Prop Shaft/Rudder
- Thread starter gpd955
- Start date
Hey Jack, just lift the engine up, you don't need to un-wire or un-plumb it, there is enough slack to move it up after you remove the bulkhead, then slide the shaft out from the inside. Have you checked the engine mounts, how about the damper plate and cutlass bearing, all can be done at the same time.
That will be a lot easier!!! Thanks. Any idea on the shaft length? I measured 51 3/4" but I also cut it in 3 pieces to remove it so there was probably a small amount of length lost with the grinding. Warren Pandy said the length was probably 50 1/2" but can't guarantee that. Mounts are good, doing the cutless bearing.
Just did this exact project. How do you know the mounts are good?
I will see if I can find my slip from the shop that did the shaft to get you the length. I went with the stainless steel shaft and a split coupling. Total cost with fit and facing was $550.
I used a 4x4 across the companion way and a come-a-long to lift the engine.
The project wasn't too bad.
I will see if I can find my slip from the shop that did the shaft to get you the length. I went with the stainless steel shaft and a split coupling. Total cost with fit and facing was $550.
I used a 4x4 across the companion way and a come-a-long to lift the engine.
The project wasn't too bad.
I'd appreciate that. Want to make sure it's right! I'm going with the same....Buck Algonquin split coupling and Aquamet SS shaft. Warren said it was standard taper aft and no taper at the coupling.....is that correct? I haven't been able to get the coupling off to confirm! Mounts are only 5 years old.
You may want to get a quote from General propeller in Bradenton Fl it may save you some money ...it won't hurt to get a quote so check it out based on JK_B price i would say as much as $150.00.....
i have no financial gain in telling you this ...its just a good source......good luck...
regards
woody
i have no financial gain in telling you this ...its just a good source......good luck...
regards
woody
Yes, dug a hole in the boat yard about a foot deep. Thought about having it hoisted but given it was dirt and rocks, the hole was easier and cheaper. Not a bad job that with replacing the CB took about 3 hours as I recall. Checked shaft allignment after the boat was back in the water.
I checked my receipt and it didn't have a length on it. My boat went back in the water yesterday so I can't measure it.
The $500 cost broke down like this: SS shaft $150; split coupling $85; $200 to fit and face the coupling and lap fit the prop; $65 to fit my Shaft Shark line cutter. They also made new keys for both the prop and the coupling. I used Rosie's Marine in Gloucester MA based on recommendations for MaineSail (on previous posts of fit and facing) and a friend who works in the industry. They did great work and I am very satisfied with the project.
I did the cutlass bearing using the method MaineSail has on his Compass Marine site. Took about 1.5 hours total. Well worth the $50 in parts to do now. Mine was only 3 years old but I did it anyways since the shaft was out.
I also did the dampener plate and changed to a PSS dripless adapter. It was nice to be back afloat yesterday and still have a bone dry bilge. If you have a traditional stuffing box, I would replace the hose on the stern tube also since that would be an easy job with the shaft out.
The alignment after kind of sucked. That took me about 4 hours to get right. But I replaced all 4 motor mounts and put in spacers on the front mounts so they weren't near the top of the bolt. Now that the boat is floating again I have to check and probably realign it.
The $500 cost broke down like this: SS shaft $150; split coupling $85; $200 to fit and face the coupling and lap fit the prop; $65 to fit my Shaft Shark line cutter. They also made new keys for both the prop and the coupling. I used Rosie's Marine in Gloucester MA based on recommendations for MaineSail (on previous posts of fit and facing) and a friend who works in the industry. They did great work and I am very satisfied with the project.
I did the cutlass bearing using the method MaineSail has on his Compass Marine site. Took about 1.5 hours total. Well worth the $50 in parts to do now. Mine was only 3 years old but I did it anyways since the shaft was out.
I also did the dampener plate and changed to a PSS dripless adapter. It was nice to be back afloat yesterday and still have a bone dry bilge. If you have a traditional stuffing box, I would replace the hose on the stern tube also since that would be an easy job with the shaft out.
The alignment after kind of sucked. That took me about 4 hours to get right. But I replaced all 4 motor mounts and put in spacers on the front mounts so they weren't near the top of the bolt. Now that the boat is floating again I have to check and probably realign it.
Jesse,
Went back and forth with Andrew over the past two weeks with measurements and instructions just to make sure we had it right. Finalized the order Friday and the thing arrived today. Prop fit so it should be good to go! They were wonderful to work with over the phone and email and i got exactly what I wanted for less than budgeted. Now for the fun part....good news is now I'm well ahead of schedule! Thanks for the referral!
Great news. I took mine out for the first time this weekend and couldn't be happier.
Having our prop shaft replaced this week and the yard is convinced the new shaft will be able to go in without removing the rudder or lifting the motor since they will have the cutlass bearing out...giving them more room. The old shaft did come out this way. The folks at Catalina agree this should work.
Any one with experience trying this?
Any one with experience trying this?
Just did it. It absolutely will not go in without either dropping the rudder, or as others have suggested and I did thanks to those suggestions, lift the engine. Remove your bulkhead aft of the engine and disconnect the hose attached to the mixing elbow and it should lift right up. The pic was from BEFORE I decided not to be lazy and remove the bulkhead.
Attachments
I did the same but I didn't have to remove the bulk head. Last year I made a bump-out behind the engine with a removable panel. I allows air between the bulkhead and the mixing elbow and allows for much easier access to items on the back of the engine, like the transmission fluid.
http://svsmitty.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/img_0935.jpg
http://svsmitty.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/img_0938.jpg
http://svsmitty.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/img_0918.jpg
Very nicely done....if we were keeping the boat that is an upgrade I think I would add.
I purchased Rummerful from Scott B and she will be moved to Apollo Beach, Fl shortly. Based on the short time that it took the mechanic to replace the shaft, he could not have removed the rudder. I know he did not lift the engine since the nuts look untouched. Warren at Catalina told me that he thought the removal of the cutlass bearing would do the trick and apparently it did.
Having done it myself I can confirm that if you push out the cutless bearing, the shaft will slip by the rudder. Not a lot of room to spare but it does.
How did you remove the bulkhead and more important how did it go back in?
It doesn't appear obvious
Thanks
Peter
In case dropping the rudder is a better alternative see picture of the "hole in the ground" method.
