Proper Wire Crimping = STRONG!

[Maine Sail]

Hi all,I'm currently in the process of writing another article for my web site about crimping marine wire and terminations and thought I post a couple of photos that might be an eye opener for some. While I was not surprised by this I'm going to guess some will be.I used an adhesive lined heat shrink butt connector and a two lengths of 10ga marine grade UL listed tinned wire. To make the crimp I used a pair of Ancor Marine ratcheting crimper's that are specifically designed for crimping heat shrink connectors. The crimpers are model #702010 and can be seen here: http://www.ancorproducts.com/scpt/ProdPage.php?loadItem=702010_AncorI wanted to show how strong properly executed crimps are, for the many who doubt the strength. I decided the best way to show the strength would be to hang a few of my anchors from the crimped butt connector. See the next photo!I think the photos speak for them selves.Full Article with photos here:All About Marine Wire Terminationhttp://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_terminationThis is the crimped connector that I hung the anchors from.

 

[Ross]

Imagine applying that load to the wire while it was attached

to your alternator. Suggestion, pull the wires until failure occurs and note the location of the failure.Nice work.

 

[Jim]

Now that is a crimp tool

how much did it cost. I don't see a price...

 

[Maine Sail]

Sorry guys..

Sorry guys I forgot the link to the full article! Please understand that this article/blog is NOT done yet and it will include a lot more specifics when it is finished. I've listed the part number and the price in the article/blog which can be seen here:All Bout Marine Wire Terminationhttp://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_terminationP.S. The tool I use for heat shrink connections is described here:"This pair is distributed by Ancor Products and is called the "Single Crimp Ratchet Tool" Part No. 702010. I paid about $55.00 for this crimper at Hamilton Marine in Portland, Maine."

 

[Dave from Mi.]

lesson!

Thanks Maine Sail:I have been doing it "wrong" for a long time! Even us "old farts" can learn some new tricks! I am shopping online for the correct crimping tools as you describe this morning. A lot of us "lurkers" appreciate the time and effort you take to help us.fair windsDave

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Don't lose sight of the real purpose

of a crimped connection - that being to obtain the best electrical bond. Physical strength of the connection, which should never be stressed if installed properly, is not necessarily an indicator of either a good electrical connection or of it's ability to insulate from moisture penetration.

 

[Warren Milberg]

Some time ago,

I had a starting problem with my Yanmar 2GM20F. Sometimes I would hit the starter button and nothing happened. Next time I hit it, it would start. This is a common problem with aging Yanmars -- and not the topic here. In hunting for the source of the problem, I thought I'd test just about all the crimped connections from the battery, to the main switch, to the engine, and panel. I was astounded to find a number of really poor connections, many of which were probably done at the factory. For example, I could easily pull one of the red wires out of its crimp at the back end of the main panel. I found, and replaced, a number of other suspect-looking crimps. The bottom line here is: it's worth inspecting and testing your crimps (by pulling on them or doing a continuity test with a DVM if you can). Replace the bad ones as Maine Sail suggests -- he's got it right again.

 

[Fred Ficarra7897]

Don

Lordy. What other test can the end user perform other than tugging on the crimp? Why would a strong joint be less than a perfect path for electricity? Yeah, I know. Some of the little electrons will have to alter their paths a little when confronting the crimp-obstacle,,,,, but sheeze.

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Fred

FredI probably should/could have said it differently. Clearly, he knows how to make a good connection. My only purpose was to say that, while hanging anchors from a connection is dramatic, it isn't a good test of conductivity - for an extreme although silly example, forgetting to strip the insulation before making the connection would appear to have the same result and I simply wanted to point out, if someone hasn't done it before, that physical strength isn't the only indicator.My comment was intended as constructive although apparently not taken as such. Sorry..

 

[Paul Brinkley]

True, a physically strong connection may not

always mean a good conductive joint, but if the conductors and connectors are tightly crimped, there is certainly less opportunity for corrosion to form and interrupt the circuit...;D

 

[Paul Z]

NASA standard

I was taught this stuff in the USAF in 1962 along with the NASA solderingcourse. You did it perfectely!Sometimes you can pick up tools at a surplus outfit. The Boeing surplus outletin Seattle area is a great one. The AMCOR dies can be ordered from electronics houses. even if you have to buy a new one; it's a lifetime tool

 

[Stu Jackson]

The "test" of conductivity is partially

assured by the strong crimp, but even more importantly, as clearly discussed in the article, the position of the connector on the die is just as important, both for rotation and lateral position. (Geez, another engineer! )One gets into the habit of at the very least pulling on a completed crimp to assure that it has set properly. Knowing that a good correctly performed crimp can withstand those extra anchor forces is a bonus.It's not only one thing, it's a series of things that need to be done right. The "trick" of aligning the proper end of the connector with the dots on the crimping tool is priceless in itself.And even a good or perfect crimp can end up eventually corroding if heat shrink or liquid 'lectric tape is not applied to the ends, because the moisture can wick up into the strands of the wire.Well done, and thanks for the details.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Not only is the well-built crimper better

for the connections, it's easier to use! Really! I just finished the installation of a Link 2000, which has approximately 30 crimps required for the connection of the system's wires. The ratcheting ANCOR crimper was a pleasure to use, and everything works.Having a quality insulation stripper also made it easier.Good tools are really worth the expense.Why not just do it right the first time?

