Hey all, Any help and/or advice on any of the above is greatly apreciated. My mechanic has flaked out and I will need to replace the rudder, cutless bearing and prop shaft myself. Rudder: The boat is on stands now and I am assuming that I will have the yard lift the boat so I can insert the rudder shaft and then lower it back down until the plastic doughnut on the top of the rudder is in contact with the bushing glassed into the hull. The rudder shaft will not be drilled. Will I have to mark it in place then pull it out to drill it? I don't think there will be enough room to drill it out while it is in the quadrant. Should I grease the shaft? The boat is on asphalt. Cutless bearing: The original has been cut out. The original set screws have been drilled out. I'm assuming I will drill new holes and tap them for new set screws. Any suggestions on size and material? Stainless? Brass? Fill the old holes? Tap them for bigger set screws? I'm planning on a threaded rod, washers and bolts to pull the cutless bearing into the strut. Shaft: Once the cutless bearing is in I will push the shaft through the strut and into the shaft log. I have a new packing box and hose and I think I have that part covered. I will then attach the coupling to the shaft and the coupling to the transmission flange. I am going to buy some feeler gauges and do a preliminary alignment check. My slip is only about 100 yrds from the travel lift. Unless the alignment is way off I will let the boat rest in the water for a week before I do the final alignment. I've never done this before. Is this something for a do it yourselfer? Have I missed anything? Any tips, tricks, special tools, resources or advice? My yard is charging me $60/day storage and they charge $20/ft per lift for the travel lift. I don't want to pay the storage to wait for a mechanic and I don't want to have to pull the boat again...Arrrrrggggghhhhh! Thank you in advance, Tim Lake Tahoe 1989 Hunter 30G
Prop shaft, cutless bearing and rudder replacement
- Thread starter Tim22902
- Start date
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Just did all those things
I was fortunate that while my boat was in the cradle (on gravel) I only had to dig out about 6 inches to drop the rudder. Now that it is on stands, I can't put it back in and will have to do it while it is in the slings prior to launch. I don't know the best way to tell you to drill your holes in the post - other than start small and drill very slowly - once you go too fast the stainless hardens and it's really tough to drill. Work your way up through a couple sizes to get to your finished size. I would think you would need some sort of fixture to keep the holes from elongating - hopefully someone else can comment on that. The threaded rod should work for the cutless bearing. I used stainless setscrews because my strut is bronze. Our O'day 34 has a zerk fitting in the fiberglass rudder tube for a grease gun. If you don't have this, I would grease it before installation. I had a new stainless propshaft made, and had the shop face the flange on the shaft to make sure it was true. I don't know if your shaft is new or not, but I would make sure you can get the flange on the shaft (with the key in place) before you have it in the boat. It's not much fun getting it in there and finding out you can't get the flange on. I did what you did - a rough alignment while it was on the stands. It goes in tomorrow, and I will let it sit for the weekend in the water before doing a final alignment. None of this stuff was rocket science, it just takes a little patience and thought. -- Scott
I was fortunate that while my boat was in the cradle (on gravel) I only had to dig out about 6 inches to drop the rudder. Now that it is on stands, I can't put it back in and will have to do it while it is in the slings prior to launch. I don't know the best way to tell you to drill your holes in the post - other than start small and drill very slowly - once you go too fast the stainless hardens and it's really tough to drill. Work your way up through a couple sizes to get to your finished size. I would think you would need some sort of fixture to keep the holes from elongating - hopefully someone else can comment on that. The threaded rod should work for the cutless bearing. I used stainless setscrews because my strut is bronze. Our O'day 34 has a zerk fitting in the fiberglass rudder tube for a grease gun. If you don't have this, I would grease it before installation. I had a new stainless propshaft made, and had the shop face the flange on the shaft to make sure it was true. I don't know if your shaft is new or not, but I would make sure you can get the flange on the shaft (with the key in place) before you have it in the boat. It's not much fun getting it in there and finding out you can't get the flange on. I did what you did - a rough alignment while it was on the stands. It goes in tomorrow, and I will let it sit for the weekend in the water before doing a final alignment. None of this stuff was rocket science, it just takes a little patience and thought. -- Scott
Give yourself a present - get a marine specialist
Tim, Your boat is on the "hard". Apparently from your questions and comments you have little past experience and mechanical skills to accomplish your tasks. Let's put this into perspective. Your boat doesn't have a rudder installed (nor aligned, tested or sealed), the cutlass bearing and strut are in questionable condition (which will require major rework) and you have a new stuffing/packing nut package to install (and hopefully all aligned with the shaft). This is not work for the weekend boater, unless you've done this before and have the tools and know-how. Remember Murphy? Something will happen (usually bad) when you least expect it. Ok. What's the solution. If you're concerned with the daily yard fee, consider relaunching (if watertight) and waiting until you can arrange to have the right person there to do the job. If you can't relaunch, get on the phones quickly and get some help. Trying to do a difficult set of problems all at once, with little experience is just asking for more trouble. Boating is expensive. Cut expenses on those jobs you can do yourself, and leave the rest to someone who does it for a living. Best of luck.
