Hi- As we get closer to actually signing on the dotted line, the new question comes up-How do we get her to San Francisco? We spoke to a marine transport company at the Pacific Sail Expo this week and learned that this would be a standard haul up the coast for $1300. We would have to arrange to have the stick pulled and replaced ourselves, hence my question. Does anyone have first-hand experience in pulling the stick on a Vision 32? I know that most yards have experience in this area, but since we don't pull masts every year, and the Vision's mast is a bit different than most, I thought I'd ask. Is there anything special to watch out for? Any problems with the foot of the mast or the step itself? Without spreaders to stop the slide of the sling, what do you do? Does Hunter have any suggestions that anyone is aware of? Thanks!
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J. Hrab
Pulling out the stick
Removing the mast is easier than others as there is no adjustments to be done and less wires to disconnect etc...there is one particularity: the stick is tied from the crane at the point where the two parts are joined; then you have to tie a heavy piece of rope to the boom attachement to prevent it from slipping. It weight some 800 lbs, I've been told but it balances quite well; I have done it myself with one crew. Better double check the exact point where the crane will hook the mast, this is the critical point: it has been two years since. When you replace it, a heavy dose of silicone arounfd the collars aon the deck will prevent any leaks, make sure you also write the connections at the foot of the mast to hook it back in place. I also replaced the antenna and the lights at the top as they were corroded. Easier to do when lying down: also check if you have room to install another hailyard as a spare, I have been told there was room but only after it was back up. J. Hrab
Removing the mast is easier than others as there is no adjustments to be done and less wires to disconnect etc...there is one particularity: the stick is tied from the crane at the point where the two parts are joined; then you have to tie a heavy piece of rope to the boom attachement to prevent it from slipping. It weight some 800 lbs, I've been told but it balances quite well; I have done it myself with one crew. Better double check the exact point where the crane will hook the mast, this is the critical point: it has been two years since. When you replace it, a heavy dose of silicone arounfd the collars aon the deck will prevent any leaks, make sure you also write the connections at the foot of the mast to hook it back in place. I also replaced the antenna and the lights at the top as they were corroded. Easier to do when lying down: also check if you have room to install another hailyard as a spare, I have been told there was room but only after it was back up. J. Hrab
R
Rob Sherrill
Please give some "feed back" when you finsh
This question has been of some concern to me since I bought the Vision two years ago. Not much of a concern, as mine stays in the water and I don't intend on ever having to go through this exercise. Your experience here would be of great interest. Either post it in the forum or email me the results (PLEASE) Thanks
This question has been of some concern to me since I bought the Vision two years ago. Not much of a concern, as mine stays in the water and I don't intend on ever having to go through this exercise. Your experience here would be of great interest. Either post it in the forum or email me the results (PLEASE) Thanks
M
Mike Webster
Pulling the stick!
I agree with J. Hrab. Its a fairly simple job compared to a mast with stays, but the mast is larger than a standard stayed mast, and its weight should be respected. I have moved my Vision 3 times and the following is what I have learned. You will have to arrange to have the boat pulled, the mast unstepped, and everything prepared for shipment at its current marina, arrange a special boat carrier to transport your boat, and arrange for a yard at your new port to receive the boat, re-step the mast, and re-launch your boat. Its all 'time and materials', so the more you do yourself, the more you save. I've always done the prep work, and it has cost an average of $300 on each end for yard work and launch services. Also, you might ask you local yard for the name of a reputable boat transport company. They deal with these guys all of the time, and you can probably trust their recommendation (providing its not their uncle with an old pickup truck and a trailor). From my experiences, I would insist on being there during all phases of the project (not the actual truck trip). There is nothing like the owner being present to insure that things are done correctly. There are also things to consider that you care about more than the yard. The following are my suggestions. Preparing for Transport: 1)Plan on keeping the interior as clear as possible, since workmen will be working inside and around the mast while unstepping the stick. Use old rugs and blankets to protect the floors and upholstery from damage during the move. 2)Remove and fold the sails and pack the hardware in boxes. Mark any lines, electrical connections, and photograph things you may have trouble with during reassembly. 