Recently installed new Profurl system on my 30' Hunter but am having trouble properly adjusting the location of the lead block which feeds the furling line into the drum of the Proful. Consequently am constantly having an over wrap or under wrap of the drum when I unfurl the genoa. The instructions state to have the lead block at 90* to the drum, but I still get a over/under wrap situation. Any suggestons from other Profurl owners on location of lead block or any other techinque to minimize this situation. Thanks, Jeff
Profurl Over
- Thread starter Jeff Dunham
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technique
It is important to keep a little tension on the furling line as you pull the sail out of its furl - this will keep the line tight as it wraps on the drum, and will avoid slack spots and loops.
It is important to keep a little tension on the furling line as you pull the sail out of its furl - this will keep the line tight as it wraps on the drum, and will avoid slack spots and loops.
How is the block attached?
I was using a block shackled to the toe rail and never got a satisfactory wrap because the block had too much play. I installed a bullseye on the deck at 90 degrees and it solved the problem. Kevin
I was using a block shackled to the toe rail and never got a satisfactory wrap because the block had too much play. I installed a bullseye on the deck at 90 degrees and it solved the problem. Kevin
I had the same experience
...that Bob described below. I seem to have solved it by adding a ratchet block as the last block before the cleat. If I hold the furling line as the sail unfurls, it allows the furling line to wrap tighter around the drum.
...that Bob described below. I seem to have solved it by adding a ratchet block as the last block before the cleat. If I hold the furling line as the sail unfurls, it allows the furling line to wrap tighter around the drum.
Furling Set up
....All, thanks for the thoughts. This weekend I tried to maintain tension on the sheet and furler line as Bob mentioned, but still had either over or under wrap. At least this time I could stop and go forward to clear the line before a full wrap occured. As Kevin mentioned I also used a block attached to the toe rail, about seven feet back from the roller furler. While that allows the line the freedom to play inside the drum, I believe it is too much play. Will try a bullseye off the toe rail. Kevin, how far back from the drum did you place your bullseye?
....All, thanks for the thoughts. This weekend I tried to maintain tension on the sheet and furler line as Bob mentioned, but still had either over or under wrap. At least this time I could stop and go forward to clear the line before a full wrap occured. As Kevin mentioned I also used a block attached to the toe rail, about seven feet back from the roller furler. While that allows the line the freedom to play inside the drum, I believe it is too much play. Will try a bullseye off the toe rail. Kevin, how far back from the drum did you place your bullseye?
Bullseye location
Jeff, the bullseye is about 24 inches from the drum. The distance from the drum was dictated by the height of the drum above the deck, since I was trying to make the required 90 degree angle from the middle of the drum height to the bullseye. The bullseye is about 4 inches from the toe rail, but that distance was dictated by where I could best place my backing washers and nuts on the underside. My drum is pretty close to the deck (probably about 8 inches). Sounds like yours must be much higher if your block is 7 feet back. There are fairleads that attach to the pulpit rail that may be suitable for your distance, but didn't work for me. Alan raises a good point about decoring the line. I had done that but still had problems with the overwraps. But with the correct angle and a decored line it loads very nicely on the drum. Kevin
Jeff, the bullseye is about 24 inches from the drum. The distance from the drum was dictated by the height of the drum above the deck, since I was trying to make the required 90 degree angle from the middle of the drum height to the bullseye. The bullseye is about 4 inches from the toe rail, but that distance was dictated by where I could best place my backing washers and nuts on the underside. My drum is pretty close to the deck (probably about 8 inches). Sounds like yours must be much higher if your block is 7 feet back. There are fairleads that attach to the pulpit rail that may be suitable for your distance, but didn't work for me. Alan raises a good point about decoring the line. I had done that but still had problems with the overwraps. But with the correct angle and a decored line it loads very nicely on the drum. Kevin
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