Tim, Your boat is on the "hard". Apparently from your questions and comments you have little past experience and mechanical skills to accomplish your tasks. Let's put this into perspective. Your boat doesn't have a rudder installed (nor aligned, tested or sealed), the cutlass bearing and strut are in questionable condition (which will require major rework) and you have a new stuffing/packing nut package to install (and hopefully all aligned with the shaft). This is not work for the weekend boater, unless you've done this before and have the tools and know-how. Remember Murphy? Something will happen (usually bad) when you least expect it. Ok. What's the solution. If you're concerned with the daily yard fee, consider relaunching (if watertight) and waiting until you can arrange to have the right person there to do the job. If you can't relaunch, get on the phones quickly and get some help. Trying to do a difficult set of problems all at once, with little experience is just asking for more trouble. Boating is expensive. Cut expenses on those jobs you can do yourself, and leave the rest to someone who does it for a living. Best of luck.
You can do it
None of this is rocket science and it is in the realm of anyone who is reasonably good with their hands. Set screws: I would choose the next size larger than what was there originally - drill out and tap the old holes and use a stainless set screw. Alignment: I have done this once and had no problem. It sounds to me like you have it covered. Your plan sounds good to me. Rudder shaft: If you have your old one, that should allow you a pattern from which to drill. Greasing the shaft won't hurt and is probably a good idea. If you end up having to drill your own hole, be sure to go slow. If you go too fast, the stainless will heat up and harden and you will never get through it. Drilling stainless is really a matter of chipping away the material. A rudder shaft will take a bit of time, I think.
None of this is rocket science and it is in the realm of anyone who is reasonably good with their hands. Set screws: I would choose the next size larger than what was there originally - drill out and tap the old holes and use a stainless set screw. Alignment: I have done this once and had no problem. It sounds to me like you have it covered. Your plan sounds good to me. Rudder shaft: If you have your old one, that should allow you a pattern from which to drill. Greasing the shaft won't hurt and is probably a good idea. If you end up having to drill your own hole, be sure to go slow. If you go too fast, the stainless will heat up and harden and you will never get through it. Drilling stainless is really a matter of chipping away the material. A rudder shaft will take a bit of time, I think.
Wow...talk about two different views!
