I am doing a haul out this weekend to do a bottom job. While I have the boat out I am replacing the old packing gland with the new PSS dripless carbon graphite seal. I have to pull the shaft and I was wondering if there are specific bearings or bushings that need inspecting and/or lubricating before I reinstall the shaft. Any advice??? My boat is a 1987 Hunter 31. Thanks, Jerry Smith Mobile, AL
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Check your cutlass!
Jerry: Before you loosen anything up, check your cutlass bearing. It is on the strut just forward of the shaft. They cost about $40-50. You may want to change it out if it has not been done. I just replaced mine for the first time 2 years ago.
Jerry: Before you loosen anything up, check your cutlass bearing. It is on the strut just forward of the shaft. They cost about $40-50. You may want to change it out if it has not been done. I just replaced mine for the first time 2 years ago.
Shaft Seal Burp
Just in case you didn't know, when the boat is put in the water the PSS shaft seal is supposed to be burped (open up the bellows a tad to let water fill in) as this is what keeps the seal cool. In a few years the shaft seal will start to leak a bit so the bellows will have to be tightened a tad. This is because the bellows takes on a "set" after a while and looses it's tension or compression. Recommend getting some "Lanocote" (see link) and putting it on the bolts and flange connection. Use new stainless tie wire on the flange bolts and set screws. If you put in a new cutlass bearing put some Lanocote on the set screws. Good project - did mine years ago and really glad I did. Helps to keep water out of the pan under the engine and keep the engine from rusting.
Just in case you didn't know, when the boat is put in the water the PSS shaft seal is supposed to be burped (open up the bellows a tad to let water fill in) as this is what keeps the seal cool. In a few years the shaft seal will start to leak a bit so the bellows will have to be tightened a tad. This is because the bellows takes on a "set" after a while and looses it's tension or compression. Recommend getting some "Lanocote" (see link) and putting it on the bolts and flange connection. Use new stainless tie wire on the flange bolts and set screws. If you put in a new cutlass bearing put some Lanocote on the set screws. Good project - did mine years ago and really glad I did. Helps to keep water out of the pan under the engine and keep the engine from rusting.
Dripless Packing
Jerry, did you see my comments under "Dripless Packing"? Jerry, I replaced my stuffing box two years ago with the PSS Dripless Seal. The problem I had was the flange on the end of the prop shaft was stuck very tight. My boat (Hunter 37C) is a 1984 model and the flange was probably not removed since the boat was built. The accepted procedure is to place a socket between the flange on the engine and the flange on the shaft. Then, with longer bolts, pull the two flanges together. This forces the shaft out of the flange. However, in my case, I couldn't tighten the bolts tight enough to move the shaft. I had to alternately hit the flange with a hammer and tighten the bolts. The space was limited so I couldn't swing the hammer very far (get the picture?). I repeated this process for two days, but finally got the flange off. That was the only problem. After that the job goes very easy. In my research, the PSS Drippless Seal was by far the most recommended by everybody and has worked perfectly for me. I highly recommend it.
Jerry, did you see my comments under "Dripless Packing"? Jerry, I replaced my stuffing box two years ago with the PSS Dripless Seal. The problem I had was the flange on the end of the prop shaft was stuck very tight. My boat (Hunter 37C) is a 1984 model and the flange was probably not removed since the boat was built. The accepted procedure is to place a socket between the flange on the engine and the flange on the shaft. Then, with longer bolts, pull the two flanges together. This forces the shaft out of the flange. However, in my case, I couldn't tighten the bolts tight enough to move the shaft. I had to alternately hit the flange with a hammer and tighten the bolts. The space was limited so I couldn't swing the hammer very far (get the picture?). I repeated this process for two days, but finally got the flange off. That was the only problem. After that the job goes very easy. In my research, the PSS Drippless Seal was by far the most recommended by everybody and has worked perfectly for me. I highly recommend it.
Reply to Bob
Bob, I did see your response. I started the process of removing the shaft yesterday and experienced some problems with the flange also. Fortunately the bolt tightening and socket process is working but very slow. I found that after tightening the longer bolts a few turns, you must remove the bolts and add washers so the bolts do not hit he rear of the transmission. The shaft is moving, and as you experienced, the space for a hammer is very small. I can not believe that the flange is still so hard to remove even after it has moved a half an inch or so... I will continue the process today and hopefully get the flange off. Thanks for the comments... Jerry
Bob, I did see your response. I started the process of removing the shaft yesterday and experienced some problems with the flange also. Fortunately the bolt tightening and socket process is working but very slow. I found that after tightening the longer bolts a few turns, you must remove the bolts and add washers so the bolts do not hit he rear of the transmission. The shaft is moving, and as you experienced, the space for a hammer is very small. I can not believe that the flange is still so hard to remove even after it has moved a half an inch or so... I will continue the process today and hopefully get the flange off. Thanks for the comments... Jerry
Reply to John Nantz
John, Thanks for the advice. I don't recall the instructions talking about "burping" the seal. This makes perfect sense and I will do so. I am going to check the local marinas and boat supply stores for the Lanocote today. Hopefully they will stock it because I don't really have time to order it. Thanks for your advice... Jerry
John, Thanks for the advice. I don't recall the instructions talking about "burping" the seal. This makes perfect sense and I will do so. I am going to check the local marinas and boat supply stores for the Lanocote today. Hopefully they will stock it because I don't really have time to order it. Thanks for your advice... Jerry
Reply to Steve...
Steve, Thanks for the advice. I hauled the boat yesterday and had the people at the marina check the cutlass. They said that it was in great shape. Without your advice I would have probably pulled the shaft without knowing to check the cutlass first. Thanks, Jerry
Steve, Thanks for the advice. I hauled the boat yesterday and had the people at the marina check the cutlass. They said that it was in great shape. Without your advice I would have probably pulled the shaft without knowing to check the cutlass first. Thanks, Jerry
Hammer Altermative
Just an idea but there is an alternative to using the hammer on the flange. Since the boat if out of the water you're probably going to replace the zincs anyway. What about geting the zincs and put them on the shaft inside the boat with some washers between them so they don't fit tight but would just slide? Now the zincs can be slid down the shaft battering ram style to impact the flange. This technique would put a uniform force on the flange instead of a one-sided force that a hammer would provide.
Just an idea but there is an alternative to using the hammer on the flange. Since the boat if out of the water you're probably going to replace the zincs anyway. What about geting the zincs and put them on the shaft inside the boat with some washers between them so they don't fit tight but would just slide? Now the zincs can be slid down the shaft battering ram style to impact the flange. This technique would put a uniform force on the flange instead of a one-sided force that a hammer would provide.
Shaft Question
If it is that hard to get the flange off, how do you plan to get it back on way back there behind the engine?
If it is that hard to get the flange off, how do you plan to get it back on way back there behind the engine?
Re-installing flange
After the flange has been removed, and both it and the shaft are cleaned, the flange will slide back on with only hand pressure. No problem.
After the flange has been removed, and both it and the shaft are cleaned, the flange will slide back on with only hand pressure. No problem.
The flange is OFF...
I soaked the flange with liquid wrench overnight. Today when I returned there was no need to hammer. I also added large nuts as spacers behind the longer flange bolts which made the bolt length adjustable. This worked very well and the flange came right off. Thanks to everyone for all the help... Jerry
I soaked the flange with liquid wrench overnight. Today when I returned there was no need to hammer. I also added large nuts as spacers behind the longer flange bolts which made the bolt length adjustable. This worked very well and the flange came right off. Thanks to everyone for all the help... Jerry
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