3)Remove the bimini/dodger, including the support tubing, fold the canvas and store inside. Wrap the ends of the support tubes with towels taped in place to protect your interior during transport. A good place to get wrapping material for protection is a carpet store. There will often be scraps of carpeting available for free that can be used for wrapping. 4)Pull all lines lead to the cockpit back to the mast. Run messenger lines, tied off on both ends, when you pull these lines or you will have a heck of a time getting them back under the front window and sea hood during reinstallation. 5)Remove the solid boom vang and boom. Temporarily support the aft end of the boom with the main halyard while removing the vang. This job is much easier with two people, as the boom is long, heavy, and ackward to handle. Reinstall pins and keys in their proper holes so you know where everything goes during reassembly. I left the main sheet assembly attached to the boom and tied it up securely to the boom. Wrap the ends of the boom and vang with old towels/rugs secured with tape to protect the interior of your boat during transport. 6)Secure your anchor. If you plan on leaving it in the anchor well, a little padding couldn't hurt. If you have a large anchor that normally stays on the anchor roller (I have a large Bruce), tie it securely in place, pad it well with towels, and leave it there. I've done it this successfully. 7) The mast is normally pulled while the boat is still in the water, as the boat is sitting much lower then and the mast is easier to handle at this height. Be present if at all possible! Remove the wind vane/wind instruments and securely pack them. If there isn't a connection for the antenna at the masthead, the antenna can normally be reversed and taped to the mast. Bundle up all halyards where they exit the mast and securely tie them to the mast. Wrap lines around the mast and forestay to secure the forestay to the mast. Protect it and the furling equipment well. The mast collar stays on the mast, and should be taped to keep the metal collar from moving. Its probably caulked in place anyway. Most transport companies carry the mast on special supports on the trailor bed itself. I would suggest paying the yard to wrap the mast for transport. It keeps everything cleaner and more secure. 8)Check the main halyard sheaves at the top of the mast at this point. If they need replacement, order them. Its much easier now rather than having to climb the mast later. Garhauer makes some nice metal roller bearing sheaves, but they will probably need a bushing to fit the pin. Garhauer can supply that as well. 9)After the mast is stepped, the mast opening on the deck must be covered with plastic to keep out water in case of rain. Remember that many tapes will leave a residue that can be hard to remove after sitting in the sun for as little as a few days. Be prepared to deal with that. This includes taping around the mast. 10)You may now start stowing items in the boat. I would do this myself and not leave it to the yard. Many yard workers are not as careful as you would like, and I have had minor damage from the way things are placed in the boat for transport. Double protect everything where it rests against anything in the boat. Remember that hundreds of miles of travel by truck will cause a lot of vibration that can leave rub marks or damage that are hard to deal with later. The boom can rest on the step where you first enter the boat, and go thru into the forward v-birth area, but should to be wrapped well to protect everything. I would also tie the boom down so it can't move around. I haven't used a transport company that could haul the boom on the trailor outside the boat. 11)If the boat is pulled and stored on stands waiting for the transport truck, make sure the yard places the stands under the sling support areas. These areas are well supported inside the hull and offer proper support for the boat. There is a large area under the head that is NOT supported by stringers inside the boat. If you see dimpling of the hull under the support stands, the stands should be moved. This is also why you should be on site while loading the boat onto the transport trailer. You want to make sure the support stands on the trailer are supporting the boat in the correct locations. Preparing for Re-launch: 1)Be prepared for a very dirty boat. Your boat will be directly behind the exhaust stacks for the truck, and there will probably be diesel exhaust contamination, road dirt, and maybe even some leaves and small tree limbs on your boat. It will need a thorough cleaning. 2)Inspect your boat when it arrives at the yard, both inside and out. Have a camera, note any damage and take pictures. The yard is not responsible for transport damage. Most transport companies are very responsible and are careful with your baby, but things can and do happen. That is what insurance is for. Make sure your transport company is insured. Ask to see insurance papers before your boat is loaded. 3)Remove most of the items stored in the boat so the yard workers can get in to work on re-stepping the mast. The rear cabin area also has to be cleared so that the thru-hulls can be accessed for launching. 4)Insist on being present when they launch your boat! Again, some yard workers are not as responsible as others. You want to make sure its launched properly, all thru-hulls are open, there are no leaks on any fittings, and that the boat is securely tied up at a dock and adequately protected by fenders. One yard almost sunk my boat and then blamed me, even though I was't allowed to be present for the launch. You don't need that headache. 