Pulling in new wires

[TherapyVA]

I'm wanting to add a powered anchor winch on the bow of my Hunter 33.5. I was thinking I could use the running light wires to pull in new wiring for the winch (and running lights as well). Has anyone here tried this? I'm not sure if the wiring is free between the hull and cabin, or if it's sealed in place with foam. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[navigator97]

On my 1990 H-33.5 I have run wires for a lighter loads along the port side from the power distribution panel area (actually from an small additional circuit breaker panel under the Nav Station), up to the forward end of the settee and past the vanaty area into the Vee Berth area. In the vee berth it was to add a 12Vdc outlet to run a C-PAP Machine at night, and at the forward end of the seetee it was to cross over to the forward dining bench seat to add in a sump conteol and sump pump for the shower drain and Icebox drain.

There is a wiring flexible conduit that runs behind the seetee and continues forward. I used a "snake" wire to pass thru there and then used that to pull my new wires thru. I dont know if there is enough room to pass thru wire sizes adaquate for an anchor windless.

Check it out and good luck.

 

[Maine Sail]

I'm wanting to add a powered anchor winch on the bow of my Hunter 33.5. I was thinking I could use the running light wires to pull in new wiring for the winch (and running lights as well). Has anyone here tried this? I'm not sure if the wiring is free between the hull and cabin, or if it's sealed in place with foam. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

You will be pulling wires on the order of 1/0 or larger. Be sure your messenger can handle them..

 

[Steve Dion]

Have you considered putting a battery up in the v-berth to eliminate the potential of add 70 or so feet of 2/0 or larger wire. This wire runs about $10-12/ft. If the battery is forward all you need is a charging circuit (smaller wire).

 

[TherapyVA]

Thanks all!

I appreciate the feedback from everyone. I think I'm going go with Steve's suggestion and install a battery at the bow and and hook it up to a solar charger I salvaged from my old '69 Bristol 24. I'll let you know how it turns out. - Thanks again.

 

[artboas]

Battery not a good idea

I appreciate the feedback from everyone. I think I'm going go with Steve's suggestion and install a battery at the bow and and hook it up to a solar charger I salvaged from my old '69 Bristol 24. I'll let you know how it turns out. - Thanks again.

Most often, they use a separate battery for a thruster, but not for windlass.
Here are the drawbacks:
You need to charge this battery. Usually people use an echo charger, which is limited to 15 Amps.
If you're anchored with maximim rode out, you'll be surprised how easilly you can flatten a battery which is 1 or 2 seasons old.
Speaking for myself, I've gone into anchorage, Where I've had to set & reset several times. Now imagine doing this at night with your battery winding down.
People use external batteries for thrusters as they assume the duty cycle is low, and if the battery dies, its not tragic.
How are you going to get your anchor up if the battery flattens.

The correct install is from the house bank.
You will have the engine running while anchoring, which will be recharging at min 80 amps; not 15 as per echo charge. You also have the full capacity of your house bank to use.

 

[Rick Sylvester]

Nah, $5 - $6/ft. for 2/0

Have you considered putting a battery up in the v-berth to eliminate the potential of add 70 or so feet of 2/0 or larger wire. This wire runs about $10-12/ft. If the battery is forward all you need is a charging circuit (smaller wire).

seems to be the norm depending on how many feet you want.

Still, your point is well taken.