Progression of H170 deck and transom repairs

Status
Not open for further replies.
Feb 27, 2010
6
Hunter 170 Neptune Beach
This is visual and written log of the repairs I plan to affect on the H170 boat I recently aquired. I have another post entitled 170 center foot rail construction and repair advise that has the original pics of the boat and asks for advise on the repairs that the boat needs. I will post new pics as I make repairs so a step by step log can be documented. I will make decisions as to the appropriate repair depending on the extent of the damage I find and availible solution for that type of problem. Additionally if anyone knows if the dark epoxy looking substance behind the rudder plate in the photo below is original; as this will help me decide if any more work is needed in this area of the transom.
I also need a 6' length of rubrail and a jib for this boat and any suggestions where to find these would help as well.

As always any input is much appreciated.
db
 

Attachments

JerryA

.
Oct 17, 2004
549
Tanzer 29 Jeanneau Design Sandusky Bay, Lake Erie
The rubrail can be ordered from Hunter. The dark area under the rudder mounting bracket is probably a sealer applied when built. I remember mine having some sort of white sealer there. Is the wood in your motormount rotten? I'll give you my opinion of what I would try if it were mine. There seem to be several people here on the forum that have had the mount tear loose, so I would take this opportunity to attempt to make it stronger.

Idea #1 - Cut open the area to remove the bad wood and additional core so that a larger shaped wood core could be installed to carry a greater load. An aluminum plate could even be inserted in the wood to drill and tap for the motormount screws, although probably not needed. This wood core could be attched to the bottom of the hull as well. Of course the wood is completely coated in epoxy or Devcon or something appropriate. Maybe someone can post ideas on this. Then reattach the plastic floor you cut open with Devcon. Sand, paint and admire.

Idea #2 - Make a larger external mount that covers a larger footprint and some plates on the bottom of the hull to allow through bolting. In the areas where the bolts would be, from the floor side you could open this up with a hole saw, and remove all the core in a 2-3" area. Then fill these areas with epoxy. This would serve to take the compression load of through bolting. Since the bottom of the hull is curved, your plates may need to have studs welded at the correct angle to get the best fit on the floor side. Once tightened, the studs can be cut off and a plastic cap snapped on to make it look factory new. Your extended mount on top would cover the hole sawed areas.

The Hunter 212 has a similar mount, but uses a tubing outrigger of sorts attached to the back of the seat. This helps, but the design loosens up over time. It really should be welded to the mount. I can envision using stainless tubing welded to the current mount to make Idea #2 work. Think tripod. Even without the cracking issues, these ACP boats require thinking about the distribution of loads before mounting anything. I think the tripod idea would work for the rudder bracket too if that ever broke.

Anyway... that's just my opinion, and it may or may not work. Hopefully it will stimulate others to offer up some ideas.

JerryA
 
Status
Not open for further replies.