First off, thank both of you for taking the time to reply. With such different opinions I would really like some additional input. Ron M: "Apparently from your questions and comments you have little past experience and mechanical skills to accomplish your tasks." No, I have not performed these tasks before but I would place my mechanical skills to be above the average do-it-yourself person. "Let's put this into perspective. Your boat doesn't have a rudder installed (nor aligned, tested or sealed)" In my boat the rudder tube is of the sealed fiberglass type with a plastic bushing at the top and bottom. The top of the rudder tube is above the waterline. No "sealing" will be required. Is there any alchemy to the "aligning and testing" that I might not be prepared for? "the cutlass bearing and strut are in questionable condition (which will require major rework)." The cutlEss bearing has been removed and I have the replacement in hand. The strut is in fine shape with the exception of the drilled out set screws. There is no electrolysis or play in the stut. My question was whether or not to tap the larger holes for the set screws or relocate them. No "major rework" will be required. "you have a new stuffing/packing nut package to install (and hopefully all aligned with the shaft)." The stuffing box will be connected to the shaft log with a marine exhaust hose with two ss hose clamps with the screws oriented 180 degrees from each other. The other end of the hose will be connected to the stuffing box with the same clamp configuration. The stuffing box itself is free-floating and will align itself with the shaft, so this statement confuses me. I have the goretex braided material of proper size. I will be using three rings, staggering the joints. I have reviewed "main sail's" project pictures which are very complete (thank you MainSail) More clarification please. "If you're concerned with the daily yard fee, consider relaunching (if watertight) and waiting until you can arrange to have the right person there to do the job." As stated in my post my yard charges $20/ft/lift. In and out for a 30' boat is $1200.00. This is not an option. "Give yourself a present - get a marine specialist" I am in an area of limited boating. If I was in San Francisco or Yorktown VA this would be an option for me. The mechanic that has flaked on me was one of the more recommended people in the area. Last week I had a bit of a pissing match with him regarding whether or not the shaft can be properly aligned while the boat was on the hard. When I talked about the hull flexing etc. he looked at me like I was crazy. I really have had it up to my ears with "specialists". It might take me longer than a pro but I will at least know that it is done right. The only person one can truly count is is one's self. Please don't take my reply to be an argument. Just a discussion. Have you tried and failed the above tasks? Have you performed them a number of times and were not capable without assistance the first few times? Scott: My prop shaft is new and the flange has been machined. I've already had the flange on and off with the key in it. How did you install your new cutless bearing? Any more input as far as surprises that I might run into would be great. I will have some help but the guy is an auto mechanic and will need to be directed. Thanks again! Tim
First off, thank both of you for taking the time to reply. With such different opinions I would really like some additional input. Ron M: "Apparently from your questions and comments you have little past experience and mechanical skills to accomplish your tasks." No, I have not performed these tasks before but I would place my mechanical skills to be above the average do-it-yourself person. "Let's put this into perspective. Your boat doesn't have a rudder installed (nor aligned, tested or sealed)" In my boat the rudder tube is of the sealed fiberglass type with a plastic bushing at the top and bottom. The top of the rudder tube is above the waterline. No "sealing" will be required. Is there any alchemy to the "aligning and testing" that I might not be prepared for? "the cutlass bearing and strut are in questionable condition (which will require major rework)." The cutlEss bearing has been removed and I have the replacement in hand. The strut is in fine shape with the exception of the drilled out set screws. There is no electrolysis or play in the stut. My question was whether or not to tap the larger holes for the set screws or relocate them. No "major rework" will be required. "you have a new stuffing/packing nut package to install (and hopefully all aligned with the shaft)." The stuffing box will be connected to the shaft log with a marine exhaust hose with two ss hose clamps with the screws oriented 180 degrees from each other. The other end of the hose will be connected to the stuffing box with the same clamp configuration. The stuffing box itself is free-floating and will align itself with the shaft, so this statement confuses me. I have the goretex braided material of proper size. I will be using three rings, staggering the joints. I have reviewed "main sail's" project pictures which are very complete (thank you MainSail) More clarification please. "If you're concerned with the daily yard fee, consider relaunching (if watertight) and waiting until you can arrange to have the right person there to do the job." As stated in my post my yard charges $20/ft/lift. In and out for a 30' boat is $1200.00. This is not an option. "Give yourself a present - get a marine specialist" I am in an area of limited boating. If I was in San Francisco or Yorktown VA this would be an option for me. The mechanic that has flaked on me was one of the more recommended people in the area. Last week I had a bit of a pissing match with him regarding whether or not the shaft can be properly aligned while the boat was on the hard. When I talked about the hull flexing etc. he looked at me like I was crazy. I really have had it up to my ears with "specialists". It might take me longer than a pro but I will at least know that it is done right. The only person one can truly count is is one's self. Please don't take my reply to be an argument. Just a discussion. Have you tried and failed the above tasks? Have you performed them a number of times and were not capable without assistance the first few times? Scott: My prop shaft is new and the flange has been machined. I've already had the flange on and off with the key in it. How did you install your new cutless bearing? Any more input as far as surprises that I might run into would be great. I will have some help but the guy is an auto mechanic and will need to be directed. Thanks again! Tim
rudder shaft cutlass brg replacement
Make sure you replace cutlass bearing then shaft before you refit rudder or you may not get the shaft in past the rudder. Contact me at patrickthomson410@shaw.ca we commission Catalinas and service older(experienced) ones.
