ProNautic charger questions

[Sefuller]

I just ordered a ProNautic 1240P charger in anticipation of a trip to the boat next weekend. I'd like to make sure I have the proper size ring connectors with me when I go, but reading through the manual I don't see any mention of the terminal sizes for either the AC or DC sides. Also confused about what seems to be conflicting information between the website FAQ and the manual.

The manual says:
4. Empty Charger Banks - In the event of an empty charger bank there is no need to use a jumper as done with traditional chargers. Simply leave the DC positive unloaded and the unit will perform correctly.

The FAQ for dry mount chargers states:
On a Dry Mount charger, you will need to jumper the unused positive terminals to one of the positive terminals that you are using so that the charger will “read” a battery on each lead.

Any help appreciated.

Scott

 

[CharlieSea]

Just installed one a few months back. If memory serves, it is what ever ring terminal fits on a 1/4 bolt terminal. Note the AWG wire size for the run as indicated in the manual. Last thing is you must install a circuit breaker between the charger and the battery of 10amps greater than the charger rating or in this case 50 amps. It is a great charger.
Call their technical support in reference to the jumper. They are great.

 

[CharlieSea]

Come to think of it the jumper in the FAQ may refer to the previous model that did require one.

 

[Ward H]

Scott,
Last spring I installed the Sterling 30A version, which is basically the same charger. I bought it from Maine Sail who is on these forums. Here is a link to his article on installing the charger.
https://marinehowto.com/installing-a-marine-battery-charger/

While the manual states it is not necessary to jumper the unused output terminals, Maine Sail recommends that you do. He covers this in his article.

My notes say that the output terminal studs are 1/4". I believe the AC terminals are #10, maybe #8. I'd pick up both to be sure you have what you need.

Any wiring connected to a battery needs to be fused within 7" of the battery to protect the wiring, not the charger. In my case I used 6 AWG wire between the charger outputs and battery. 6 AWG has an ampacity of 120A so I used a 100A fuse. There is less voltage drop across a higher rated fuse than a small one so using the larger fuse based on the ampacity of the wire is recommended. Maine Sail's web site www.marinehowto.com has an article about voltage drops across fuses. Might be worth reading.

Enjoy!

 

[topcat0399]

I recently bought the 1250P and was amazed at how difficult it was to track down and confirm the size of the ring terminals (yes 1/4") for those terminals.
Its not anywhere in the owners manual or on the companies website. How could they leave this important connection info out? I should not have to make phone calls regarding something like this (eyeroll). Otherwise great product.

 

[Stu Jackson]

was amazed at how difficult it was to track down and confirm the size of the ring terminals (yes 1/4") for those terminals.
Its not anywhere in the owners manual or on the companies website. How could they leave this important connection info out? I should not have to make phone calls regarding something like this (eyeroll). Otherwise great product.

OTOH, one should/could have an assortment of ring connections in one's toolkit, no? OR, just take the charger out of its box, and go to the hardware store and buy some connectors on the way to the boat.

Not sure what's so hard about this, or need to diss the vendor. IIRC, it's also in Maine Sail's article, 'cuz I remember that he talked/wrote about the size differences between the lower amp chargers and the 60A model. And I don't even have a 1250P.

In any event, good luck, but luck should have nothing to do with it.

 

[jssailem]

one should/could have an assortment of ring connections in one's toolkit,

Spoken like a true engineer who has had to work in the field.

 

[Ward H]

Yes, Maine talks about choosing the 30A over 20A charger because the 30A has actual studs for the output connections but he doesn't mention the actual size. ( I bought mine from him and asked)
IMHO, Installing a new smart charger takes a bit of planning to get the most out of it. Location, distance to house bank, wire size to minimize voltage drop, plan for proper fusing, ring connectors/cable lugs for the various studs and wire size, etc.

Now, maybe if your just replacing an existing charger it is only a matter of having the correct terminals. Then it would be nice to have it in the documentation.

 

[Sefuller]

OTOH, one should/could have an assortment of ring connections in one's toolkit, no? OR, just take the charger out of its box, and go to the hardware store and buy some connectors on the way to the boat.

Not sure what's so hard about this, or need to diss the vendor. IIRC, it's also in Maine Sail's article, 'cuz I remember that he talked/wrote about the size differences between the lower amp chargers and the 60A model. And I don't even have a 1250P.

In any event, good luck, but luck should have nothing to do with it.

Sizes are not in MaineSail's article or I would not have asked the question, and my charger has yet to be delivered and will probably arrive on the day I leave for the boat which is 6 hours away, but thank you for offering the helpful suggestions By the way, I do have a pretty good assortment of a couple hundred ring terminals, butt connectors, a couple dozen battery lugs, several inline fuses, terminal and buss strips as well as various sizes of heat shrink tubing, a label maker, FTZ, AMP and ratcheting micro crimpers all in my box. I have tried to lay out as much of the wiring scheme as I can here at home for the rewiring of the engine harness and installation of the items I am taking with me, but I'd like to know for sure I am prepared to make the most of the limited time I will have, without having to stop for a run to the store.