propeller shaft seal

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O

ohpoppy

there's a drip, drip, drip on the transmission side of the propeller shaft. Between the rubber hose and the trans. I just put it in yesterday. I hope it can be sealed without taking it out of the water....looks like joint will disconnect and shaft can be moved downward. Want to know whats involved before I do this..and what I need to buy and have handy. Thanks all, Bob
 
Jun 4, 2004
844
Hunter 28.5 Tolchester, MD
Shaft Log Drips

You should expect to see about one or two drips per minute from the shaftlog when the engine is running. If it continues to drip when the shaft is not rotating, just tighten the shaft log packing about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. This is accomplished using two pipe wrenches. If you have the original shaft log on a 28.5, it is made of nylon and has a cotter pin keeping the two parts from rotating. Remove the cotter pin and tighten the sections into each other; then reinsert the cotter pin and run the engine. If the shaft log has been replaced with a bronze fitting, there will be a lock nut on the rearward section that needs to be backed off before you can tighten the packing gland. If after a reasonable attempt at adjustment, it is dripping more than you want, you may need to replace the packing within the shaftlog. This is a little more involved; can be done with the boat in the water, but something that might require a more experienced hand. Check the Archives on this site undder shaft log or packing gland.
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,920
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
Bob, from your description it must be...

your stuffing box. If it is the bronze version you should expect to see six to ten drips per minute while the prop shaft is spinning. At idle it should not drip. Short of replacing the packing material, as long as it is in good condition, you can tighten the stuffing box by breaking loose the jam nut on the back side of the box and turning the box nut a flat or two. This should slow the drip rate. Avoid over tightening. This will create too much friction and burn or glaze the material destroying its sealing properties. Some have replaced the material while the boat is in the water. I prefer doing it on the hard. Access to ours is way less than ideal. Having water coming in during this process makes matters a bit anxious. I tolerated the drip until the next haul out. Service wrenchs with a pipe extension work the best. Ours took a two and one quarter inch, and a two and five sixteenth inch size. Pipe wrenches, channel locks, etc., were usless. Liquid wrench helped to loosen things up. Terry
 
Oct 22, 2005
12
-Hunter -28.5 anderson, sc
It is what you all said. what packing to buy?????

It is what you all said. I tightened it and it stopped leaking to a drop/10 sec. Its a updated one with a locking nut..no cotter pin. I will attempt to repack it in the water. DOES ANYONE KNOW THE SIZE AND QUANITY OF PACKING I NEED? As it will be "anxious" ....I want to be prepared. Thanks, all of you, Bob
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,920
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
Bob, since your adjustment worked...

the existing material may last another season or two. Our boat took three sixteenth inch stuffing. I used a dental pick to remove the old material. Terry
 
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