Help!! I have two freshwater tanks on my boat that total 100 gallons. Recently the water has a real odor. I have emptied it a couple of times and refilled it and it will smell OK for a couple of days and then start smelling again. Has anyone had this problem and how do you fix it? Thanks for any help you can give. Tom
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stinky tanks
You can try adding some bleach (1 cup to 100gal)to kill whatever is growing in the water.Make sure you run it through the whole system-faucets etc. flush the system thoroughly after running the bleach through.WM also sells a water treatment-smell like bleach to me-to remove the plastic taste from water bladders-it works pretty well. Probably wantto add a touch of bleach every other tank fill to prevent that odor.
You can try adding some bleach (1 cup to 100gal)to kill whatever is growing in the water.Make sure you run it through the whole system-faucets etc. flush the system thoroughly after running the bleach through.WM also sells a water treatment-smell like bleach to me-to remove the plastic taste from water bladders-it works pretty well. Probably wantto add a touch of bleach every other tank fill to prevent that odor.
Recommission the system
Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people—and even some boat manufacturers—believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home for those “critters.†There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system—tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated. Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. 1. Use 1 quart Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorite solution) for each 50 gal. tank capacity. Fill tank. 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines. 3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but *no longer than 24 hours*. 4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. 5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion. 6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water. This should be done annually as part of spring recommissioning. It will also remove the taste/smell of antifreeze.
Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people—and even some boat manufacturers—believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home for those “critters.†There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system—tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated. Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. 1. Use 1 quart Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorite solution) for each 50 gal. tank capacity. Fill tank. 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines. 3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but *no longer than 24 hours*. 4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. 5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion. 6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water. This should be done annually as part of spring recommissioning. It will also remove the taste/smell of antifreeze.
Algae needs light...
There isn't much in a water tank or plumbing...although algae CAN grow in clear water hose.
There isn't much in a water tank or plumbing...although algae CAN grow in clear water hose.
One more question...fresh water
You hear it all the time...the water is fresh. Can water actually go stale? Or is it contaminated with things growing in it? Or is it just in our heads? I've never tasted stale water that I can think of but I'm not very observant and have constantly heard others complain of the water (not mine
).
You hear it all the time...the water is fresh. Can water actually go stale? Or is it contaminated with things growing in it? Or is it just in our heads? I've never tasted stale water that I can think of but I'm not very observant and have constantly heard others complain of the water (not mine
).
Floodwaters .....
The entire watertable on and around the Chesapeake has 'turned over' due to the recent severe flooding. If the stink isnt coming from a contaminated tank, then its probably due to the water table inversion (and the marina on Smith Creek didnt adjust the water softener, etc. for the new loading). If the tank has a biological contamination (biofilm : bacterial colonies) - wipe your hand on the internal tank walls and see if you feel a slime - if you feel a 'slime'; then, shock sanitize with chlorine or hydrogen peroxide (lots) or wash out the tank with the same disinfectants used for cleaning watermakers (usually a 1% mix of peracetic acid and hydrogen peroxide). If the biofilm is thick, you may need to shock sanitize the system several times in succession to remove the colonies. 1/2 oz. of clorox per gallon of tankage for a minimum 1-2 hours soak time (then flush) is OK but you must observe if the biofilm is removed. Only when the biofilm is removed (by prior and repeated sanitizations) then perform 'one more' shock sanitization then flush. The 'other' poster totally disregards the presence of biofilms; hence, that other offered recommendation is suitable only for CLEAN or NEW tanks; definitely NOT for tanks with observable biofilms. If contaminated with a biofilm (slime on the walls): repeated sanitizations until biofilm is removed, then 'one more' shock sanitization. -- if you dont observe a biofilm then simply get a carbon packed filter (Home depot) and s-l-o-w-l-y fill the tank through the charcoal filter as the charcoal will readily strip out the 'rotten eggs' smell from the water. You need 'contact time' inside the charcoal to strip out the 'stink' ... filter SLOW. Ive been slow filtering through charcoal ever since the severe early July flood.
