I am thinking about installing a PSS shaft seal over the winter. The shaft on our 1989 Catalina 30 is 1 " in diameter (I think) but I don't know the dimension of the stern tube (what is this anyway) . Does anyone know what is the dimension of this tube? The price of the PSS shaft seal is under $200 but how much is the installation ? or can I do it myself. Any info would be great. Thanks CM
PSS shaft seal
- Thread starter cmorin
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This is in the archives....
I had the yard do mine(87') only because they were replacing the shaft and the cutlass bearing at the time. If the shaft is "new" condition and you can get the flange off you can do it yourself. Because of the age of your boat I would suspect, if it's the original shaft, you'll have no such luck. The flange will probably be frozen to the shaft and the amount of time and labor involved to get it off would run more than buying a new bronze shaft(but get a quote from your yard first). If that's the case you might as well do the cutlass bearing while your at it. But if you've got the time, and the shaft is in "new" condition, buy a can of liquid wrench and go for it. Hopefully you'll have the same luck as the guy in the link!
I had the yard do mine(87') only because they were replacing the shaft and the cutlass bearing at the time. If the shaft is "new" condition and you can get the flange off you can do it yourself. Because of the age of your boat I would suspect, if it's the original shaft, you'll have no such luck. The flange will probably be frozen to the shaft and the amount of time and labor involved to get it off would run more than buying a new bronze shaft(but get a quote from your yard first). If that's the case you might as well do the cutlass bearing while your at it. But if you've got the time, and the shaft is in "new" condition, buy a can of liquid wrench and go for it. Hopefully you'll have the same luck as the guy in the link!
I did mine myself on a 86 catalina 30. Look on the International Catalina 30 web site for instructions on how to change the cutlass bearing. The cutlass bearing change was the hard part of the job. Make sure you have the right tools to press out the old and press in the new bearing! I think the stern tube is the tube that the prop shaft fits through. You need this dimension cause the rubber boot from the PSS shaft seal fits over this. You should also become familiar with shaft alignment because after removing the shaft it may need to be re-aligned. I was lucky and did not need to do this step. When all was complete it was worth it cause you don't have to mess with that stupid packing nut. Good luck.
Gore GFO Packing Is Much Easier...
I installed a PSS on my C-36 and although the seal worked fine it wound up costing me a lot more than the price of the seal. On an 89 the flange and prop shaft WILL be very rusted together and very hard to get apart. It took me a full day with PB Blaster and a home made press to get the flange off the shaft. When I finally got it off the PSS did install fine. I didn't realize the layer of rust inside the flange that I broke free was enough "lost meat" to ruin my coupling & shaft over time. After installing the PSS & running the engine for about 15 hours a noticable vibration started that was never there before. To make a long story short the rust that broke free between the shaft & coupling was just enough to make the fit of coupling / shaft loose by probably .002 of an inch or so. In 15 hours it wore out both parts and was continuing to get worse. So in the end I to replaced not only the PSS but the prop shaft and the coupling (the coupling must be "faced" to the shaft so always buy together). Catalina did make me a new shaft & coupling for about $185.00 (not bad compared to H&H propeller $527.00) but dropping the rudder, and an additional haul, block, launch and R&R ran about $575.00. On my new boat a C-310 I chose to install Gore GFO packing (see ralated link)and I can say it works as well as the PSS only cleaner. I don't have the Graphite spin off line around my stuffing box and it does not drip or get hot! This stuff is great... I'll take $15.00 of GFO packing over the price I paid converting to a PSS any day!!!!