Make sure you replace cutlass bearing then shaft before you refit rudder or you may not get the shaft in past the rudder. Contact me at patrickthomson410@shaw.ca we commission Catalinas and service older(experienced) ones.
My cutless bearing
Tim, I wouldn't advise the method I used. I did mine in the middle of a COLD winter here in Wisconsin. I heated up the strut with a torch, and slid the frigid bearing right in by hand. In retrospect, I wonder how good that was for the rubber part of the bearing, but it didn't show any signs of a problem. The strut is so thick, it certainly wasn't critically hot. I had started fabrication of a tool to extract it with the shaft in place, but then when I discovered the moisture in my rudder and removed that, I decided to pull the shaft - discovered it was bent and worn, so replaced that, along with the engine mounts, packing gland, and while I was at it I had the prop reconditioned. Talk about project creep!
Tim, I wouldn't advise the method I used. I did mine in the middle of a COLD winter here in Wisconsin. I heated up the strut with a torch, and slid the frigid bearing right in by hand. In retrospect, I wonder how good that was for the rubber part of the bearing, but it didn't show any signs of a problem. The strut is so thick, it certainly wasn't critically hot. I had started fabrication of a tool to extract it with the shaft in place, but then when I discovered the moisture in my rudder and removed that, I decided to pull the shaft - discovered it was bent and worn, so replaced that, along with the engine mounts, packing gland, and while I was at it I had the prop reconditioned. Talk about project creep!
Don't feel bad
I just had major project creep to the same extent. Pulled my boat to replace my through hulls and PSS. While changing from through hulls with ball valves to flanged sea cocks I re-plumbed half the boat! Total project cost for materials alone was just over $830.00 Then while removing the coupling from my shaft I got PB Blaster on my transmission output seal and ruined it to the tune of an $800.00 re-build/seal. Then I noticed mu shaft was slightly worn around the cutlass so I am replacing the shaft & coupling & cutlass too and having the prop re-conditioned. Oh well these things happen it's a boat!! One nice thing about my v-drive transmision is that I can remove the shaft by pulling it into the boat once the prop is off without having to drop the rudder..
I just had major project creep to the same extent. Pulled my boat to replace my through hulls and PSS. While changing from through hulls with ball valves to flanged sea cocks I re-plumbed half the boat! Total project cost for materials alone was just over $830.00 Then while removing the coupling from my shaft I got PB Blaster on my transmission output seal and ruined it to the tune of an $800.00 re-build/seal. Then I noticed mu shaft was slightly worn around the cutlass so I am replacing the shaft & coupling & cutlass too and having the prop re-conditioned. Oh well these things happen it's a boat!! One nice thing about my v-drive transmision is that I can remove the shaft by pulling it into the boat once the prop is off without having to drop the rudder..
Rudder replacement
I can only comment on jobs that I have actually performed myself. I did replace my own rudder on a 89 Cat 30. This particular year was very strange as the rudder sits inside a tube with no stuffing box or bearings. Even the folks at Edson could not believe this until they pulled the drawings for that year. I elected to dry fit the rudder and place the Radial Drive Wheel in place. I then marked the hole for the through bolt. I then took the entire rudder to a local machine shop and had them drill through the stainless of the rudder shaft. The machine shop charged $35.00 for the work, it only took one day and the work was perfect. I would have burned out a few drills and gone through a few drill bits, therefore the $35.00 was well spent. On your other projects, I elected to have my yard do the Cutless Bearing last season and so far my shaft is OK. Good luck, and ad others have suggested only do the work you feel comfortable performing. As in my case, seek outside help when necessary. You still save a fortune, and more important you know the job was done right, because you did it yoursrlf. And as a previous post on another topic pointed out, no one cares about your boat as much as you do.
I can only comment on jobs that I have actually performed myself. I did replace my own rudder on a 89 Cat 30. This particular year was very strange as the rudder sits inside a tube with no stuffing box or bearings. Even the folks at Edson could not believe this until they pulled the drawings for that year. I elected to dry fit the rudder and place the Radial Drive Wheel in place. I then marked the hole for the through bolt. I then took the entire rudder to a local machine shop and had them drill through the stainless of the rudder shaft. The machine shop charged $35.00 for the work, it only took one day and the work was perfect. I would have burned out a few drills and gone through a few drill bits, therefore the $35.00 was well spent. On your other projects, I elected to have my yard do the Cutless Bearing last season and so far my shaft is OK. Good luck, and ad others have suggested only do the work you feel comfortable performing. As in my case, seek outside help when necessary. You still save a fortune, and more important you know the job was done right, because you did it yoursrlf. And as a previous post on another topic pointed out, no one cares about your boat as much as you do.