The entire watertable on and around the Chesapeake has 'turned over' due to the recent severe flooding. If the stink isnt coming from a contaminated tank, then its probably due to the water table inversion (and the marina on Smith Creek didnt adjust the water softener, etc. for the new loading). If the tank has a biological contamination (biofilm : bacterial colonies) - wipe your hand on the internal tank walls and see if you feel a slime - if you feel a 'slime'; then, shock sanitize with chlorine or hydrogen peroxide (lots) or wash out the tank with the same disinfectants used for cleaning watermakers (usually a 1% mix of peracetic acid and hydrogen peroxide). If the biofilm is thick, you may need to shock sanitize the system several times in succession to remove the colonies. 1/2 oz. of clorox per gallon of tankage for a minimum 1-2 hours soak time (then flush) is OK but you must observe if the biofilm is removed. Only when the biofilm is removed (by prior and repeated sanitizations) then perform 'one more' shock sanitization then flush. The 'other' poster totally disregards the presence of biofilms; hence, that other offered recommendation is suitable only for CLEAN or NEW tanks; definitely NOT for tanks with observable biofilms. If contaminated with a biofilm (slime on the walls): repeated sanitizations until biofilm is removed, then 'one more' shock sanitization. -- if you dont observe a biofilm then simply get a carbon packed filter (Home depot) and s-l-o-w-l-y fill the tank through the charcoal filter as the charcoal will readily strip out the 'rotten eggs' smell from the water. You need 'contact time' inside the charcoal to strip out the 'stink' ... filter SLOW. Ive been slow filtering through charcoal ever since the severe early July flood.
Chemistry, Biology
"Can water actually go stale? Or is it contaminated with things growing in it?" Franklin - what do you mean by this? H20 is always H20 - but: Stuff can grow in it. Contaminates can get in through the fillers or other holes in the system, or wick in through hoses or joints. Chemicals can leach out of the plumbing. A vent tube is another source of 'stuff' over time - the air carries bio and chemo matter with it, bacteria, microscopic flakes of detritus from living things, chemicals & pollutants. Even the water we put in is not "pure" - it has some other stuff in it. Get all of that together and chemistry and biology happen. Over time, we humans don't like the water any longer. Thus - Peggy's clean 'er out methods as routine maintenance. Your water is not going to be distilled purity from a clean glass beaker. OC
"Can water actually go stale? Or is it contaminated with things growing in it?" Franklin - what do you mean by this? H20 is always H20 - but: Stuff can grow in it. Contaminates can get in through the fillers or other holes in the system, or wick in through hoses or joints. Chemicals can leach out of the plumbing. A vent tube is another source of 'stuff' over time - the air carries bio and chemo matter with it, bacteria, microscopic flakes of detritus from living things, chemicals & pollutants. Even the water we put in is not "pure" - it has some other stuff in it. Get all of that together and chemistry and biology happen. Over time, we humans don't like the water any longer. Thus - Peggy's clean 'er out methods as routine maintenance. Your water is not going to be distilled purity from a clean glass beaker. OC
Bacteria, fungus, microscopic zoo
plankton all contribute to the water going "bad". I am with Peggy on this one. When the water system won't keep fresh for a week then it is time to recommision the whole works. There is no sense in doing a halfway job of it, Her methods work well.
plankton all contribute to the water going "bad". I am with Peggy on this one. When the water system won't keep fresh for a week then it is time to recommision the whole works. There is no sense in doing a halfway job of it, Her methods work well.
Fresh water -always goes stale ....
Even the most ultrapure water will contain bacterial, spores and other 'organisms' ... and it only takes one to cell-divide into 2 more into 4 more into 8 into until you ultimately wind up with a noticable 'slime' growing on just about everything. All such ultra pure water will have an 'expiration date' based on the the statistical probability that that one/single organism has propagated into 'many colonies'. Its the inevetible 'growth' of organisms that makes the water 'stale'. The addition of chlorine and other oxidants/disinfectants only 'retard' the exponential growth of cells .... sooner or later you will get large bacteria colonies (slime). A noticeable slime will have somewhere of about 10,000,000,000,000 bacteria per square centimeter. The probably biggest entry point of contamination is the unprotected VENT on the tank which aspirates the ambient air into the tank every time you draw water from the tank. For vent protection, go to a filter distributor that markets to the bio-pharmaceutical industry and get a small 'hydrophobic 0,2µM vent capsule" (about $50) or simply tape a fist size wad of absorbant cotton covered with bandage gauze over the vent pipe - keep dry and change yearly. If your vent is already full of 'goo' (take a one big guess what this is?) simply changout the vent line with new, sanitize the new vent line, add a vent filter to start all over again with a clean/sanitary/protected vent.
