Well, found and fixed my rudder problem, but now have a much greater one. While mooring at the end of my 10 day cruise, I managed to wrap the line around my prop & shaft and break my prop shaft stay in half. I got the rope off the prop and line using scuba gear and then noticed the broken stay. Not a great end to the cruise or the season. Any suggestions on where to acquire a new one. The boat is equipped with a Yanmar 1GM10. The season is now over for me as we have no means of lifting and launching the boat again at a reasonable price. Hope to acquire the new part and replace it when I pull her for the winter. Can't seem to find too much on the web concerning the part.
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For such parts contact the Manufacturer as
they may suggest a replacement part or direct you to a fabricator. Depending on where the break was perhaps the old part could be welded but chances are it was already weak from metal fatigue and corrotion and will need replacement. Sorry for your sailing season. Let us know how you finally make out on this.
they may suggest a replacement part or direct you to a fabricator. Depending on where the break was perhaps the old part could be welded but chances are it was already weak from metal fatigue and corrotion and will need replacement. Sorry for your sailing season. Let us know how you finally make out on this.
Try this for a new Strut!
Southeastern Foundries Corporation 2706 Oakland Ave. Greensboro, NC 27403 336-299-7211 They should have what you need. You may need to get some info from Hunter if you cannot provide the info.
Southeastern Foundries Corporation 2706 Oakland Ave. Greensboro, NC 27403 336-299-7211 They should have what you need. You may need to get some info from Hunter if you cannot provide the info.
Advice * suggestions appreciated
Thanks for all the information guys, I really appreciate it. As to insurance the deductible here is set so high in order to have a decent premium, I don't think it would be worthwhile even asking. I don't think that welding would be an option as the piece appears to be iron or bronze as it is rough to the touch when I inspected it with scuba gear. As to the rudder problem, it wasn't the rudder. As suggested it was the fact the I had the mast raked too far aft and that in my stupidity, I hadn't taken entire sail area into consideration according to the wind. I've since tried it with a partially furled jib and the second reef in the main and in a strong blow it answers to the helm much better. I will however, be looking a the rudder at the time of winter layup as after having read the many reports of water infiltration, I've decided to make sure the rudder doesn't become a problem in the future. Again thanks for all the advise and I'll post the results of my quest for a new rudder stay
Thanks for all the information guys, I really appreciate it. As to insurance the deductible here is set so high in order to have a decent premium, I don't think it would be worthwhile even asking. I don't think that welding would be an option as the piece appears to be iron or bronze as it is rough to the touch when I inspected it with scuba gear. As to the rudder problem, it wasn't the rudder. As suggested it was the fact the I had the mast raked too far aft and that in my stupidity, I hadn't taken entire sail area into consideration according to the wind. I've since tried it with a partially furled jib and the second reef in the main and in a strong blow it answers to the helm much better. I will however, be looking a the rudder at the time of winter layup as after having read the many reports of water infiltration, I've decided to make sure the rudder doesn't become a problem in the future. Again thanks for all the advise and I'll post the results of my quest for a new rudder stay
Dahmer
The company you are looking fore is Dahmer Marine. They made your strut and are still in business in Keyport New Jersey. As you can see in Manny's picture their imprint is on it. H-1 is their part number for the casting. For my Hunter 33 it was H-33. I can't find the phone number but You shouldn't have trouble. My strut with cutless installed was $250 about 6 years ago. Have fun installing it. Just remember your engine alignment starts with the strut.
The company you are looking fore is Dahmer Marine. They made your strut and are still in business in Keyport New Jersey. As you can see in Manny's picture their imprint is on it. H-1 is their part number for the casting. For my Hunter 33 it was H-33. I can't find the phone number but You shouldn't have trouble. My strut with cutless installed was $250 about 6 years ago. Have fun installing it. Just remember your engine alignment starts with the strut.
Here's a thought...
if it broke in roughly the center, could you maybe maybe splint it on both sides with a similar metal? Put plates on either side and drill some holes through to through bolt the plates to the strut? I'm not an engineer but maybe it would be okay to get you through the rest of the season if you weren't running wide open on the throttle... Hopefully someone can chime and say if that is a viable option or if I'm nuts
Otherwise, do you or a friend have a dingy that you can use to tow yourself out to your sailing grounds and back to the marina? At least that way you can still sail till haulout *cry time comes along. Keep us posted, Manny
if it broke in roughly the center, could you maybe maybe splint it on both sides with a similar metal? Put plates on either side and drill some holes through to through bolt the plates to the strut? I'm not an engineer but maybe it would be okay to get you through the rest of the season if you weren't running wide open on the throttle... Hopefully someone can chime and say if that is a viable option or if I'm nuts
Otherwise, do you or a friend have a dingy that you can use to tow yourself out to your sailing grounds and back to the marina? At least that way you can still sail till haulout *cry time comes along. Keep us posted, MannyMisery likes company
I had a line wrap around the prop but my strut was bent and did not break. I am planning to try and bend it back into alignment and if successful stregthen it with welding when the boat is hauled for bottom painting. Has anyone ever tried to bend the strut back? what was the outcome? As for the broken strut, it seems like it would be easier and cheaper just to have a good welder weld it when the boat is pulled instead of trying to remove and replace the strut with a new one. Getting the strut off looks like a big deal. Could the strut be removed and replaced with the boat in the water?