Saw this too.
Quote: "The stuffing box will be connected to the shaft log with a marine exhaust hose with two ss hose clamps with the screws oriented 180 degrees from each other. The other end of the hose will be connected to the stuffing box with the same clamp configuration. The stuffing box itself is free-floating and will align itself with the shaft, so this statement confuses me. I have the goretex braided material of proper size. I will be using three rings, staggering the joints. I have reviewed "main sail's" project pictures which are very complete (thank you MainSail) More clarification please." Stuffing box hose is different from wet exhaust hose and considerably thicker. It's alos not available "off the shelf" at marine stores. DO NOT use wet exhaust hose! Call a prop shop and get the proper hose for a stuffing box or try Buck Algonquin they make stuffing boxes and should be able to tell you where to find the right hose or the part number of it. Stuffing boxes are NOT free floating. This is a big assumption many make because the hose is somewhat flexible. True stuffing box hose is very thick and quite rigid. With the proper hose they can in fact be out of alignment with the shaft and wear the shaft unevenly. You must take every possible measure to properly align your stuffing box with the shaft log. Sometimes it has taken me six or seven tries of adjusting and re-tightening the clamps. The problem is that when you tighten it the hose moves so you need to figure out which direction it moves with your clamp orientation and compensate accordingly until it's aligned..
Quote: "The stuffing box will be connected to the shaft log with a marine exhaust hose with two ss hose clamps with the screws oriented 180 degrees from each other. The other end of the hose will be connected to the stuffing box with the same clamp configuration. The stuffing box itself is free-floating and will align itself with the shaft, so this statement confuses me. I have the goretex braided material of proper size. I will be using three rings, staggering the joints. I have reviewed "main sail's" project pictures which are very complete (thank you MainSail) More clarification please." Stuffing box hose is different from wet exhaust hose and considerably thicker. It's alos not available "off the shelf" at marine stores. DO NOT use wet exhaust hose! Call a prop shop and get the proper hose for a stuffing box or try Buck Algonquin they make stuffing boxes and should be able to tell you where to find the right hose or the part number of it. Stuffing boxes are NOT free floating. This is a big assumption many make because the hose is somewhat flexible. True stuffing box hose is very thick and quite rigid. With the proper hose they can in fact be out of alignment with the shaft and wear the shaft unevenly. You must take every possible measure to properly align your stuffing box with the shaft log. Sometimes it has taken me six or seven tries of adjusting and re-tightening the clamps. The problem is that when you tighten it the hose moves so you need to figure out which direction it moves with your clamp orientation and compensate accordingly until it's aligned..
From the beginning .....
Those set screws in the cutless bearing housing are only for 'safety' if everything else goes wrong - such as the bearing / strut overheats and changes diameter dimension which will release the cutless. The set screws are not meant to 'restrain' the cutless bearing for operation, only to hold the cutless in case it overheats. Such plain bearings are 'set' with an intereference fit or 'press fit' ... meaning that the bearing is slightly LARGER than the strut bore into which it fits. Its this 'press fit' that holds the bearing in the housing. Typical dimensions of the cutless will be 0.001" (LARGER) per inch of housing diameter. Dont ream-out, etc. the strut bore to allow the cutless to 'slide-fit' into the bore. You can redrill + tap for new set screws ... or take the easy way out and use RED Loctite, but will need to HEAT the cutless and strut when you need to remove it in the future. ..... when removing a cutless you usually 'crush' it in the removal process so it really doesnt matter. Installation can be by 'pressing' with 'threaded drill rods and fender washers ... put some light oil in the strut bore before drawing the cutless into the strut to aid in the 'press' of the cutless. Make sure that the strut bore has a slight 'chamfer' ... a teeny zone at the entrance of the bore at 45 degrees to aid the 'strart' of the 'pressing' of the bearing into the bore. To align the shaft to the cutless .... install the shaft, then center the shaft into the stuffing