Even the most ultrapure water will contain bacterial, spores and other 'organisms' ... and it only takes one to cell-divide into 2 more into 4 more into 8 into until you ultimately wind up with a noticable 'slime' growing on just about everything. All such ultra pure water will have an 'expiration date' based on the the statistical probability that that one/single organism has propagated into 'many colonies'. Its the inevetible 'growth' of organisms that makes the water 'stale'. The addition of chlorine and other oxidants/disinfectants only 'retard' the exponential growth of cells .... sooner or later you will get large bacteria colonies (slime). A noticeable slime will have somewhere of about 10,000,000,000,000 bacteria per square centimeter. The probably biggest entry point of contamination is the unprotected VENT on the tank which aspirates the ambient air into the tank every time you draw water from the tank. For vent protection, go to a filter distributor that markets to the bio-pharmaceutical industry and get a small 'hydrophobic 0,2µM vent capsule" (about $50) or simply tape a fist size wad of absorbant cotton covered with bandage gauze over the vent pipe - keep dry and change yearly. If your vent is already full of 'goo' (take a one big guess what this is?) simply changout the vent line with new, sanitize the new vent line, add a vent filter to start all over again with a clean/sanitary/protected vent.
The reason I ask
Is because I am a live-aboard and use the shore water plug-in to save on pump wear and tear. I've been keeping my tank empty, mainly because I kept thinking of the algae in my old dog's water bucket that I had to clean each week and always hearing of other's having water tank problems. Now I hear that keeping the tank empty isn't good either. Should I keep it full all the time instead of empty? Note: When I go out into the gulf or a weekend trip I fill it but then use it until it goes dry and then switch back to shore water plug.
Is because I am a live-aboard and use the shore water plug-in to save on pump wear and tear. I've been keeping my tank empty, mainly because I kept thinking of the algae in my old dog's water bucket that I had to clean each week and always hearing of other's having water tank problems. Now I hear that keeping the tank empty isn't good either. Should I keep it full all the time instead of empty? Note: When I go out into the gulf or a weekend trip I fill it but then use it until it goes dry and then switch back to shore water plug.
Franklin, if you dry the tank, and keep it
ventilated it will stay dry and fresh, but not clean. Like a water glass that in clean when you place it on the table, you wouldn't use it without a rinse after two months. The whaling captains in New England used to pack cranberries into their water barrels. The vitamin "C" kept the water fresh and the crews ate the berries to prevent scurvy. Without the preservative effect of the cranberries the water would start to "taste of the barrel " before too long.
ventilated it will stay dry and fresh, but not clean. Like a water glass that in clean when you place it on the table, you wouldn't use it without a rinse after two months. The whaling captains in New England used to pack cranberries into their water barrels. The vitamin "C" kept the water fresh and the crews ate the berries to prevent scurvy. Without the preservative effect of the cranberries the water would start to "taste of the barrel " before too long.
Best thing you can do is USE your water...
especially in a tropical or subtropical climate...'cuz "critters" thrive on warmth. You're running water through the plumbing more than weekenders do, which helps a lot, but won't keep the environment in the tank from getting skanky. So when your water starts to smell/taste funky, recommission the system...in Houston, you should prob'ly do it twice a year. And clean out the dog's water dish daily...he deserves clean water too!
especially in a tropical or subtropical climate...'cuz "critters" thrive on warmth. You're running water through the plumbing more than weekenders do, which helps a lot, but won't keep the environment in the tank from getting skanky. So when your water starts to smell/taste funky, recommission the system...in Houston, you should prob'ly do it twice a year. And clean out the dog's water dish daily...he deserves clean water too!
Just look at a swimming pool in the
spring time when they first uncover it. Smell the water and watch the results when they throw the chlorine into it and run the filter pumps for a day or two. Left alone for a month a swimming pool becomes a swamp.
spring time when they first uncover it. Smell the water and watch the results when they throw the chlorine into it and run the filter pumps for a day or two. Left alone for a month a swimming pool becomes a swamp.
Ross
"Like a water glass that in clean when you place it on the table, you wouldn't use it without a rinse after two months. " But the tank is enclosed except for the vent. The vent should only suck up air and just a little during the cooling time of the day as the air condenses, right? In otherwords, take the glass and put it in a cabinate with a vent. It should stay mostly clean, right?