5)Have a list prepared of all items you and the yard should do before launch and restepping the mast, but consider it YOUR responsibility, not the yards, to insure they happen properly. 6)Before restepping the mast, make sure the wind vane/wind instruments are installed, the antenna installed properly, and the mast lights are working. Change the main halyard sheaves at this time. This is the time to replace them if necessary, not after the mast is restepped. Clean and lube the sailtrack with something like Sailkote. Also, break loose the metal mast collar from the old caulking, thoroughly clean off the old caulking so new caulking can be applied. Silicone caulking does not seal to already cured silicone, so a good cleaning job is mandatory. 7)During restepping, a little SailKote or silicone spray on the mast compression ring really helps it move into proper position on the mast. Don't overdo it. Tighten the mast collar evenly until you have an equal gap between the collar on the boat and the mast collar all around. If the compression ring was installed with a lubricant, be carefull because you can tighten the collars down completely, but are actually squeezing the compression ring out the bottom. Tighten until about a 1/4" gap remains all around. Caulk around the top of the compression ring for a water tight seal. 8)Install the headstay, boom, and solid vang, rerun your lines. Aren't you glad you installed those messenger lines? 9)Clean and wax your boat. This probably isn't a comprehensive list, but it will get you started. Remember, its your boat, and no one else will cares about it as much as you. Good luck.
I agree with J. Hrab. Its a fairly simple job compared to a mast with stays, but the mast is larger than a standard stayed mast, and its weight should be respected. I have moved my Vision 3 times and the following is what I have learned. You will have to arrange to have the boat pulled, the mast unstepped, and everything prepared for shipment at its current marina, arrange a special boat carrier to transport your boat, and arrange for a yard at your new port to receive the boat, re-step the mast, and re-launch your boat. Its all 'time and materials', so the more you do yourself, the more you save. I've always done the prep work, and it has cost an average of $300 on each end for yard work and launch services. Also, you might ask you local yard for the name of a reputable boat transport company. They deal with these guys all of the time, and you can probably trust their recommendation (providing its not their uncle with an old pickup truck and a trailor). From my experiences, I would insist on being there during all phases of the project (not the actual truck trip). There is nothing like the owner being present to insure that things are done correctly. There are also things to consider that you care about more than the yard. The following are my suggestions. Preparing for Transport: 1)Plan on keeping the interior as clear as possible, since workmen will be working inside and around the mast while unstepping the stick. Use old rugs and blankets to protect the floors and upholstery from damage during the move. 2)Remove and fold the sails and pack the hardware in boxes. Mark any lines, electrical connections, and photograph things you may have trouble with during reassembly. 3)Remove the bimini/dodger, including the support tubing, fold the canvas and store inside. Wrap the ends of the support tubes with towels taped in place to protect your interior during transport. A good place to get wrapping material for protection is a carpet store. There will often be scraps of carpeting available for free that can be used for wrapping. 4)Pull all lines lead to the cockpit back to the mast. Run messenger lines, tied off on both ends, when you pull these lines or you will have a heck of a time getting them back under the front window and sea hood during reinstallation. 5)Remove the solid boom vang and boom. Temporarily support the aft end of the boom with the main halyard while removing the vang. This job is much easier with two people, as the boom is long, heavy, and ackward to handle. Reinstall pins and keys in their proper holes so you know where everything goes during reassembly. I left the main sheet assembly attached to the boom and tied it up securely to the boom. Wrap the ends of the boom and vang with old towels/rugs secured with tape to protect the interior of your boat during transport. 6)Secure your anchor. If you plan on leaving it in the anchor well, a little padding couldn't hurt. If you have a large anchor that normally stays on the anchor roller (I have a large Bruce), tie it securely in place, pad it well with towels, and leave it there. I've done it this successfully. 7) The mast is normally pulled while the boat is still in the water, as the boat is sitting much lower then and the mast is easier to handle at this height. Be present if at all possible! Remove the wind vane/wind instruments and securely pack them. If there isn't a connection for the antenna at the masthead, the antenna can normally be reversed and taped to the mast. Bundle up all halyards where they exit the mast and securely tie them to the mast. Wrap lines around the mast and forestay to secure the forestay to the mast. Protect it and the furling equipment well. The mast collar stays on the mast, and should be taped to keep the metal collar from moving. Its probably caulked in place anyway. Most transport companies carry the mast on special supports on the trailor bed itself. I would suggest paying the yard to wrap the mast for transport. It keeps everything cleaner and more secure. 