Has anyone converted from their stock shaft seal to a PSS dripless system? If so what is your opinion of the installation and performance? I'm going to haul out soon and was thinking of converting over. I have a Beneteau First 35s5. Thanks for any input!
PSS Shaft Seal Packless Sealing Systems
- Thread starter Capt.Dave
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Shaft seal
I installed one on my B361 last winter and have been quite pleased with the it. Bilge completely dry. Installation was straight forward, but here are a few tips. Wait to order your shaft seal until you have cut off the old one. The shaft tube on my boat had a "step down" where the old seal actually sat, which changed the size of the PSS bellows tube needed. You'll need a sturdy gear puller to remove the hub that holds the shaft and attaches it to the transmission, and a large pipe wrench to hold the hub steady while you crank down on the puller. It was a bear to get the shaft seperated from the hub, but once off things went well. One suggestion some have made here is to install a shaft zinc next to the sealing ring, keeping if from potentially slipping forward. If you measure right in the first place and have the right tools, it's pretty easy.
I installed one on my B361 last winter and have been quite pleased with the it. Bilge completely dry. Installation was straight forward, but here are a few tips. Wait to order your shaft seal until you have cut off the old one. The shaft tube on my boat had a "step down" where the old seal actually sat, which changed the size of the PSS bellows tube needed. You'll need a sturdy gear puller to remove the hub that holds the shaft and attaches it to the transmission, and a large pipe wrench to hold the hub steady while you crank down on the puller. It was a bear to get the shaft seperated from the hub, but once off things went well. One suggestion some have made here is to install a shaft zinc next to the sealing ring, keeping if from potentially slipping forward. If you measure right in the first place and have the right tools, it's pretty easy.
PSS Assistance
I have installed several of these PSS's. The main difficulty is removing the shaft coupler. If you have time, spray the coupler shaft area with liquid wrench or wd40 well before trying to remove the unit. The boat has to be out of the water for installation. I know this sounds stupid but you never know! Disconnect the shaft coupler from the transmission flange. Push the shaft aft. Check to see if the coupler is held on with a nut or set screws. Remove nut/set screws. Heat the coupler with a torch or industrial heat gun. Tap with hammer in the forward direction to encourage the coupler from the shaft. 4 hours later, once the coupler is off, remove the key, clean and deburr the end of the shaft. Now you can remove the existing stuffing box. Install the bellows of the PSS onto the stern tube and fasten the clamps. Ensure the stern tube will not come into contact with the first ridge on the inside of the bellows flange. Install the ss donut and use dish soap to help the orings slide over the shaft. Reattach the coupler onto the end of the shaft. Attach theshaft coupler to the transmission. Install 1 set screw into each of the holes in the donut and tighten them up till they just start to grab the shaft, back them out a little. Depending on the size of your shaft will depend on the amount of compression needed on the bellows. Compress the bellows the required amount and tighten the set screws to hold the donut in place. Check the compression amount. If it's ok, install one more set screw on top of the existing ones, to lock them in place.(This is where the problem comes for some installations) Hopefully you have good access, and this job will go smoothly. If you get this done in one day you have done well.
I have installed several of these PSS's. The main difficulty is removing the shaft coupler. If you have time, spray the coupler shaft area with liquid wrench or wd40 well before trying to remove the unit. The boat has to be out of the water for installation. I know this sounds stupid but you never know! Disconnect the shaft coupler from the transmission flange. Push the shaft aft. Check to see if the coupler is held on with a nut or set screws. Remove nut/set screws. Heat the coupler with a torch or industrial heat gun. Tap with hammer in the forward direction to encourage the coupler from the shaft. 4 hours later, once the coupler is off, remove the key, clean and deburr the end of the shaft. Now you can remove the existing stuffing box. Install the bellows of the PSS onto the stern tube and fasten the clamps. Ensure the stern tube will not come into contact with the first ridge on the inside of the bellows flange. Install the ss donut and use dish soap to help the orings slide over the shaft. Reattach the coupler onto the end of the shaft. Attach theshaft coupler to the transmission. Install 1 set screw into each of the holes in the donut and tighten them up till they just start to grab the shaft, back them out a little. Depending on the size of your shaft will depend on the amount of compression needed on the bellows. Compress the bellows the required amount and tighten the set screws to hold the donut in place. Check the compression amount. If it's ok, install one more set screw on top of the existing ones, to lock them in place.(This is where the problem comes for some installations) Hopefully you have good access, and this job will go smoothly. If you get this done in one day you have done well.
