I have a '88 30T with a Yanmar 18HP diesel. I had a noise during motoring when I purchased the boat. The surveyor thought it was the engine alignment. Today I had a mechanic look at it. He told me not to bother with the alignment as the prop shaff is bent and I should replace it with a new stainless one. I figure while I do/or have this done it would make sense to replace the stuffing box with the pss dripless shaft and a new cutlass bearing. I know the boat must be removed from the water to install these items. Has anyone ever replaced the prop shaft themselves? If so what is the difficulty level. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks
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Shart R and R
On many of these vessels you have to remove the rudder to pull the shaft. This can be done when it's high in the travel lift or else you'll have to dig a hole. It is frequently difficult to get some of the hardware off the rudder if it's been exposed to salt water. Another option sometimes used is to remove the strut instead of the rudder. The next challenge is to get the coupling off the shaft. If your shaft is really junk many folks just cut it to get it out. Then you can use a press on the coupling. My h34 had a bronze shaft for 20+ years. Many shafts can be straightened by a shop with proper equipment. Sure change the cutlass bearing if you change the shaft but I would forget the dripless system. It's over rated, very overprice and won't last as long as a stuffing box. You'll be spending money on it again in the future. You hired the mechanic for a one hour job and he wants to turn it in to over a thousand bucks. I'd verify the shaft is really bent before I wrote that check. Beg, borrow or buy a dial indicator, set it up in the bilge and turn the shaft by hand.
On many of these vessels you have to remove the rudder to pull the shaft. This can be done when it's high in the travel lift or else you'll have to dig a hole. It is frequently difficult to get some of the hardware off the rudder if it's been exposed to salt water. Another option sometimes used is to remove the strut instead of the rudder. The next challenge is to get the coupling off the shaft. If your shaft is really junk many folks just cut it to get it out. Then you can use a press on the coupling. My h34 had a bronze shaft for 20+ years. Many shafts can be straightened by a shop with proper equipment. Sure change the cutlass bearing if you change the shaft but I would forget the dripless system. It's over rated, very overprice and won't last as long as a stuffing box. You'll be spending money on it again in the future. You hired the mechanic for a one hour job and he wants to turn it in to over a thousand bucks. I'd verify the shaft is really bent before I wrote that check. Beg, borrow or buy a dial indicator, set it up in the bilge and turn the shaft by hand.
I've replaced mine, TWICE!
Both were bronze, now it's monel. (H34) Unless you know the history of your bronze shaft, it may well be bent. You might ask the mechanic what test he used to determine the diagnosis. The first shaft I had, was ruined because the #@$%& dealer didn't install the key in the coupling. The jerk! It came loose and we lost drive while trying to go under a local low bridge that had only one spot to pass underneath. The tide was also on flood at four knots. We just made it or we would have lost the rig. I replaced the shaft myself. The dealer paid for everything including my labor. The jerk! Anyway, when the boat was in the slings, I put the engine in gear and let the shaft cut itself off with my hacksaw. The coupling was ruined too. When the replacement shaft was found to be bent during a haul-out on Keywest, I went with monel. The damage to the second shaft had been caused by drunk guests that let a halyard go overboard and then put the engine in gear. Don't ask! I've told that story here once and that's enough. That shaft was removed with the rudder installed. The prop has to be removed first. Then the coupling has to be pressed off the shaft before it passes through the shaft log. I built a home made press out of bolts and socket wrenches. It's a pain. At the time, I thought the shaft was savable. Should have just cut it off. Also, for packing, I use that putty-like stuff called 'Lastdrop' I believe. Most marine stores carry it. Costs $35. It's been working for over 16 years on two different shafts with no service required. I haven't even needed to tighten the adjusting nut. And it hasn't leaked a drop of water. The shaft spins free. A perfect product. What else? Daryl suggested strut removal instead of dropping the rudder. That's my first choice too unless the rudder needs work.