8)Check the main halyard sheaves at the top of the mast at this point. If they need replacement, order them. Its much easier now rather than having to climb the mast later. Garhauer makes some nice metal roller bearing sheaves, but they will probably need a bushing to fit the pin. Garhauer can supply that as well. 9)After the mast is stepped, the mast opening on the deck must be covered with plastic to keep out water in case of rain. Remember that many tapes will leave a residue that can be hard to remove after sitting in the sun for as little as a few days. Be prepared to deal with that. This includes taping around the mast. 10)You may now start stowing items in the boat. I would do this myself and not leave it to the yard. Many yard workers are not as careful as you would like, and I have had minor damage from the way things are placed in the boat for transport. Double protect everything where it rests against anything in the boat. Remember that hundreds of miles of travel by truck will cause a lot of vibration that can leave rub marks or damage that are hard to deal with later. The boom can rest on the step where you first enter the boat, and go thru into the forward v-birth area, but should to be wrapped well to protect everything. I would also tie the boom down so it can't move around. I haven't used a transport company that could haul the boom on the trailor outside the boat. 11)If the boat is pulled and stored on stands waiting for the transport truck, make sure the yard places the stands under the sling support areas. These areas are well supported inside the hull and offer proper support for the boat. There is a large area under the head that is NOT supported by stringers inside the boat. If you see dimpling of the hull under the support stands, the stands should be moved. This is also why you should be on site while loading the boat onto the transport trailer. You want to make sure the support stands on the trailer are supporting the boat in the correct locations. Preparing for Re-launch: 1)Be prepared for a very dirty boat. Your boat will be directly behind the exhaust stacks for the truck, and there will probably be diesel exhaust contamination, road dirt, and maybe even some leaves and small tree limbs on your boat. It will need a thorough cleaning. 2)Inspect your boat when it arrives at the yard, both inside and out. Have a camera, note any damage and take pictures. The yard is not responsible for transport damage. Most transport companies are very responsible and are careful with your baby, but things can and do happen. That is what insurance is for. Make sure your transport company is insured. Ask to see insurance papers before your boat is loaded. 3)Remove most of the items stored in the boat so the yard workers can get in to work on re-stepping the mast. The rear cabin area also has to be cleared so that the thru-hulls can be accessed for launching. 4)Insist on being present when they launch your boat! Again, some yard workers are not as responsible as others. You want to make sure its launched properly, all thru-hulls are open, there are no leaks on any fittings, and that the boat is securely tied up at a dock and adequately protected by fenders. One yard almost sunk my boat and then blamed me, even though I was't allowed to be present for the launch. You don't need that headache. 5)Have a list prepared of all items you and the yard should do before launch and restepping the mast, but consider it YOUR responsibility, not the yards, to insure they happen properly. 6)Before restepping the mast, make sure the wind vane/wind instruments are installed, the antenna installed properly, and the mast lights are working. Change the main halyard sheaves at this time. This is the time to replace them if necessary, not after the mast is restepped. Clean and lube the sailtrack with something like Sailkote. Also, break loose the metal mast collar from the old caulking, thoroughly clean off the old caulking so new caulking can be applied. Silicone caulking does not seal to already cured silicone, so a good cleaning job is mandatory. 7)During restepping, a little SailKote or silicone spray on the mast compression ring really helps it move into proper position on the mast. Don't overdo it. Tighten the mast collar evenly until you have an equal gap between the collar on the boat and the mast collar all around. If the compression ring was installed with a lubricant, be carefull because you can tighten the collars down completely, but are actually squeezing the compression ring out the bottom. Tighten until about a 1/4" gap remains all around. Caulk around the top of the compression ring for a water tight seal. 8)Install the headstay, boom, and solid vang, rerun your lines. Aren't you glad you installed those messenger lines? 9)Clean and wax your boat. This probably isn't a comprehensive list, but it will get you started. Remember, its your boat, and no one else will cares about it as much as you. Good luck.