Another viewpoint
I hope this doesn't generate a lot of negative comments but thought I'd tell you the argument against converting Obviously, your choice. The two comments have to do with the PSS vs. the teflon impregnated dripless flax. although certainly not a common occurrence, there have been cases where the PSS seal coupling either broke or backed off resulting in leaking or worse making routine inspection important to ensure it stays put. The option of choice if you don't want to risk the PSS seal is simply replace the standard flax with the dripless type which can be safety tightened to preclude water infiltration without scoring the shaft. Both work, one clearly is less labor to install and arguably as safe if not safer.
I hope this doesn't generate a lot of negative comments but thought I'd tell you the argument against converting Obviously, your choice. The two comments have to do with the PSS vs. the teflon impregnated dripless flax. although certainly not a common occurrence, there have been cases where the PSS seal coupling either broke or backed off resulting in leaking or worse making routine inspection important to ensure it stays put. The option of choice if you don't want to risk the PSS seal is simply replace the standard flax with the dripless type which can be safety tightened to preclude water infiltration without scoring the shaft. Both work, one clearly is less labor to install and arguably as safe if not safer.
VOLVO seal
The is the same seal I have on my Beneteau 361 and it is manufactured by Volvo. The seal is a dripless seal with no moving parts. Periodicly it needs a bit of special Volvo grease to keep it watertight. Thousands of these are installed on all Beneteau boats.
The is the same seal I have on my Beneteau 361 and it is manufactured by Volvo. The seal is a dripless seal with no moving parts. Periodicly it needs a bit of special Volvo grease to keep it watertight. Thousands of these are installed on all Beneteau boats.
Go with the dripless
Go with the dripless. Make sure your shafts are aligned which will reduce any chance for wear. I have had one for about 3 years and works great. Would do it again.
Go with the dripless. Make sure your shafts are aligned which will reduce any chance for wear. I have had one for about 3 years and works great. Would do it again.
Capt Dave
Others have correctly identified the type seal you have presently. In answer to your question about replacement, there are only 2 options - the PYY type dripless and the standard lock-nut dripless flax. I won't dispute the pros/cons of each other than what I said previously. If your shaft is scored, using the dripless flax packing isn't an option since it will wear prematurely and continue to leak whereas the PYY type will mask that problem and is therefore your only option. If your shaft is okay and you choose to use the dripless (teflon impregnated)flax, it and it's description can be found on the WM web site and others. It is a much cheaper and bulletproof option.
Others have correctly identified the type seal you have presently. In answer to your question about replacement, there are only 2 options - the PYY type dripless and the standard lock-nut dripless flax. I won't dispute the pros/cons of each other than what I said previously. If your shaft is scored, using the dripless flax packing isn't an option since it will wear prematurely and continue to leak whereas the PYY type will mask that problem and is therefore your only option. If your shaft is okay and you choose to use the dripless (teflon impregnated)flax, it and it's description can be found on the WM web site and others. It is a much cheaper and bulletproof option.
WHY
The question remains, why replace the current dripless seal before you've tried to do the basic maintenance that keeps the seal watertight. The two maintenance items, are 'burping' the seal to release any water caught inside and then replenishing the Volvo grease. Each item is a two minute job. If your sure the seal is bad, then sure, go ahead and replace it with another dripless seal such as the PYI "PSS" shaft seal. The Volvo seals are super reliable, very dry, and very easy to maintain.
The question remains, why replace the current dripless seal before you've tried to do the basic maintenance that keeps the seal watertight. The two maintenance items, are 'burping' the seal to release any water caught inside and then replenishing the Volvo grease. Each item is a two minute job. If your sure the seal is bad, then sure, go ahead and replace it with another dripless seal such as the PYI "PSS" shaft seal. The Volvo seals are super reliable, very dry, and very easy to maintain.
Volvo Data Sheet
Capt Dave, Check my site for a PDF of the Volvo Seal http://home.att.net/~dragonflyb331/ Look under Dripless Seal
Capt Dave, Check my site for a PDF of the Volvo Seal http://home.att.net/~dragonflyb331/ Look under Dripless Seal
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