The PSS Shaft seal seems to be leaking more than it should. We just bought this Catalina 38 sailboat and the previous owner had recently installed the PSS. We are not familiar with it and need your assistance on servicing it. We think we birped it properly. This other related but non realted problem is that we are getting a lot of rattling when she is under under motor at higher RPM's. We think the shaft is off allignment. We have asked the yard to check it but they are backed up with work. What should we do? We are afraid to take her out. The rattling seems to be getting louder.
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First, Check Their Web Site
URL: http://www.pyiinc.com/?section=pss_shaft_seal&sn=1 There is a diagram with terms for the various items. Next, note the links in the upper left corner of the web page to Installation Instructions. If the rattleing is due to the drive trane then that could easily cause more leaking of the shaft seal, especially if the compression of the bellows is light. Another thing could be the set screws on the rotor (item #6 in above link). If the set screws are not tight the rotor could have moved. It is recommended that the set screws should be replaced whenever the rotor is reposition as their sharp edges get dulled on the stainless shaft. Does this help for starters?
URL: http://www.pyiinc.com/?section=pss_shaft_seal&sn=1 There is a diagram with terms for the various items. Next, note the links in the upper left corner of the web page to Installation Instructions. If the rattleing is due to the drive trane then that could easily cause more leaking of the shaft seal, especially if the compression of the bellows is light. Another thing could be the set screws on the rotor (item #6 in above link). If the set screws are not tight the rotor could have moved. It is recommended that the set screws should be replaced whenever the rotor is reposition as their sharp edges get dulled on the stainless shaft. Does this help for starters?
Be careful
It shouldn't be leaking. Make sure it's right before you go out. We had a major failure of the PSS shaft seal on our boat because the allen screws had not been tightened properly by the people looking after the boat. The screws had possibly come loose because the shaft was out of alignment. There are 2 sets of allen screws and both sets need to be tight. And you'll have to make sure the shaft is aligned properly. We think ours was out of alignment because when the boat was in charter, someone wrapped the dinghy painter around the prop. We almost sank because the water came rushing in when the seal came apart and the bilge pump wasn't able to keep up. We got in touch with the manufacturer and they couldn't have been more helpful putting us in contact with a local service agent.
It shouldn't be leaking. Make sure it's right before you go out. We had a major failure of the PSS shaft seal on our boat because the allen screws had not been tightened properly by the people looking after the boat. The screws had possibly come loose because the shaft was out of alignment. There are 2 sets of allen screws and both sets need to be tight. And you'll have to make sure the shaft is aligned properly. We think ours was out of alignment because when the boat was in charter, someone wrapped the dinghy painter around the prop. We almost sank because the water came rushing in when the seal came apart and the bilge pump wasn't able to keep up. We got in touch with the manufacturer and they couldn't have been more helpful putting us in contact with a local service agent.
On Point
The last two posts are on point. Call PSS for more discussion. There should be NO leak. It is super simple to adjust, but call PSS to get it straight from them. Alignment is one thing, bellows tension another. Good luck, Rick D. PS: yes, the yard is backed up, but this isn't trivial thing. Ask them for a priority. It never ceases to amaze me that yards do these things and never check their work. I should be used to it as old as I am, but it still irritates the hell out of me. Rick D.
The last two posts are on point. Call PSS for more discussion. There should be NO leak. It is super simple to adjust, but call PSS to get it straight from them. Alignment is one thing, bellows tension another. Good luck, Rick D. PS: yes, the yard is backed up, but this isn't trivial thing. Ask them for a priority. It never ceases to amaze me that yards do these things and never check their work. I should be used to it as old as I am, but it still irritates the hell out of me. Rick D.
Other Problems to Consider:
Other problems to consider: 1. If the boat was just very recently launched, say a week or two, then if there was drive trane work done that involved alignment of the engine and prop shaft then the noise could be due to the gradual adjustment of the boat itself, especially if the boat was on the hard for any time. However, the "RATE of increase" in the ratteling noise should be decreasing, not increasing. 2. Loose zinc: This will do it. When changing zincs they need a good rap with a hammer when tightening the screws. Rap, tighten, rap, tighten, etc. until the zinc feels snug. 3. Shaft (shear) key: Maybe this is sheared at the prop? Or maybe never installed and the shaft nut is getting loose? 4. Flange loose: Since the P.O. installed the shaft seal the flange had to have been removed. This also has a key that could have been omitted or sheared, or, the set screws become loose. They should be safety wireed but if they weren't tightened very well they could still have loosened up even with the safety wire. Flange set screws can also have locking nuts. 5. Flange to transmission: Check to ensure this is still properly adjusted. If there has been some settlement with the hull this could be off too. Also check that the prop shaft is reasonably centered in the shaft log as settlement could throw this out too. 6. Air in the fuel line: Believe it or not, this can, under some circumstances, create a knocking sound too. Some of these things can be checked and/or adjusted with the boat in the water. With regard to rotor movement, consider wraping some tape around the shaft, say three or four times, so one can check for any movement. Because of the very tight clearance it could also help prevent the rotor from moving forward on the shaft. I also have used a spare zinc as insurance although this can have the effect of throwing the shaft a bit out of ballance as there is no support nearby. Check smooths of operation before installing the zinc and then again afterward. If, after adding the zinc the shaft runs rough then the zinc is too off balance. Aren't boats fun??
Other problems to consider: 1. If the boat was just very recently launched, say a week or two, then if there was drive trane work done that involved alignment of the engine and prop shaft then the noise could be due to the gradual adjustment of the boat itself, especially if the boat was on the hard for any time. However, the "RATE of increase" in the ratteling noise should be decreasing, not increasing. 2. Loose zinc: This will do it. When changing zincs they need a good rap with a hammer when tightening the screws. Rap, tighten, rap, tighten, etc. until the zinc feels snug. 3. Shaft (shear) key: Maybe this is sheared at the prop? Or maybe never installed and the shaft nut is getting loose? 4. Flange loose: Since the P.O. installed the shaft seal the flange had to have been removed. This also has a key that could have been omitted or sheared, or, the set screws become loose. They should be safety wireed but if they weren't tightened very well they could still have loosened up even with the safety wire. Flange set screws can also have locking nuts. 5. Flange to transmission: Check to ensure this is still properly adjusted. If there has been some settlement with the hull this could be off too. Also check that the prop shaft is reasonably centered in the shaft log as settlement could throw this out too. 6. Air in the fuel line: Believe it or not, this can, under some circumstances, create a knocking sound too. Some of these things can be checked and/or adjusted with the boat in the water. With regard to rotor movement, consider wraping some tape around the shaft, say three or four times, so one can check for any movement. Because of the very tight clearance it could also help prevent the rotor from moving forward on the shaft. I also have used a spare zinc as insurance although this can have the effect of throwing the shaft a bit out of ballance as there is no support nearby. Check smooths of operation before installing the zinc and then again afterward. If, after adding the zinc the shaft runs rough then the zinc is too off balance. Aren't boats fun??
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