T
Tom Boles
Mike-Stick removal comments are great!
Mike- Thanks! I'm overwhelmed! There are LOTS of things to think about & do for such an endevour, and you've helped a bunch! I'll look over what you have and don't be surprised if you get a question or two. If we do end up with this Vison 32, I WILL post comments on the whole experience, from the first contact with the Broker to the smash of the bottle! Thanks again!
Mike- Thanks! I'm overwhelmed! There are LOTS of things to think about & do for such an endevour, and you've helped a bunch! I'll look over what you have and don't be surprised if you get a question or two. If we do end up with this Vison 32, I WILL post comments on the whole experience, from the first contact with the Broker to the smash of the bottle! Thanks again!
T
Tom Boles
OK, I'm getting serious now...
Mike- Looks like we might be transporting the boat overland after all! I've got some questions, and I'm trying to get them together to post, Possibly later today. It IS a little nerve-wracking, thinking about buying one's first big boat and then having to tear it partially apart and watch as it gets hoisted on a truck...
Mike- Looks like we might be transporting the boat overland after all! I've got some questions, and I'm trying to get them together to post, Possibly later today. It IS a little nerve-wracking, thinking about buying one's first big boat and then having to tear it partially apart and watch as it gets hoisted on a truck...
T
Tom Boles
Mike, here are some questions...
I don't mean to sound too anal about this, but It's a new-to-us boat, in a city I don't live in and I don't have unlimited time or money. I also don't know a soul to ask for help. I'll need to either drive or fly down (SFO to San Diego) to take care of everything (I share the idea one MUST be there when the stick gets pulled). So: 1)Your Labor: How long does it take for you to do all the work you talk about? 2)Clearing hardware from the deck/mast/boom. What hardware are you talking about removing? ? How big do the boxes need to be? I am thinking of sending the Main in to be cleaned by Sailbrite in Penn. How big does the box need to be for the main. Can one person do this? 3)Messenger lines, Will 1/8” nylon be ok? What about good old closeline? 4)Main sheet hardware. Could I leave it on the boat? How much did you leave on Vs remove? 5)Anchor location: Do you mount your Bruce on the stock anchor roller? 6)Mast Collar: I think the collar unbolts from a fitting in the deck is that correct? Or is it simply clamping the deck between the caulked piece and a clamp ring? 7)Mast Sheeves: Do you remember sizes at all? I’d like to have this stuff ordered in advance as the haul to launch is only going to be a few days, one or two at best. 8)Tape used on the outside of the boat. 3m seems to make a tape that is “real good” for this application. Don’t recall the number. Do you have any recommendations? 9)Sling/support prop locations. Where are these areas? Are they marked? 10)Mast ring Calking. What do you use here? Marine silicone seal or something else? THANKS!
