Hi all, I recently brought a 1970 oday 23, its a beauty, however needs work. Im new to sailing this size vessel, I sailed sunfish's previously, Im ready for the challenge.Im missing the rigging for the rear of the boom (block, stay, double ? etc..) , can someone post pictures of what belongs?or manual pics? Thank you ; peace.
proper rigging for my 23
- Thread starter Pjohn70
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Hi - it is a fairly simple arrangement. There is a single block on port side, and a single block on starboard. Also at the very aft end of the boom is a double block. Look closely at the single blocks on the side... one will have a tiny tab on it (usually its the port block). The captive end of your mainsheet attaches permanently to this tab. The mainsheet line then goes up through double block on the boom, and across to the starboard side block.... then back up to the boom and returns through the port side block and then is held to where ever you want to adjust it by a little near by cam cleat. When properly routed the mainsheet makes an "inverted V". I will try and post a sketch. Good luck. Enjoy you boat!
Lance - that's an interesting setup and one I've seen on a number of smaller boats.
Pjohn70 about the rigging..... I have an O'Day 23 and the mainsheet is not like the one outlined by Lance. Although I have thought of doing that for my boat because it will behave a little like a traveller
I'm not sure about the early O'Day's but I have an electronic copy of a manual for the 1982 O'Day 23.
Does your back stay have a triangular plate attached to it? If yes then the mainsheet will connect between the end of the boom and that triangle plate. Send me a private message and I will send you a copy of what I have. I scanned it back in 2001 but it is still a good readable copy. I'll also send other documents I have on the O'Day 23 for you files/information.
Pjohn70 about the rigging..... I have an O'Day 23 and the mainsheet is not like the one outlined by Lance. Although I have thought of doing that for my boat because it will behave a little like a traveller
I'm not sure about the early O'Day's but I have an electronic copy of a manual for the 1982 O'Day 23.
Does your back stay have a triangular plate attached to it? If yes then the mainsheet will connect between the end of the boom and that triangle plate. Send me a private message and I will send you a copy of what I have. I scanned it back in 2001 but it is still a good readable copy. I'll also send other documents I have on the O'Day 23 for you files/information.
Could have been redone I guess, but a 70 23 and an 82 23 are two completely different boats - I am fairly certain the early 23's - sometimes referred to as series 1...all had the inverted bridle style mainsheet. The later 23's - sometimes called a series 2 had the mainsheet on the backstay via the little triangular plate. I have had one of each, and loved them both for how much fun they gave vs. how little they asked for.
The original 23 (1971-74) and the later 23 (1977-85) are very different. Mainsheet on the older boats was set up like the drawing above from 1971-72, sometime during the 1973 model year it appears that the mainsheet was changed to the triangle on the backstay version. I believe this change was also made on the 22 and 20 during the 1974 model year.
I've been studying this and I think I'm good with the tackle shown but what is that last ne that "swoops" up to the right from the end of the boom? Does the boom just hang below the mainsail or is there a Lin from the boom to the top of the mast? Thanks again!!!
That would probably be an adjustable topping lift. This does hold the boom up when dousing the main. It is also a sail control, in that it can support the weight of the boom in light wind, so that the boom doesn't pull down and tighten the leech, taking out twist in the main. An easily adjusted topping lift and a vang can hold the boom to maintain proper twist on different angles of attack. This is called vang sheeting, and is a stop-gap measure to control twist for boats that don't have a traveler.
For the 1977-85 O'DAY 23, the Topping lift was 27' of 1/4 double-braid polyester. The specs that I have from O'DAY do not list the Boom-Vang, but it would really depend on the size of the blocks used anyway. For reference, the boom-vang on my DS II is a DWYER set-up, and is the same as the Factory option from O'DAY (for up to 22' boat) and uses 1/4" double-braid polyester line (10' long).
Sta-set is a go-to, easy to find option. For the topping lift, I used Sta-set. I don't ever use it for halyards or sheets, because it's too stretchy for halyards, and it absorbs too much water for sheets. For my jib downhaul, I went for the least expensive rope I could find, which I think was Samson LS Yacht Braid. It's a no-load application, so there was no need to get into my OCD high tech line preference
There are plenty of people using Sta-set for halyards and sheets, and they are happy with it. But even though I don't have a high performance boat, I believe in the ASF School of Sailing (Always Sail Fast) so I contribute excessively to the economic well-being of the marine industry. (Or as my Grandfather used to say, "I have more money than brains.")What's the best way to unstep a 1979 23 with the backstay block setup? Any tips/tricks to be shared?
I would think that unstepping would basically involve the reverse of the stepping procedure, so..... (I was surprised to see that the Manual advises pivoting the mast up from the bow, I would have expected doing it from the stern.) Anyway, here is the directions for (1977-85 models) Un-stepping the mast.
This is the basics and is written from my experiences of unstepping and stepping the mast of our old CAL 21 and from observing many other people stepping/unstepping mast on boats like the O'DAY 23, so use caution if using my advice, NO WARRANTY is offered on these directions!