"Like a water glass that in clean when you place it on the table, you wouldn't use it without a rinse after two months. " But the tank is enclosed except for the vent. The vent should only suck up air and just a little during the cooling time of the day as the air condenses, right? In otherwords, take the glass and put it in a cabinate with a vent. It should stay mostly clean, right?
Franklin I still rinse it. I do a lot of canning
in mason jars. The jars are run through the dishwasher before they are stored in clean, closed boxes and then run through the dishwasher before they are filled with food and placed in a pressure cooker. The air is full of spores from many sources.
in mason jars. The jars are run through the dishwasher before they are stored in clean, closed boxes and then run through the dishwasher before they are filled with food and placed in a pressure cooker. The air is full of spores from many sources.
Vents don't only let air out...they also let it in
And every time water is drawn out of your tank, air is pulled in through the vent to replace it. But vents also exchange air passively as temperature and other factors cause tanks to "breathe."
And every time water is drawn out of your tank, air is pulled in through the vent to replace it. But vents also exchange air passively as temperature and other factors cause tanks to "breathe."
Pure water lasts longer
All of the "bugs" in water require a few basic minerals to grow. The most basic is phosphate. No life on this planet exists without phosphate. If the water is really clean from reverse osmosis or Ion-exchange it will last a lot longer before smelling. I work in a lab and we put water pans in our incubators which have 100% humidity and 37 degrees C 24/7. If I use tap water within a couple of days the water turns funky and the pan is covered with slime. But we have an Ion-exchange system that removes virtually all contaminates. If I use this ultra pure water the pans stay clean for months and even after months only have a little slim. Lowe's and walmart sell both ion exchange and reverse osmosis units. If the water at your marina is really bad it might be worth the investment. Probably the the worst possible water is well water especially from a shallow well especially from sandy soil. Well water from limestone areas is often good as the calcium can precipitate phosphates. The limestone also gets rid of iron and other stuff that gives a bad taste. Water from coal areas often stinks like rotten eggs(hydrogen sulfide) straight from the tap. Most modern "city" water is treated to remove hardness and this usually is enough. We have been really lucky with our tanks and though we don't normally drink the water it doesn't smell when we use it for bathing, dish washing etc. We have used bleach to clean the system but haven't in a couple of years.
All of the "bugs" in water require a few basic minerals to grow. The most basic is phosphate. No life on this planet exists without phosphate. If the water is really clean from reverse osmosis or Ion-exchange it will last a lot longer before smelling. I work in a lab and we put water pans in our incubators which have 100% humidity and 37 degrees C 24/7. If I use tap water within a couple of days the water turns funky and the pan is covered with slime. But we have an Ion-exchange system that removes virtually all contaminates. If I use this ultra pure water the pans stay clean for months and even after months only have a little slim. Lowe's and walmart sell both ion exchange and reverse osmosis units. If the water at your marina is really bad it might be worth the investment. Probably the the worst possible water is well water especially from a shallow well especially from sandy soil. Well water from limestone areas is often good as the calcium can precipitate phosphates. The limestone also gets rid of iron and other stuff that gives a bad taste. Water from coal areas often stinks like rotten eggs(hydrogen sulfide) straight from the tap. Most modern "city" water is treated to remove hardness and this usually is enough. We have been really lucky with our tanks and though we don't normally drink the water it doesn't smell when we use it for bathing, dish washing etc. We have used bleach to clean the system but haven't in a couple of years.
Peggie nailed it...
Use your water. If you don't use it fast enough, drain your tanks and re-fill with fresh more often. We've never had a funky water problem because we use our water. Our tanks are clean and we change the filters regularly. During lay-up, I flush the system out completely, including pumps and filters, and that's the end of it; no antifreeze, no additives. In the spring, the system gets flushed, cleaned with a mild mix of chlorine, flushed again, filled and it's ready to go. Cheers, Bob
Use your water. If you don't use it fast enough, drain your tanks and re-fill with fresh more often. We've never had a funky water problem because we use our water. Our tanks are clean and we change the filters regularly. During lay-up, I flush the system out completely, including pumps and filters, and that's the end of it; no antifreeze, no additives. In the spring, the system gets flushed, cleaned with a mild mix of chlorine, flushed again, filled and it's ready to go. Cheers, Bob
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