I don't mean to sound too anal about this, but It's a new-to-us boat, in a city I don't live in and I don't have unlimited time or money. I also don't know a soul to ask for help. I'll need to either drive or fly down (SFO to San Diego) to take care of everything (I share the idea one MUST be there when the stick gets pulled). So: 1)Your Labor: How long does it take for you to do all the work you talk about? 2)Clearing hardware from the deck/mast/boom. What hardware are you talking about removing? ? How big do the boxes need to be? I am thinking of sending the Main in to be cleaned by Sailbrite in Penn. How big does the box need to be for the main. Can one person do this? 3)Messenger lines, Will 1/8” nylon be ok? What about good old closeline? 4)Main sheet hardware. Could I leave it on the boat? How much did you leave on Vs remove? 5)Anchor location: Do you mount your Bruce on the stock anchor roller? 6)Mast Collar: I think the collar unbolts from a fitting in the deck is that correct? Or is it simply clamping the deck between the caulked piece and a clamp ring? 7)Mast Sheeves: Do you remember sizes at all? I’d like to have this stuff ordered in advance as the haul to launch is only going to be a few days, one or two at best. 8)Tape used on the outside of the boat. 3m seems to make a tape that is “real good” for this application. Don’t recall the number. Do you have any recommendations? 9)Sling/support prop locations. Where are these areas? Are they marked? 10)Mast ring Calking. What do you use here? Marine silicone seal or something else? THANKS!
J
J. Hrab
First thing to do is relax !
Pulling out the stick from a Vision-32 is much easier than any other boat. I have done it in one morning with the help of another crew. It is very straightforward as there is much less to move than other boats. May I offer a little suggestion: the first time I took mine out I was very nervous. A friend of mine suggested I take 20 minutes to think things out and take a look at the whole thing before touching anything: I only took his advice the second time and it worked. Once you remove the sails, the boom gets unhooked easely: tape it along the mast, so you will not need to remove the reef lines. I gather that you are moving it by truck and putting the mast under the boat to travel. Sling marks are well indicated. Main sail is large therefore it will take major space. The mast is heavy therefore use an extra strong line to haul it out and specially the line holding the crane line in place (the one that you hook at the boom attachement to prevent it from slipping. You will get a good laugh at other boats that carry all those complicated lines. Yoy have the easiest boat ever to handle such a task. Gook luck with the whole thing, Cheers, Jean Hrab
Pulling out the stick from a Vision-32 is much easier than any other boat. I have done it in one morning with the help of another crew. It is very straightforward as there is much less to move than other boats. May I offer a little suggestion: the first time I took mine out I was very nervous. A friend of mine suggested I take 20 minutes to think things out and take a look at the whole thing before touching anything: I only took his advice the second time and it worked. Once you remove the sails, the boom gets unhooked easely: tape it along the mast, so you will not need to remove the reef lines. I gather that you are moving it by truck and putting the mast under the boat to travel. Sling marks are well indicated. Main sail is large therefore it will take major space. The mast is heavy therefore use an extra strong line to haul it out and specially the line holding the crane line in place (the one that you hook at the boom attachement to prevent it from slipping. You will get a good laugh at other boats that carry all those complicated lines. Yoy have the easiest boat ever to handle such a task. Gook luck with the whole thing, Cheers, Jean Hrab
T
Tom Boles
Jean- You are right. Breath first, think then act!
Thanks for your comments. I know this will all work out, especially with the help you & Mike and others on the board have offered. I'll probably have pictures of the process when it's over, so we can have an entry in the project forum on pulling & stepping the Mast on a V32. Almost There!
Thanks for your comments. I know this will all work out, especially with the help you & Mike and others on the board have offered. I'll probably have pictures of the process when it's over, so we can have an entry in the project forum on pulling & stepping the Mast on a V32. Almost There!
T
Tom Boles
Have you consider sailing the sailboat?
Tom: Have you considered sailing her up the coast? I have a friend who's son does this as a delivery capt. He lives in SD and makes trips up the coast. If you are interested in this approach, let me know.
Tom: Have you considered sailing her up the coast? I have a friend who's son does this as a delivery capt. He lives in SD and makes trips up the coast. If you are interested in this approach, let me know.
D
Doug T.
Deliveries
There are lots of people that do deliveries like that. It might be cheaper than hauling the boat, unstepping (etc.), transporting, restepping (etc.) and splashing. And if you have some spare time, you can go along for the ride, either all the way, or part-way.
There are lots of people that do deliveries like that. It might be cheaper than hauling the boat, unstepping (etc.), transporting, restepping (etc.) and splashing. And if you have some spare time, you can go along for the ride, either all the way, or part-way.
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