on 3 years with an inexpensive master key lock on the lazerett. Still working like new.
For Yanmar 2GM20F engine. Don't forget to check & clean the wire connection at the Solenoid side. Mine had the small screw, that secure the wire lug to solenoid loosen. This connection has a rubber boot and is hidden by thick cable & alternator hence not easily seen.
"I took the easy way out and went with:"
Hi Ralph. I am currently working through the wiring on my 2qm20. I'm finding several 'extra wires' and just poor wiring connections all throughout my harness. Looking at the yanmar wiring diagram seems pretty simple and straightforward, however in my hands the harness is a mess, only some of the color wire matches and the fuse block on the motor had a screwdriver bit in it when I found it.
Sooooo, I'm pretty close to just rewiring the whole thing with new wire to the diagram but also thinking I should add this relay. Is that what you did or did you just add the relay to boost the current to the starter? I'm getting current to my keyswitch but then not after it, ordering a replacement now, also replacing the push start button.
I think I found the relay you are using, is this it?
I think I found the relay you are using, is this it?
Ah, so near yet so far. That relay has a 24V coil which requires 24 volts to close its contacts.
You only have 12V from your batteries so, no cigar. You need a relay with a 12V coil. This is what I have for something like $45.00. A little more solid in construction.
I'm getting current to my keyswitch but then not after it, ordering a replacement now, also replacing the push start button.
Be sure you are getting good quality keyswitch and push button as they are mounted outside close to the elements. Another biggy with me, particularly for outside is to coat the exterior electrical contacts with NON-PETROLEUM grease before assembly to eliminate corrosion.
Ah, so near yet so far. That relay has a 24V coil which requires 24 volts to close its contacts.
You only have 12V from your batteries so, no cigar. You need a relay with a 12V coil. This is what I have for something like $45.00. A little more solid in construction.
I'm getting current to my keyswitch but then not after it, ordering a replacement now, also replacing the push start button.
Be sure you are getting good quality keyswitch and push button as they are mounted outside close to the elements. Another biggy with me, particularly for outside is to coat the exterior electrical contacts with NON-PETROLEUM grease before assembly to eliminate corrosion.
Great! Thank you for your quick reply, I have all the parts up on my PC right now. I noticed after I posted the 24v part, thank you for the link to the proper part. You are a champion!
I wish you'd tell my wife some time. I need all the help I can get in that department.
If she can't appreciate your solid wire management, I don't know what to tell ya!
I see your 25amp fuse between the relay and the alternator. is that a blade fuse? do you still have a fuse block on your engine? I'm not exactly sure where in the chain of positive lines it should be, or if it's even the right thing.
I see your 25amp fuse between the relay and the alternator. is that a blade fuse? do you still have a fuse block on your engine? I'm not exactly sure where in the chain of positive lines it should be, or if it's even the right thing.
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Just a glass fuse with a fast blow.
This 25A fuse is the only fuse in the line which takes its power leading from the battery, along the line which supplies the battery from the alternator and up to the 65A relay. Why there is no 50A fuse near the battery to protect the line leading to the alternator is still an unknown after 25 years.
My only defense is that this area is kept clean for observation and minimum risk of a short in this area. Yes, I know I should install a 50A fuse but there's so much maint. to be done before this.
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