 

[Bob V]

Excellent blog Maine Sail

I could have supplied you with all the photos of the bad and the ugly tools and crimps. I have a good collection of the worst tools and a near endless supply of unacceptable crimp fittings. I guess it's enough to last me a lifetime since I will never use them again.Now it looks like I have to dig deep and go shopping since I am going to be installing a hydronic heat system in my boat as soon as the parts arrive. I have a couple of questions though about the double crimp tool. You said that it cannot be used for heat shrink connectors unless you order a set of jaws for that purpose but you show a non heat shrink connector in your blog. I will be installing a lot of ring connectors. Would you recommend getting the second set of jaws or just using a seperate piece of heat shrink tubing on double crimp connectors? Also, what is the difference in the jaws for double crimp heat shrink connectors?Bob V

 

[Maine Sail]

Bob..

Ancor is not showing the jaws for heat shrink on their site. I am going to change the wording on my site so as not to confuse anyone. I have seen them before but I can't for the life of me find them again. Perhaps, they don't offer them now because they have a crimper specifically for heat shrink connectors and they want you to buy two.Don't get me wrong the double crimper's will crimp heat shrink connectors, even with the double crimp dies, but just not as neatly or nicely. The jaws of the "single" crimper are machined to be gentle yet effective on heat shrink connectors.If I were in your situation I would decide which type of connector I would be using most, in the future, and invest in that direction. I paid $62.00 for my double crimper and $55.00 for my single crimper at Hamilton Marine. West Marine charges over $100.00 for the exact same double crimper and they don't even offer the single crimper.Even though these tools are expensive the combined cost is less a than paying for an hour and a half of labor and you'll have them for life!

 

[T37 Phil]

Marginal note

I find myself wondering what the difference in expected time to failure would be for the best crimp with the 'cheap' tool versus the suggested crimping method. I think that's perhaps what Don was leading into, though maybe not.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Phil, that may be a case of being

"over analytical." My original multiple OEM crimps are a disaster waiting to happen, and I'm in the process of redoing them, one-by-one. I started with the main connectors from the 1-2-B to the panel and the main transfers from the feed to the positive buss. On our boat, each switch/fuse (yeah, right, really old school) will follow. And anything I do has been done properly along the lines of Maine Sail's post.But doing anything "maybe right" simply means it'll fail sooner, and when it fails it won't be at the right time. A five year old crimp in the bilge that I did corroded and turned off the float switch right before a storm. I found it first and fixed it. But it remains a constant viliglance type of thing.F'instance, I installed a new fuse & holder from my start switch to my starter in 2004 when the engine wouldn't start. That replaced a 1986 fuse and holder that had simply disintegrated underneath the alternator. I've had to replace the new fuse holder twice since then, and am working on a much better installation, although I've got the location improved, the two-buck-chuck fuse holders they make now just ain't as good as the one dollar ones that they installed in 1986! I may simply bite the bullet and go to a circuit breaker. But I do NEED the engine to start when I want it to. It's not so bad messing around with the fuseholder before I leave an anchorage, but there are other times when...you know the drill.Step-by-step, but like I said in an earlier post, why not do it right if, now that we've gone through this discussion, we know how to do it right? Why do it only half-right?

 

[sailaway78]

Fuse Holders

Stu,Ancor makes some really nice fuse holders. They are waterproof, and even have a little mounting tab on them, so you can actually mount them instead of just hanging in a line somewhere. There are two sizes, and the big one is rated for 30amps.

 

[Bob V]

Maine Sail

If I understand you correctly, the single crimp tool is good for heat shrink connectors and that Ancor now makes two different double crimp tools. They make one for heat shrink type and one for non-heat shrink type. Are the tools made to use with heat shrink also ok to use with connectors without heat shrink? I know that you said "the double crimper's will crimp heat shrink connectors, even with the double crimp dies, but just not as neatly or nicely. The jaws of the "single" crimper are machined to be gentle yet effective on heat shrink connectors."Is the anything wrong with using the tools which are machined to be gentle to the heat shrink for all crimp connectors with and without heat shrink?Bob V

 

[Stu Jackson]

Thanks, Nice, do U mean

the yellow ones?