Prop. size for Farymann A30, Cal 2-29

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Steve White

I'm interested in knowing what propeller size you Cal 2-29 owners are using with your Farymann A30 12 h.p. engines with Nanni transmission. Also what sort of speeds are you getting and at what RPM? Does anyone know what the original equipment prop size was?
 
Jan 8, 2006
22
- - Alimitos Bay (Long Beach)
Blade & performance

Hi Steve, I'm running a 12 x 12 2-blade. I can run a comfortable 6-6.5 knots in modest SoCal swells. Reverse kind of bites, and I've been toying with maybe switching to a three blade to see if I get a little more reverse control. We never got much from the Farymann until we replaced the fuel pump with an electric.
 
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Steve White

Re: Blade & performance

John, that seems like excellent performance. I bought my 2-29 with the Farymann recently refurbished (60 hr.). I now have about 305 hr. and have never been able to get much more than 5+ knots. With the cold water up here the engine never seems to warm up. If I go full throttle I'll get a bit of black soot. I've been running with a 12x13 2-blade prop. and just recently put on a 12x10 2-blade. It seems to do a little better (less soot) and a little more speed. What sort of RPM do you turn? I'm interested in anything you might be able to tell me further regarding this electric fuel pump conversion you've done.
 

Fred T

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Jun 8, 2004
44
Cal 29 Forked River, NJ
2-29 prop

Steve I started out with a Sailer (sic) 12 x 12. Yielded 6 - 6.5 knots in calm water, but got soot at full throttle. Switched to a 12 X 9, same make prop. Lost a half knot (dropped to 5.5 - 6.0 knots). No longer get soot at full throttle. My engine warms up well; it is equipped with fresh-water cooling which no doubt helps. Fred T p.s.If you go to lower pitch, watch out! Reverse loses some of its bite. Carry too much speed into a slip and you could find yourself with no "brakes" (or weak ones). Ask me how I know.
 
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Frans

12 X 12

My Cal 2-29 has an A10 Farymann with 12 X 12 prop. However I am thinking about switching to a 3 bladed prop for better manueverability. My top speed is pretty slow, only about 5 knots on a calm day.
 
Oct 18, 2005
7
Cal 2-29 Huntington, New York
2-29 with A30 and original 12" x 6" Prop

I have 73 2-29 with the original A30 in it. The engine is in top shape and is extremely well maintained. I just replaced my original prop and shaft this year. I did a few calcultions and determined that the original 12" x 6" 2 blade was probably the best based on boat weight, waterline length, hp and rpm. The A30 produces 10HP at the transmission output (with the B6 2:1 reduction tranny) at 2,500 RPM and 8HP at 2,000 rpm. I run the engine normally at 2,000 rpm. That gets me a whopping 4 knots +/- in IDEAL conditions. ( I don't make any friends in the long run out of Huntington Harbor.) At 2,300 pm I can get an extra .2 knots. The engine will not rev past 2,350 in gear so that leads me to believe that the 6" pitch is hitting the max tourqe that the A30 produces. Once the tach hits 2,350, any mre throttle just makes smoke. Theoreticaly, you would need 19 hp at the shaft in ideal conditions to reach the max hull speed of 6.7 kts. That means that a 30HP engine running at crusing RPM would probably be best.
 
Jan 8, 2006
22
- - Alimitos Bay (Long Beach)
Fuel pump

Hey Steve, The pump and rebuild kit for the A30 are no longer available. PRP makes an electric conversion, but not something that I wanted to wait or pay the PRP premium for. It worked out well for me since I have a friend with a machine shop in his garage. The electric fuel pump was an easy add in. I mounted a marine-grade pump of about 7 psi between my inline fuel filter and the engine. I didn't want to mess around with the high-pressure fuel lines, so I took a pipe nipple that had about the same outside diameter as the inside diameter as the banjo fittings that connect the lines to the stock pump. I placed the banjo fittings over the nipple with a copper compression washer in between to determine where the holes in the nipple needed to be to let the fuel flow. The caps used at either end were machined smooth for a flush fit and a good seal. Copper compression washers where placed between the banjo fittings on the nipple and also at each capped end. The old pump came off and was covered with a gasketed plate. All that was left after that was mounting the fuel pump switch. In mine, the Farymann is already set to cycle unneeded fuel pumped to the engine back into the tank. Cycling the fuel caused me to have to change the filter a little sooner than usual a couple of times at first, but has been running like a champ ever since.
 
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