I installed a PSS on my C-36 and although the seal worked fine it wound up costing me a lot more than the price of the seal. On an 89 the flange and prop shaft WILL be very rusted together and very hard to get apart. It took me a full day with PB Blaster and a home made press to get the flange off the shaft. When I finally got it off the PSS did install fine. I didn't realize the layer of rust inside the flange that I broke free was enough "lost meat" to ruin my coupling & shaft over time. After installing the PSS & running the engine for about 15 hours a noticable vibration started that was never there before. To make a long story short the rust that broke free between the shaft & coupling was just enough to make the fit of coupling / shaft loose by probably .002 of an inch or so. In 15 hours it wore out both parts and was continuing to get worse. So in the end I to replaced not only the PSS but the prop shaft and the coupling (the coupling must be "faced" to the shaft so always buy together). Catalina did make me a new shaft & coupling for about $185.00 (not bad compared to H&H propeller $527.00) but dropping the rudder, and an additional haul, block, launch and R&R ran about $575.00. On my new boat a C-310 I chose to install Gore GFO packing (see ralated link)and I can say it works as well as the PSS only cleaner. I don't have the Graphite spin off line around my stuffing box and it does not drip or get hot! This stuff is great... I'll take $15.00 of GFO packing over the price I paid converting to a PSS any day!!!!
Dripless or Repack ?
All good information, I just need to make up my mind. Can I inspect the shaft and determine if it will be difficult before getting into it ? What should I look for ? I kind of like the idea of repacking with Gore GFO. This sounds easier and less potential of having to replace more of the system. Where can I read up on repacking the stuffing box? Thanks for all of your ideas. CM
All good information, I just need to make up my mind. Can I inspect the shaft and determine if it will be difficult before getting into it ? What should I look for ? I kind of like the idea of repacking with Gore GFO. This sounds easier and less potential of having to replace more of the system. Where can I read up on repacking the stuffing box? Thanks for all of your ideas. CM
Packing question
I've followed most of the debates between advocates of the PSS shaft seal and dripless packing material. There is one thing I haven't seen addressed. Does the Gore GFO or other dripless packing need to be replaced at regular intervals? Or is it "set it and forget it like the PSS seal?
I've followed most of the debates between advocates of the PSS shaft seal and dripless packing material. There is one thing I haven't seen addressed. Does the Gore GFO or other dripless packing need to be replaced at regular intervals? Or is it "set it and forget it like the PSS seal?
The Folks At Gore Told ME...
That in my application with a such slow turning shaft and less that 100 hours per year I was told it should last 8 to 10 years minimum! I plan on replacing every three to four just because it's easy and cheap. It takes me about 15 minutes to change the packing so why not? The toughest part is getting the old stuff out but with the right pics (I have a set of MAC Tools pics)it's not very hard. My boat has a 1 inch shaft so the trick I use to cut the new rings is a piece of 1 inch o.d. stainless steel pipe from a dodger frame. I went to my local canvas guy and he gave me a scrap piece about 12 inches long Make sure you use a set of callipers to double check the outside diameter of your shaft vs. the cutting pipe you plan on using. To make the new rings I wrap the new packing tightly around the 1 inch stainless pipe, and while holding it taught, slice it at a 45 degree angle with a new razor blade. I repaet this 3 times for my three rings and they fit perfectly! It really makes the job so much easier to cut the rings on a seperate piece of pipe plus you don't run the risk of scoring the prop shaft with the razor blade.
That in my application with a such slow turning shaft and less that 100 hours per year I was told it should last 8 to 10 years minimum! I plan on replacing every three to four just because it's easy and cheap. It takes me about 15 minutes to change the packing so why not? The toughest part is getting the old stuff out but with the right pics (I have a set of MAC Tools pics)it's not very hard. My boat has a 1 inch shaft so the trick I use to cut the new rings is a piece of 1 inch o.d. stainless steel pipe from a dodger frame. I went to my local canvas guy and he gave me a scrap piece about 12 inches long Make sure you use a set of callipers to double check the outside diameter of your shaft vs. the cutting pipe you plan on using. To make the new rings I wrap the new packing tightly around the 1 inch stainless pipe, and while holding it taught, slice it at a 45 degree angle with a new razor blade. I repaet this 3 times for my three rings and they fit perfectly! It really makes the job so much easier to cut the rings on a seperate piece of pipe plus you don't run the risk of scoring the prop shaft with the razor blade.
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