I would begin by attaching a length of line (about 20' +/-) to the end of the jib halyard (shackle end), and run it through a block attached to the bow cleats or the stem fitting using the hole normally used for the jib tack. Lead this line aft to one of the jib sheet winches and have a third person tail this line using the winch to snub it (this could be the same person who I mention below tending the forestay?) This person will gradually ease the line out as the mast pivots down, taking some of the load off the person guiding the mast down.
1) loosen the backstay turnbuckle a few turns. to gain a little slack.
2) with someone leaning against the aft side of the mast to tip it slightly forward, remove the forward pin from the mast hinge (tabernacle). Then, release the forestay turnbuckle from the stem fitting (may need to loosen this to allow slack to remove clevis pin)
3) the person at the forestay will hold tension on the forestay (or tail the line extending the jib halyard to a winch) while the person at the mast slowly allows the mast to begin to pivot aft. This person l need to carefully step down from the cabin top to the cockpit guiding the mast as it pivots down, it is a scary experience......!
4) Carefully walk back towards the stern as the mast pivots down, if you set up an aft support to rest the mast on once horizontal, set the mast on that, it you have the optional stern rail, it should be adequate to hold the mast but I would suggest making a better support if moving the boat very far (more than a few miles) to get home from the ramp.
5) once mast is horizontal, take a break to start breathing again! Then remove the aft pin from the mast hinge and slide mast forward to rest on a forward mast support or the bow rail. Secure mast in place before leaving ramp parking area.
My suggestion, have plenty of help the first time you do this!! Think EVERYTHING through completely before starting.
I'll let the O'DAY 23 owners give you more specific advice..... As I say, I have stepped/unstepped the mast on a CAL 21 several times, the mast on that boat is a bit lighter (but not much!) than the O 23, It is not hard to do this..... but it is not to be approached without careful thought. (I hope I'm not scaring you!!)
CAUTION: BEFORE UNSTEPPING THE MAST, BE SURE THAT THERE ARE NO OVERHEAD WIRES OR TREE BRANCHES. ALSO CHECK THAT THERE ARE NO OVERHEAD OBSTACLES BETWEEN RIGGING AREA AND LAUNCHING AREA.
Normally, when trailering this boat, only the Forestay needs to be unhooked to lower the mast; thus the other standing rigging can be left adjusted for the season. The Backstay will need to be loosened each time to unstep the mast, and then retighten after stepping the mast.
This is the basics and is written from my experiences of unstepping and stepping the mast of our old CAL 21 and from observing many other people stepping/unstepping mast on boats like the O'DAY 23, so use caution if using my advice, NO WARRANTY is offered on these directions!
I would begin by attaching a length of line (about 20' +/-) to the end of the jib halyard (shackle end), and run it through a block attached to the bow cleats or the stem fitting using the hole normally used for the jib tack. Lead this line aft to one of the jib sheet winches and have a third person tail this line using the winch to snub it (this could be the same person who I mention below tending the forestay?) This person will gradually ease the line out as the mast pivots down, taking some of the load off the person guiding the mast down.
1) loosen the backstay turnbuckle a few turns. to gain a little slack.
2) with someone leaning against the aft side of the mast to tip it slightly forward, remove the forward pin from the mast hinge (tabernacle). Then, release the forestay turnbuckle from the stem fitting (may need to loosen this to allow slack to remove clevis pin)
3) the person at the forestay will hold tension on the forestay (or tail the line extending the jib halyard to a winch) while the person at the mast slowly allows the mast to begin to pivot aft. This person l need to carefully step down from the cabin top to the cockpit guiding the mast as it pivots down, it is a scary experience......!
4) Carefully walk back towards the stern as the mast pivots down, if you set up an aft support to rest the mast on once horizontal, set the mast on that, it you have the optional stern rail, it should be adequate to hold the mast but I would suggest making a better support if moving the boat very far (more than a few miles) to get home from the ramp.
5) once mast is horizontal, take a break to start breathing again! Then remove the aft pin from the mast hinge and slide mast forward to rest on a forward mast support or the bow rail. Secure mast in place before leaving ramp parking area.
My suggestion, have plenty of help the first time you do this!! Think EVERYTHING through completely before starting.
I'll let the O'DAY 23 owners give you more specific advice..... As I say, I have stepped/unstepped the mast on a CAL 21 several times, the mast on that boat is a bit lighter (but not much!) than the O 23, It is not hard to do this..... but it is not to be approached without careful thought. (I hope I'm not scaring you!!)
CAUTION: BEFORE UNSTEPPING THE MAST, BE SURE THAT THERE ARE NO OVERHEAD WIRES OR TREE BRANCHES. ALSO CHECK THAT THERE ARE NO OVERHEAD OBSTACLES BETWEEN RIGGING AREA AND LAUNCHING AREA.
Normally, when trailering this boat, only the Forestay needs to be unhooked to lower the mast; thus the other standing rigging can be left adjusted for the season. The Backstay will need to be loosened each time to unstep the mast, and then retighten after stepping the mast.
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