Pumping out Hunter 380 Waste Tank - Macerator pump failed.

Jun 1, 2009
1,748
Hunter 49 toronto
@dchipley this the hold tank for the H376, but should be close to yours.

Note the only large exit is from the tank bottom. Entry from side and tank vent on top.
Jim...
I’m not a fan of waste tanks that exit from the bottom. The only time this makes sense is if the tank is above water line (like in lots of beneteau), and they use gravity to dump the tank overboard. This is great in the charter market, but the tanks are much smaller, and take up storage space.
I had a boat with bottom drain, and it tended to permeate the hoses more quickly. Plus, if it’s an aluminum tank, this is a recipie for unhappiness.
My 40.5 was brand new when I had this dip tube problem.
The tanks on my 49 are both poly, and have top discharge. My only problem was that the hoses started to stink, and replaced all of them this past winter. Used the Vetus hose ($$$$), but I’m more that happy with the result .
 
Mar 6, 2008
1,099
Catalina 1999 C36 MKII #1787 Coyote Point Marina, CA.
No Y needed.

Check this link to see why.

410 Owners with Y-Valves for aft head?

Jim...
Jim, I am recommending Y adaptor not Y valve.
The photo shows a Y adaptor in your photo.
However I would not use white PVC, they are prone to cracking. T adaptors are available for marine use.
Visit Sail La Vie | 1999 Catalina 36 MK II read about the macerator installation and view the setup.
In my case it had a PVC T splitter and I replaced it with Y valve, but it will work with just the T splitter.
 
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Likes: JamesG161
May 17, 2004
5,079
Beneteau Oceanis 37 Havre de Grace
why would they even attach the hose to the top of the tank.
Attaching to the top of the tank with a dip tube means one less hole and joint in the bottom of the tank, so less opportunity to leak. It also means there's less hose with effluent sitting in it perpetually, so slightly less chance for smells. It's a tradeoff.
 
Jun 1, 2009
1,748
Hunter 49 toronto
Thank-you - we are going to try the pump out. Worst case no dip tube and I have to insert this hose that looks like it was used in the waste tank. I have a spare macerator pump so I will replace and then rebuild. When we purchased the boat 12 years ago there was damage due to freezing so I had to rebuild the pump and replace the hoses from the tank to the suction and the discharge. there was no damage to the waste tank, luckily. I had to repair damage to the swim platform shower at that time as well. Since then I have always winterized and ensured there was some rv antifreeze in the waste tank come winter
I don’t like the concept of rebuilding Mascerator pumps, for the following reasons:
Firstly, they charge so much for the rebuild kits, the delta between buying a new Jabsco and a brand new pump is about $150. And, the rebuild kit does not include any motor parts
Also, it doesn’t include the part that definitely fails. On the (approx 2005 -2015 onwards), pumps, the long bolts that hold the entire pump together are brass. These corrode, and the whole pump falls apart.
And ,,,, the new stainless bolt kit is $55. Yikes!!

The next issue is that even the tiniest seal gap will stink up your boat. And it’s tough to locate, as the gap is small enough to let “magic fart gas” through, but no liquid.
Next reason…

You have 2 choices….
Option A

Open cardboard box
Take out shiny new pump WItH proper stainless bolts.
Remove old one, which may require percussive techniques

Or…

Option B

Do the same struggle to remove old pump
Rip the thing apart, while plugging nose, opening every hatch on the boat, and not enjoying the “scenery”
Re-assemble (not that much fun if not on a workbench), and pray to the “Gods of Stinky Stuff”, that you have everything perfect.
For the price of 3 bottles of average wine,, I’m going for option A
 
May 27, 2012
23
Hunter 380 Nanaimo, BC; Canada
I don’t like the concept of rebuilding Mascerator pumps, for the following reasons:
Firstly, they charge so much for the rebuild kits, the delta between buying a new Jabsco and a brand new pump is about $150. And, the rebuild kit does not include any motor parts
Also, it doesn’t include the part that definitely fails. On the (approx 2005 -2015 onwards), pumps, the long bolts that hold the entire pump together are brass. These corrode, and the whole pump falls apart.
And ,,,, the new stainless bolt kit is $55. Yikes!!

The next issue is that even the tiniest seal gap will stink up your boat. And it’s tough to locate, as the gap is small enough to let “magic fart gas” through, but no liquid.
Next reason…

You have 2 choices….
Option A

Open cardboard box
Take out shiny new pump WItH proper stainless bolts.
Remove old one, which may require percussive techniques

Or…

Option B

Do the same struggle to remove old pump
Rip the thing apart, while plugging nose, opening every hatch on the boat, and not enjoying the “scenery”
Re-assemble (not that much fun if not on a workbench), and pray to the “Gods of Stinky Stuff”, that you have everything perfect.
For the price of 3 bottles of average wine,, I’m going for option A
In the end I replaced the macerator pump - local chandlery had a great sale on them during their "Pirate Days"