I had a line wrap around the prop but my strut was bent and did not break. I am planning to try and bend it back into alignment and if successful stregthen it with welding when the boat is hauled for bottom painting. Has anyone ever tried to bend the strut back? what was the outcome? As for the broken strut, it seems like it would be easier and cheaper just to have a good welder weld it when the boat is pulled instead of trying to remove and replace the strut with a new one. Getting the strut off looks like a big deal. Could the strut be removed and replaced with the boat in the water?
Did I mention ENGINE ALIGNMENT?
The strut is the key to engine alignment. Jury rigs will be crude at best and then the REAL fun begins. Your advantage is that the right strut IS AVAILABLE. Bite the bullet, buy the strut, do it right the first time.
The strut is the key to engine alignment. Jury rigs will be crude at best and then the REAL fun begins. Your advantage is that the right strut IS AVAILABLE. Bite the bullet, buy the strut, do it right the first time.
I cant see how it could be replaced in the water
Just going by memory, I don't there is much clearance between the prop and the rudder, at least on mine anyway. I have a sneaking suspicion that the rudder may have to be dropped to get the strut off the shaft. The strut screws and bolts are a bit below the water line and to access the bolts inside requires some sort of contortionist who is not claustrophobic to get down in there. Manny
Just going by memory, I don't there is much clearance between the prop and the rudder, at least on mine anyway. I have a sneaking suspicion that the rudder may have to be dropped to get the strut off the shaft. The strut screws and bolts are a bit below the water line and to access the bolts inside requires some sort of contortionist who is not claustrophobic to get down in there. Manny
Jury Rigs-Welding & Clearances
Again thanks for all the help. Jury Rigs are not in the cards, as everyone has mentioned alignment starts with the strut, I have no desire to further screw up the entire system and multiply the dollars and cents misery. If I'm not terribly mistaken, the strut is cast and therefore welding is out of the question, the metal is too porous and brittle to weld. As to clearances, that shouldn't be a problem when the boat is on the hard stand. If i turn the rudder full lock in either direction, remove the prop, the part of the strut remaining on the shaft will slide right off, the remainder then can be removed from the hull as Manny says by a contorsionist who is not claustrophobic. I think I can get a socket with a flex fitting and a long extension on the interior nuts and the remove the bolts from the outside with my impact tool. All this will have to wait until pull out though. Sam, I'll find the phone number for Dahmer and get ahold of them with the Hunter hull number and the year the boat was built. Hopefully they'll have the part. New Jersey isn't all that far and I can have the part shipped to the Maine/New Brunwick border and pick it up there. I also have a note into Hunter for their advice.
Again thanks for all the help. Jury Rigs are not in the cards, as everyone has mentioned alignment starts with the strut, I have no desire to further screw up the entire system and multiply the dollars and cents misery. If I'm not terribly mistaken, the strut is cast and therefore welding is out of the question, the metal is too porous and brittle to weld. As to clearances, that shouldn't be a problem when the boat is on the hard stand. If i turn the rudder full lock in either direction, remove the prop, the part of the strut remaining on the shaft will slide right off, the remainder then can be removed from the hull as Manny says by a contorsionist who is not claustrophobic. I think I can get a socket with a flex fitting and a long extension on the interior nuts and the remove the bolts from the outside with my impact tool. All this will have to wait until pull out though. Sam, I'll find the phone number for Dahmer and get ahold of them with the Hunter hull number and the year the boat was built. Hopefully they'll have the part. New Jersey isn't all that far and I can have the part shipped to the Maine/New Brunwick border and pick it up there. I also have a note into Hunter for their advice.
Been There Done That
About 7 years ago I did the rope wrap around my prop on the last sail of the season. In October in NY, boy is that water cold..... Unwrapped the line and limped into the harbor. The boat was on a temporary mooring for about 2 days before they pulled it. I didn't know it at the time but when the line wrapped around the prop it bent the strut and jarred loose the bolts because the backing block was soft. The pulled the boat with about 6" of water in it. Almost sank it. I took the strut off and with it in a big vice I was able to take the bend out with a very big pipe wrench. Reinstalled it on the boat with a new backing block, new bolts and 5200 caulk. After it was installed I used a big pip wrench to adjust the alignment. Don't know if it was 100% but 7 years latter no problems.
About 7 years ago I did the rope wrap around my prop on the last sail of the season. In October in NY, boy is that water cold..... Unwrapped the line and limped into the harbor. The boat was on a temporary mooring for about 2 days before they pulled it. I didn't know it at the time but when the line wrapped around the prop it bent the strut and jarred loose the bolts because the backing block was soft. The pulled the boat with about 6" of water in it. Almost sank it. I took the strut off and with it in a big vice I was able to take the bend out with a very big pipe wrench. Reinstalled it on the boat with a new backing block, new bolts and 5200 caulk. After it was installed I used a big pip wrench to adjust the alignment. Don't know if it was 100% but 7 years latter no problems.
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