Both were bronze, now it's monel. (H34) Unless you know the history of your bronze shaft, it may well be bent. You might ask the mechanic what test he used to determine the diagnosis. The first shaft I had, was ruined because the #@$%& dealer didn't install the key in the coupling. The jerk! It came loose and we lost drive while trying to go under a local low bridge that had only one spot to pass underneath. The tide was also on flood at four knots. We just made it or we would have lost the rig. I replaced the shaft myself. The dealer paid for everything including my labor. The jerk! Anyway, when the boat was in the slings, I put the engine in gear and let the shaft cut itself off with my hacksaw. The coupling was ruined too. When the replacement shaft was found to be bent during a haul-out on Keywest, I went with monel. The damage to the second shaft had been caused by drunk guests that let a halyard go overboard and then put the engine in gear. Don't ask! I've told that story here once and that's enough. That shaft was removed with the rudder installed. The prop has to be removed first. Then the coupling has to be pressed off the shaft before it passes through the shaft log. I built a home made press out of bolts and socket wrenches. It's a pain. At the time, I thought the shaft was savable. Should have just cut it off. Also, for packing, I use that putty-like stuff called 'Lastdrop' I believe. Most marine stores carry it. Costs $35. It's been working for over 16 years on two different shafts with no service required. I haven't even needed to tighten the adjusting nut. And it hasn't leaked a drop of water. The shaft spins free. A perfect product. What else? Daryl suggested strut removal instead of dropping the rudder. That's my first choice too unless the rudder needs work.
I like tthat idea
Thanks Fred, I like the idea of putting it in gear and letting it cut itself off. Did you do this while it was on the sling in the water- so you still had water flow for cooling- or did you rig a water supply to the raw water once she was out of the water? I believe I am going to replace it. If I may ask what did the shaft run you? How long did it take to cut the old one and reinstall the new one? Time enough to leave it on the slings then set it back in or was she out the day? Thanks Bob
Thanks Fred, I like the idea of putting it in gear and letting it cut itself off. Did you do this while it was on the sling in the water- so you still had water flow for cooling- or did you rig a water supply to the raw water once she was out of the water? I believe I am going to replace it. If I may ask what did the shaft run you? How long did it take to cut the old one and reinstall the new one? Time enough to leave it on the slings then set it back in or was she out the day? Thanks Bob
Did mine last year
but I don't know your boat. Mine was not too bad to get out. I had to remove the cutless bearing to clear the rudder using a pipe. Once had to get one fixed in a Beneteau. To remove it would require pulling the engine so we got it straightened in place. I like my dripless seal. Never tried or heard of the stuff Fred mentioned.
but I don't know your boat. Mine was not too bad to get out. I had to remove the cutless bearing to clear the rudder using a pipe. Once had to get one fixed in a Beneteau. To remove it would require pulling the engine so we got it straightened in place. I like my dripless seal. Never tried or heard of the stuff Fred mentioned.
Bob, The details are lost in time.
That was in '86. I recall having the boat secure in the slings so she wouldn't move and the engine water intake still submerged. I'm not sure which way the shaft turns, forward or reverse when the saw blade is cutting but the shaft has to turn toward the teeth, of course. My shaft is only an inch in diameter and we replaced it without blocking and bracing the hull. (it was out and right back in) This summer the travel lift driver reminded me of that story when we re-pitched the prop. P.S. Bob, VERY IMPORTANT!! Do NOT let the saw cut ALL THE WAY THROUGH! This is a grease monkey, hot rodder, kind of job. You have to be comfortable around moving machinery. And if you cut all the way, with power on, it's gotta hurt somewhere or someone. Might even slam the prop against the rudder or ?
That was in '86. I recall having the boat secure in the slings so she wouldn't move and the engine water intake still submerged. I'm not sure which way the shaft turns, forward or reverse when the saw blade is cutting but the shaft has to turn toward the teeth, of course. My shaft is only an inch in diameter and we replaced it without blocking and bracing the hull. (it was out and right back in) This summer the travel lift driver reminded me of that story when we re-pitched the prop. P.S. Bob, VERY IMPORTANT!! Do NOT let the saw cut ALL THE WAY THROUGH! This is a grease monkey, hot rodder, kind of job. You have to be comfortable around moving machinery. And if you cut all the way, with power on, it's gotta hurt somewhere or someone. Might even slam the prop against the rudder or ?
Patrick, here is the evil empires version.
Like I said, most stores sell the stuff for half that price.
Like I said, most stores sell the stuff for half that price.
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