I have a Hunter 30. I am currently replacing the strut and doing the whole nine yards with shaft alignment... the previous owner claims the rudder and shaft were slightly to port. he said this (a) helped to compensate prop walk and (b) allowed the shaft to be removed without removing rudder or lifting the engine. it is a RH 3 blade prop. it seems to me I could have a hard time trying to mount the strut in a way not to bind in the cutless bearing and stay centered thru the stern tube. He could be correct because the engine is off the center axis a few degrees. would it matter if I position prop at center of boat?? desperately need some advice. TM
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Nice N Easy
Choices
I'm not sure what you are describing here, but it seems like you have some choice where to locate the strut. I have never seen this. The strut and stern tube are pretty well fixed. This is why the engine is moved on the mounts to align the prop shaft. Even if you had slotte holes to mount the strut, the shaft log is surely fixed, and gives you no choice about location. I would just concern myself with getting everything in place and free, then using the motor mounts to align the shaft.
I'm not sure what you are describing here, but it seems like you have some choice where to locate the strut. I have never seen this. The strut and stern tube are pretty well fixed. This is why the engine is moved on the mounts to align the prop shaft. Even if you had slotte holes to mount the strut, the shaft log is surely fixed, and gives you no choice about location. I would just concern myself with getting everything in place and free, then using the motor mounts to align the shaft.
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T.M.
no choices but
he suggested bending the V-strut a little or just offseting the whole entire axis. makes sense but seems difficult and risky. as I stated the motor is sitting a few degrees off center. I fully understand this whole alignment concept but does offsetting the prop from center compensate "prop walk". I looked at all the boats in the yard and did not see one prop offset of center. however i saw a boat last year where the shaft and prop exited port of the center. go figure I can align the strut but don't think it will be offset (to port side) then i would do the engine alignment. thanks
he suggested bending the V-strut a little or just offseting the whole entire axis. makes sense but seems difficult and risky. as I stated the motor is sitting a few degrees off center. I fully understand this whole alignment concept but does offsetting the prop from center compensate "prop walk". I looked at all the boats in the yard and did not see one prop offset of center. however i saw a boat last year where the shaft and prop exited port of the center. go figure I can align the strut but don't think it will be offset (to port side) then i would do the engine alignment. thanks
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ED
hold on a second
You are not telling why your replacing all this stuff. Is it bent or what. I would not give up the ablility of being able to pull the shaft without removing the rudder. This is a great feature. I would call humter and they can send you to a shop that will build a stock strut that fits. The alignment with the strut, and the shaft tube and the engine all have to be straight. If you change it i could mean movign the engine several inches. Lots of pain in the butt. they you would have to cut out the glass tube thru the boat and put in a new one at the new angle. then the strut. This is a lot of surgery! i would not change it. leave it at an angle it will work fine. If you have room you should install a shaft saver between the shaft and engine. great upgrade. easy to do, and has remarkable results. but it wil require a shorter shaft. The distances between prop and hull are critical as is the clearance between strut an prop hub. then the taper of the shaft has to match both the prop hub and the coupling. there is no standard deal on that take the prop and cupling to the shaft builder and tell him to match it. study alot before you start this job. its not rocket sciece but it has to be within a few thousands of an inch or it will be a big problem with noise and vibration! good luck
You are not telling why your replacing all this stuff. Is it bent or what. I would not give up the ablility of being able to pull the shaft without removing the rudder. This is a great feature. I would call humter and they can send you to a shop that will build a stock strut that fits. The alignment with the strut, and the shaft tube and the engine all have to be straight. If you change it i could mean movign the engine several inches. Lots of pain in the butt. they you would have to cut out the glass tube thru the boat and put in a new one at the new angle. then the strut. This is a lot of surgery! i would not change it. leave it at an angle it will work fine. If you have room you should install a shaft saver between the shaft and engine. great upgrade. easy to do, and has remarkable results. but it wil require a shorter shaft. The distances between prop and hull are critical as is the clearance between strut an prop hub. then the taper of the shaft has to match both the prop hub and the coupling. there is no standard deal on that take the prop and cupling to the shaft builder and tell him to match it. study alot before you start this job. its not rocket sciece but it has to be within a few thousands of an inch or it will be a big problem with noise and vibration! good luck
Prop' Walk
The short answer is Yes - an offset prop’ can compensate (somewhat) for prop’ walk, but it’s not likely to eliminate it. Others have pointed out the perils of changing engine/shaft alignment . BTW: Some prop’ walk can be a good thing. For more information Goto CruisersForum at: http://cruisersforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1462 Regards, Gord
The short answer is Yes - an offset prop’ can compensate (somewhat) for prop’ walk, but it’s not likely to eliminate it. Others have pointed out the perils of changing engine/shaft alignment . BTW: Some prop’ walk can be a good thing. For more information Goto CruisersForum at: http://cruisersforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1462 Regards, Gord
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Bill Creadon
Prop Walok Minimized
Offseting the prop is opening the door to a host of other problems. I have a Morgan 38 CC and it has an Autoprop. This prop does minimize walking. Go to www.autoprop.com and read and view the videos of how this prop works. I can attest to the success of this prop in minimizing propwalk.
Offseting the prop is opening the door to a host of other problems. I have a Morgan 38 CC and it has an Autoprop. This prop does minimize walking. Go to www.autoprop.com and read and view the videos of how this prop works. I can attest to the success of this prop in minimizing propwalk.
S
Steve O.
All of this just to reduce prop walk?
I don't understand. You are ready to take on this giant task just to eliminate or reduce prop walk? What you are talking about here is major work, and can have major negative impact if it is not done exactly correct. What's wrong with a little prop walk anyway? When you are docking, you can use the prop walk to scoot you one way or another. Learn to use it to your benefit. Yeah, sometimes it is a bit annoying, but I can't imagine it being that bad.
I don't understand. You are ready to take on this giant task just to eliminate or reduce prop walk? What you are talking about here is major work, and can have major negative impact if it is not done exactly correct. What's wrong with a little prop walk anyway? When you are docking, you can use the prop walk to scoot you one way or another. Learn to use it to your benefit. Yeah, sometimes it is a bit annoying, but I can't imagine it being that bad.
T
TM
ok...let me explain
I hooked a crab pot reaching out of Middle River. had no idea until I decided to change course. I started the engine. it stalled. I knew immediately what had occured. the line wrapped around the shaft until the float wedged between the prop and haul. this I believe is what bent and cracked my bronze screwed on V strut...now, I am replacing it. PO said it was offset.." you want to set it again in this fashion to reduce the prop walk and allow you to remove shaft in future". just seems awkward or is he correct. maybe he is "out of alignment" maybe he knows what he is talking about. I just want to get the new one on so I can sail (motor) in this windless month of August.
I hooked a crab pot reaching out of Middle River. had no idea until I decided to change course. I started the engine. it stalled. I knew immediately what had occured. the line wrapped around the shaft until the float wedged between the prop and haul. this I believe is what bent and cracked my bronze screwed on V strut...now, I am replacing it. PO said it was offset.." you want to set it again in this fashion to reduce the prop walk and allow you to remove shaft in future". just seems awkward or is he correct. maybe he is "out of alignment" maybe he knows what he is talking about. I just want to get the new one on so I can sail (motor) in this windless month of August.
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