Hi all, I'm a relatively new owner of a 1980 Hunter 30. I have almost no control when putting my boat in reverse. Unfortunately, I'm not sure what kind of prop I have, the size of it or the size of the shaft. I'm pretty sure it's a two bladed prop and most likely it's the original. Can anyone point me in the right direction for controlling prop walk or possibly changing the prop to a 3 bladed one or feathering one that would give me better performance especially in reverse. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers! -Bryan
Prop Walk
- Thread starter bnizer
- Start date
- Status
Bryan, fwiw I recommend you leave the....
boat as is and learn how to work with it's characteristics. Two facts to consider: 1. It is not the prop. Your boat must have some way in reverse before the rudder can do its job in moving the boat in the direction that you want it to go. 2. Same goes in forward, except now the prop thrust against the rudder can move the boat in a direction without way. Others will tell you a three blade is better or a feathering one works wonders. Maybe they do, but whatever it is is marginal. Either way you will encounter and must consider several issues if you decide to make the change. There are many articles on how to use prop walk to your advantage. Try a Google search and see what you find. Try this first before you go to the trouble and expense of changing from what you have. Terry
boat as is and learn how to work with it's characteristics. Two facts to consider: 1. It is not the prop. Your boat must have some way in reverse before the rudder can do its job in moving the boat in the direction that you want it to go. 2. Same goes in forward, except now the prop thrust against the rudder can move the boat in a direction without way. Others will tell you a three blade is better or a feathering one works wonders. Maybe they do, but whatever it is is marginal. Either way you will encounter and must consider several issues if you decide to make the change. There are many articles on how to use prop walk to your advantage. Try a Google search and see what you find. Try this first before you go to the trouble and expense of changing from what you have. Terry
Use it or lose it
I agree with Terry. Use the prop walk. It is not an erratical behavior-it will walk the same way/speed almost every time. I back into my slip and know that the prop walk will turn us 90 degrees before biting. I set up inline with the slip; put in reverse and rev up a few times. Shortly the boat will be going backwards at a right angle from the starting position (aft to port) As long as you keep up some speed (aftway as opposed to headway) you won't experience much more "walk" and you will have steerage. Just don't stop too soon.
I agree with Terry. Use the prop walk. It is not an erratical behavior-it will walk the same way/speed almost every time. I back into my slip and know that the prop walk will turn us 90 degrees before biting. I set up inline with the slip; put in reverse and rev up a few times. Shortly the boat will be going backwards at a right angle from the starting position (aft to port) As long as you keep up some speed (aftway as opposed to headway) you won't experience much more "walk" and you will have steerage. Just don't stop too soon.
Don't spare...
the throttle! Too many people are afraid to use enough reverse throttle to get water moving past the rudder. Best advice is use bursts of reverse, followed by neutral and manipulation of the wheel to get you where you want to go. As said before, prop walk can be your best friend once you learn how to deal with it.
the throttle! Too many people are afraid to use enough reverse throttle to get water moving past the rudder. Best advice is use bursts of reverse, followed by neutral and manipulation of the wheel to get you where you want to go. As said before, prop walk can be your best friend once you learn how to deal with it.
Talking about going in reverse
Remember, the water will put pressure on the rudder when you are travelling in reverse. This will cause your wheel to spin in the direction of the rudder if you aren't careful. My suggestion is to keep a grip on the wheel and know how it reacts while moving in reverse. When backing, I am able to have a dock line from the starboard aft to a piling. I keep the boat going straight while she is just getting way, then place the dock line on a hook on the piling.
Remember, the water will put pressure on the rudder when you are travelling in reverse. This will cause your wheel to spin in the direction of the rudder if you aren't careful. My suggestion is to keep a grip on the wheel and know how it reacts while moving in reverse. When backing, I am able to have a dock line from the starboard aft to a piling. I keep the boat going straight while she is just getting way, then place the dock line on a hook on the piling.
pratice..pratice
Find an open piece of water and pratice learning to control the boat in reverse. Try all different combinations of helm and throttle. Find a mooring float or lobster float as a reference point and try backing up to it. Not too close. Try this from all directions. Upwind, downwind, sidewind...you most likely don't need a new prop, just practice until you get the feel of the boat in reverse.
Find an open piece of water and pratice learning to control the boat in reverse. Try all different combinations of helm and throttle. Find a mooring float or lobster float as a reference point and try backing up to it. Not too close. Try this from all directions. Upwind, downwind, sidewind...you most likely don't need a new prop, just practice until you get the feel of the boat in reverse.
Use and Control Propwalk.