box to be sure that the shaft is *dead center* (eyeball close) in the stuffing box.... restrain it there with wooden wedges, etc. THEN align the engine TO the shaft in its neutral position (no packing in the stuiffing box). When the alignment is complete/perfect, THEN apply packing into the stuffing box (GFO braided all-PTFE packing if you can find it). Doing it in this sequence will insure that the shaft is running in the CENTER of the stuffing box ... and correctly aligned in the cutless journal. The shaft should be taken to a machinist to have the journal (stuffing box and cutless areas) 'dressed' to insure that all surface pitting, ridges, and surface roughness is removed and that the journal surface area is 'true'. Dressing will insure long life for the cutless and the packing. If the dressing removes a lot of shaft surface at the area of the cutless you may need to get a smaller ID cutless. You might also have the machinist check the shaft for 'runout' (bent shaft) .... the runout shouldnt be more than ~0.003" over its total span length .... especiallly important if youre not using a drive saver or flex coupler at the transmission flange. A shaft that has excessive runout is subject to develop 'shaft whip' (banging sound) when running a full load. After the boat has been in the water for about a month , the rigging has been properly tensioned and has 'settled' into its 'water supported' shape then you can re-check for shaft (coupler) alignment to insure a perfectly aligned shaft. This is an 'easy' job if you just take your time and are 'precise'. hope this helps.
Those set screws in the cutless bearing housing are only for 'safety' if everything else goes wrong - such as the bearing / strut overheats and changes diameter dimension which will release the cutless. The set screws are not meant to 'restrain' the cutless bearing for operation, only to hold the cutless in case it overheats. Such plain bearings are 'set' with an intereference fit or 'press fit' ... meaning that the bearing is slightly LARGER than the strut bore into which it fits. Its this 'press fit' that holds the bearing in the housing. Typical dimensions of the cutless will be 0.001" (LARGER) per inch of housing diameter. Dont ream-out, etc. the strut bore to allow the cutless to 'slide-fit' into the bore. You can redrill + tap for new set screws ... or take the easy way out and use RED Loctite, but will need to HEAT the cutless and strut when you need to remove it in the future. ..... when removing a cutless you usually 'crush' it in the removal process so it really doesnt matter. Installation can be by 'pressing' with 'threaded drill rods and fender washers ... put some light oil in the strut bore before drawing the cutless into the strut to aid in the 'press' of the cutless. Make sure that the strut bore has a slight 'chamfer' ... a teeny zone at the entrance of the bore at 45 degrees to aid the 'strart' of the 'pressing' of the bearing into the bore. To align the shaft to the cutless .... install the shaft, then center the shaft into the stuffing box to be sure that the shaft is *dead center* (eyeball close) in the stuffing box.... restrain it there with wooden wedges, etc. THEN align the engine TO the shaft in its neutral position (no packing in the stuiffing box). When the alignment is complete/perfect, THEN apply packing into the stuffing box (GFO braided all-PTFE packing if you can find it). Doing it in this sequence will insure that the shaft is running in the CENTER of the stuffing box ... and correctly aligned in the cutless journal. The shaft should be taken to a machinist to have the journal (stuffing box and cutless areas) 'dressed' to insure that all surface pitting, ridges, and surface roughness is removed and that the journal surface area is 'true'. Dressing will insure long life for the cutless and the packing. If the dressing removes a lot of shaft surface at the area of the cutless you may need to get a smaller ID cutless. You might also have the machinist check the shaft for 'runout' (bent shaft) .... the runout shouldnt be more than ~0.003" over its total span length .... especiallly important if youre not using a drive saver or flex coupler at the transmission flange. A shaft that has excessive runout is subject to develop 'shaft whip' (banging sound) when running a full load. After the boat has been in the water for about a month , the rigging has been properly tensioned and has 'settled' into its 'water supported' shape then you can re-check for shaft (coupler) alignment to insure a perfectly aligned shaft. This is an 'easy' job if you just take your time and are 'precise'. hope this helps.
Thanks Main Sail.......