Before backing up anticipate the effect of wind and current. Will it counter act the walk or emphasize it? This will help you gauge the amount of throttle needed and the angle of rudder. The best way is to have a line over the starboard stern just to hold the stern in position until the boat starts moving backward. Once you have gained some stearage shift to neutral and the prop walk will stop. Don't let the backward motion die just shif in and out of reverse to control speed and direction. Don't be afraid to use your rub rail against a pylon to hold or help steer the boat. You get a pylon amidship and you can pivot on it like when backing the boat into a slip. Dock line can also be used to turn a boat. Prop walk is very convenient when pulling parallel up to a dock on your port side, just place it in reverse and it will tuck the stern in. Also you can turn the boat in its own axis by turning the wheel to starboard and shifting back and forth between reverse and forward at a slow speed. This particularly helpful for turning the boat in a narrow fairway or congested anchorage. Most important like everyone else indicated, practice and get a feel for your boat.
Before backing up anticipate the effect of wind and current. Will it counter act the walk or emphasize it? This will help you gauge the amount of throttle needed and the angle of rudder. The best way is to have a line over the starboard stern just to hold the stern in position until the boat starts moving backward. Once you have gained some stearage shift to neutral and the prop walk will stop. Don't let the backward motion die just shif in and out of reverse to control speed and direction. Don't be afraid to use your rub rail against a pylon to hold or help steer the boat. You get a pylon amidship and you can pivot on it like when backing the boat into a slip. Dock line can also be used to turn a boat. Prop walk is very convenient when pulling parallel up to a dock on your port side, just place it in reverse and it will tuck the stern in. Also you can turn the boat in its own axis by turning the wheel to starboard and shifting back and forth between reverse and forward at a slow speed. This particularly helpful for turning the boat in a narrow fairway or congested anchorage. Most important like everyone else indicated, practice and get a feel for your boat.
Another trick...
I learned from a fellow Hunter sailor after I bought my H34 was to stand facing aft on the forward side of the wheel and steer as if you were going forward. It overcomes the mental translation of facing forward from behind the wheel while trying to figure out how much correction to make to overcome the stern walking to port while being distracted by what the bow was doing. Just remember which lever is which for the engine!
I learned from a fellow Hunter sailor after I bought my H34 was to stand facing aft on the forward side of the wheel and steer as if you were going forward. It overcomes the mental translation of facing forward from behind the wheel while trying to figure out how much correction to make to overcome the stern walking to port while being distracted by what the bow was doing. Just remember which lever is which for the engine!
Well, Bryan
You asked. Obviously this is the place. One of these guys might even volunteer to show you some tricks. If you ask of course.
You asked. Obviously this is the place. One of these guys might even volunteer to show you some tricks. If you ask of course.
Boat show rodeo
Fred, did you want to sponsor a rendezvous or boat show rodeo backing in contest? Mind if we borrow your boat? Looks like we boat your boat. Naa, looks like we broke the boss' boat. (Captain Ron)
Fred, did you want to sponsor a rendezvous or boat show rodeo backing in contest? Mind if we borrow your boat? Looks like we boat your boat. Naa, looks like we broke the boss' boat. (Captain Ron)
Bryan, I'm so glad you asked!
Because now I don't have to! I'm starting my 2 year with a '80 H30. I have a three blade prop and I can't back my boat either. I pull up to my slip on the port side and grab a mooring line. Holding the boat to the piling and a couple shots of reverse and I'm in. I even managed to single hand her into the slip, once. Trying to back into the slip much like one would back a car into a parking stall is out of the question, for now. ( I go out early in the morning on weekdays when no one is around and try to "back in", no one's keeping score on me LOL)
Because now I don't have to! I'm starting my 2 year with a '80 H30. I have a three blade prop and I can't back my boat either. I pull up to my slip on the port side and grab a mooring line. Holding the boat to the piling and a couple shots of reverse and I'm in. I even managed to single hand her into the slip, once. Trying to back into the slip much like one would back a car into a parking stall is out of the question, for now. ( I go out early in the morning on weekdays when no one is around and try to "back in", no one's keeping score on me LOL)
Good Luck Bnizer
Don't despare....live with it. Had my Hunter 27 for over 20 years and still couldn't back into a 25 ft wide slip with my 9 ft beam. I've always thought about ways to overcome the prop walk, but am now conveniced that's just the way the boat is. So, I go in bow first and back out bouncing off the fenders on the wall when I'm single handed or having my first mate fend-off when there's crew. Don't spend money on a different prop and expect it to help. Got friends who tried and got no releif except to the pocketbook. Good luck and good sailing!
Don't despare....live with it. Had my Hunter 27 for over 20 years and still couldn't back into a 25 ft wide slip with my 9 ft beam. I've always thought about ways to overcome the prop walk, but am now conveniced that's just the way the boat is. So, I go in bow first and back out bouncing off the fenders on the wall when I'm single handed or having my first mate fend-off when there's crew. Don't spend money on a different prop and expect it to help. Got friends who tried and got no releif except to the pocketbook. Good luck and good sailing!
Backing Up
With specific reference to backing into a slip. A common error is to try and turn "short round" off the nuckle, and then expect to be able to back in, it seldom works and propwalk serves only to bollox the whole manoeuvre. The key is to start backing in a hundred metres out! Propwalk is no longer an issue. Keep minimal way on the boat (1 to 3 knots depending on wind)and "steer" the boat from the stern. You will be very please with the results, and so will your boat neighbours. As a secondary comment, I have found that a Variprop, properly tuned, makes a world of difference when going astern. Good power and the ability to either negate, or induce further (if its what you need!) propwalk make this an excellent investment. John PS. I don't sell variprops!Oh and, practice, practice, practice
With specific reference to backing into a slip. A common error is to try and turn "short round" off the nuckle, and then expect to be able to back in, it seldom works and propwalk serves only to bollox the whole manoeuvre. The key is to start backing in a hundred metres out! Propwalk is no longer an issue. Keep minimal way on the boat (1 to 3 knots depending on wind)and "steer" the boat from the stern. You will be very please with the results, and so will your boat neighbours. As a secondary comment, I have found that a Variprop, properly tuned, makes a world of difference when going astern. Good power and the ability to either negate, or induce further (if its what you need!) propwalk make this an excellent investment. John PS. I don't sell variprops!Oh and, practice, practice, practice
I second the long backup
We have many guys here trying to back into a slip like they back their car. Not a good idea. They find themselves missing the mark and re-doing a lot. If you do the following, you will never miss the mark and will never fret docking after you've done it 2 or 3 times. Head down your fare-way at 2 knots. When you reach your slip, put it in neutral. Plan ahead for the wind direction because when you come to a stop, the wind will have a little affect until you get going backwards. Key here is you have plenty of room in the fare-way. Also plan for the prop walk the first 10 yards in reverse. After you get going in reverse (JUST A LITTLE SPEED LIKE A KNOT), put the engine in idle but still in gear. Have a midship spring line ready. Once the stern is in the slip, step off (you should have steered close enough to the finger that you can step off) with the spring line in hand and loop it around the first finger cleat. While the boat is still going backwards, hold tight on the spring line. The boat will gently pull up against the finger and rest on the finders. Slowly let the spring line out and the boat will continue to back into the slip while being held against the finger (this is because you left it in gear in at idle). Once you have it at the right place, tie off the bow and stern cleats and then shut of the engine. NOTICE: this doesn't involve slamming the engine in forward and revving it up to stop the boat...that's hard on the tranny and engine. It also doesn't involve trying to grab the lifelines and stop the boat by hand. That leads to falling into the drink and the boat slamming against the dock or the lifelines breaking. This is perfect for us single handlers.
We have many guys here trying to back into a slip like they back their car. Not a good idea. They find themselves missing the mark and re-doing a lot. If you do the following, you will never miss the mark and will never fret docking after you've done it 2 or 3 times. Head down your fare-way at 2 knots. When you reach your slip, put it in neutral. Plan ahead for the wind direction because when you come to a stop, the wind will have a little affect until you get going backwards. Key here is you have plenty of room in the fare-way. Also plan for the prop walk the first 10 yards in reverse. After you get going in reverse (JUST A LITTLE SPEED LIKE A KNOT), put the engine in idle but still in gear. Have a midship spring line ready. Once the stern is in the slip, step off (you should have steered close enough to the finger that you can step off) with the spring line in hand and loop it around the first finger cleat. While the boat is still going backwards, hold tight on the spring line. The boat will gently pull up against the finger and rest on the finders. Slowly let the spring line out and the boat will continue to back into the slip while being held against the finger (this is because you left it in gear in at idle). Once you have it at the right place, tie off the bow and stern cleats and then shut of the engine. NOTICE: this doesn't involve slamming the engine in forward and revving it up to stop the boat...that's hard on the tranny and engine. It also doesn't involve trying to grab the lifelines and stop the boat by hand. That leads to falling into the drink and the boat slamming against the dock or the lifelines breaking. This is perfect for us single handlers.
Thanks!!!
Thanks to everyone that replied...I will practice, practice and practice. I think I'll reward myself a nice cold one each time I screw up...I mean get it right! Thanks again!
Thanks to everyone that replied...I will practice, practice and practice. I think I'll reward myself a nice cold one each time I screw up...I mean get it right! Thanks again!
- Status