The Buck Algonquin stuffing box that I purchased came as a complete unit with the proper hose and clamps. Thanks for the tip about getting the stuffing box lined up with the shaft log. With that in mind, should I fit the coupling to the transmission flange before I fit and adjust the stuffing box? Obviously I understand that the stuffing box will have to be on the shaft before I do this but I'm speaking of the final alignment and tightening of the stuffing box. Thanks! Tim
The Buck Algonquin stuffing box that I purchased came as a complete unit with the proper hose and clamps. Thanks for the tip about getting the stuffing box lined up with the shaft log. With that in mind, should I fit the coupling to the transmission flange before I fit and adjust the stuffing box? Obviously I understand that the stuffing box will have to be on the shaft before I do this but I'm speaking of the final alignment and tightening of the stuffing box. Thanks! Tim
Just lift the rudder
Save a buck. Don't have the yard lower the boat. Dig a hole and lift the rudder at your convience rather than pay the operator hourly rate.
Save a buck. Don't have the yard lower the boat. Dig a hole and lift the rudder at your convience rather than pay the operator hourly rate.
Hi Rich...
....A couple of things: With RED loctite the set screws are not necessary? If I oil the strut bore will that interfere with the performence of the loctite? The shaft is SS and new. I've inspected it carefully and it appears to be pefect. The old one was bent and grooved and an example of what happens when you over tighten the packing box. It was fabricated by my prop shop and the guy is a true craftsman. I have the GFO PTFE braided packing. Your "laying out" of the proper sequence is a big help. Thanks again for your time. Once again I am humbled by this board. Tim
....A couple of things: With RED loctite the set screws are not necessary? If I oil the strut bore will that interfere with the performence of the loctite? The shaft is SS and new. I've inspected it carefully and it appears to be pefect. The old one was bent and grooved and an example of what happens when you over tighten the packing box. It was fabricated by my prop shop and the guy is a true craftsman. I have the GFO PTFE braided packing. Your "laying out" of the proper sequence is a big help. Thanks again for your time. Once again I am humbled by this board. Tim
I wish....
The boat is on the asphault. I think I have the most expensive yard in America. Has anyone ever heard of $1200 in and out for a 30' boat?!?! "Hang time" in the slings will be $125/hr. I got a verbal from the yard manager that the first hour would be free. I'm sure they will change their mind about that, though. Tim
The boat is on the asphault. I think I have the most expensive yard in America. Has anyone ever heard of $1200 in and out for a 30' boat?!?! "Hang time" in the slings will be $125/hr. I got a verbal from the yard manager that the first hour would be free. I'm sure they will change their mind about that, though. Tim
On our C-320 rudder replacement....
The stainless steel rudder post had to be drilled as it had been sent from the factory undrilled. The yard said that the post should be drilled by a machine shop due to the thickness of the stainless steel. Having fried a number of bits over the years attempting to drill thick stainless, I concurred. They carried the old and new rudders to the machine shop where they duplicated the holes. Everything fit properly when installed and in my mind money well spent.
The stainless steel rudder post had to be drilled as it had been sent from the factory undrilled. The yard said that the post should be drilled by a machine shop due to the thickness of the stainless steel. Having fried a number of bits over the years attempting to drill thick stainless, I concurred. They carried the old and new rudders to the machine shop where they duplicated the holes. Everything fit properly when installed and in my mind money well spent.
Replaced in the water
Two or three years ago a cruiser on a C40 or maybe a bit bigger replaced his rudder in the water while anchored off Hamburger Beach in Georgetown. The hardest part was making a template for drilling the holes. There was no kraft paper to be bought anywhere. They were using wrapping paper and it wasn't working out very well. Finally a suggestion was made to use chart paper. The owner said this was the only useful suggestion of the thousands of comments he received over the week it took to replace the rudder. It was quite interesting how it was done, they weighted the new rudder with diving belts to get it in. The old rudder has been decorated and taken to Flip Flop beach where it sits in the sand. The boat's name was Amanda Jane.
Two or three years ago a cruiser on a C40 or maybe a bit bigger replaced his rudder in the water while anchored off Hamburger Beach in Georgetown. The hardest part was making a template for drilling the holes. There was no kraft paper to be bought anywhere. They were using wrapping paper and it wasn't working out very well. Finally a suggestion was made to use chart paper. The owner said this was the only useful suggestion of the thousands of comments he received over the week it took to replace the rudder. It was quite interesting how it was done, they weighted the new rudder with diving belts to get it in. The old rudder has been decorated and taken to Flip Flop beach where it sits in the sand. The boat's name was Amanda Jane.
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