I bought a 20 year old (1986 hull #37) Cal-28 at the end of August. One of the attractions to this boat was a spinnaker. However, the PO had never used it (he owned her about 17 of her 20 years). During that time, the spinnaker pole was chained to her cradle on shore. I've been asking for the pole since we got the boat, but he'd forgotten where it was. He finally turned it over to us last w/e. It's covered with a fairly hard, rough feeling, dull looking coating of something. I'd really like to clean it up so we can use it and leave it on deck, in chocks, without being ashamed of its appearance. Can anyone point me to something that will clean it up without wrecking it? It's aluminun and appears to be a Forespar pole. The actual spinnaker is in great shape as confirmed by a sailmaker who's cleaning and evaluating all my sails this winter. I really do want a symmetrical spinnaker, not a cruising or assymmetrical spinnaker and this is just what the Dr. ordered. On the same subject, he turned over all the running rigging for the spinnaker, but no blocks for the sheet/guy or foreguy. I plan to purchase Schaefer blocks with snap shackles to attach to the pad-eyes that are mounted to the deck for this. Will series 5 suffice or should I go for series 7 blocks? It's a 28 footer that displaces about 8,000 lbs. -Smitty
Probably a strange question, but
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As for the dirty pole
That's best solved in person. Get out your cleaning stuff and have at it. Ask for 'in person' opinions too. As far as block size, I don't know.
That's best solved in person. Get out your cleaning stuff and have at it. Ask for 'in person' opinions too. As far as block size, I don't know.
Smitty
I've had good luck cleaning up oxidized aluminum boat hooks and whisker poles (I'm not sure what may be on your spinnaker pole)using 800-grit emory paper. I would start with that and see what happens, although you may need a coarser grade. Once the aluminum is clean, however, you'll need to coat it with some form of protectant. I use silicon spray as it drys nicely and is not messy. Easy to reapply.
I've had good luck cleaning up oxidized aluminum boat hooks and whisker poles (I'm not sure what may be on your spinnaker pole)using 800-grit emory paper. I would start with that and see what happens, although you may need a coarser grade. Once the aluminum is clean, however, you'll need to coat it with some form of protectant. I use silicon spray as it drys nicely and is not messy. Easy to reapply.
Can you post a picture?
That would really help. And yes, if you take aluminum to bare metal it will need to be re-anodized or painted. I wouldn't silicone. It's risky around surfaces that might need coatings at a later date. It's also slippery. And it limits your options,,,,
That would really help. And yes, if you take aluminum to bare metal it will need to be re-anodized or painted. I wouldn't silicone. It's risky around surfaces that might need coatings at a later date. It's also slippery. And it limits your options,,,,
I wonder if "Aluminum Jelly" would work,
naval jelly was a product used to remove rust from steel. Other jelly were then developed for various metals, might take off the corrosion without taking all the protective layer.
naval jelly was a product used to remove rust from steel. Other jelly were then developed for various metals, might take off the corrosion without taking all the protective layer.
WD-40
I have not tried this but it may be an option. Most people think WD-40 is a lubricant. IT IS NOT! In fact, it is a crud lubricant. After a short period of time it turns sticky. WD-40 was originally developed in San Diego years and years ago under government contract as a metal protect ant for some of the older rockets. Read the label! Anyhow, you might try sanding it then coating it with WD-40 and see how it stands up. If it doesn't work, you can re-sand then anodize. Certainly less expensive than anodizing. Or you could cut off one end, insert WD-40, plug with an apple, then light it off and splat the racer stealing your wind!
I have not tried this but it may be an option. Most people think WD-40 is a lubricant. IT IS NOT! In fact, it is a crud lubricant. After a short period of time it turns sticky. WD-40 was originally developed in San Diego years and years ago under government contract as a metal protect ant for some of the older rockets. Read the label! Anyhow, you might try sanding it then coating it with WD-40 and see how it stands up. If it doesn't work, you can re-sand then anodize. Certainly less expensive than anodizing. Or you could cut off one end, insert WD-40, plug with an apple, then light it off and splat the racer stealing your wind!
Agree with Fred
silicon will be hard to get rid of. If you put it on it will travel amazing distances (5 to 6 feet in my experience)on the surface of the metal and may go places you do not want it. If you just want to clean it without removing the surface oxide or anodizing, use something acidic. If it is corroded and you want to remove the salt, use something alkaline like 409 or something similar. Whatever you try, use it sparingly until you see how it goes. Sanding will remove the oxide coating too but you may not care if it is not anodized. West Marine used to carry the kit to anodize aluminum parts if you want to try that. As to the blocks, the smaller ones will probably work fine. I would probably spend a few more bucks and get the bigger ones though. I am not sure of the apple idea but I am sure it is not legal in Canada.
silicon will be hard to get rid of. If you put it on it will travel amazing distances (5 to 6 feet in my experience)on the surface of the metal and may go places you do not want it. If you just want to clean it without removing the surface oxide or anodizing, use something acidic. If it is corroded and you want to remove the salt, use something alkaline like 409 or something similar. Whatever you try, use it sparingly until you see how it goes. Sanding will remove the oxide coating too but you may not care if it is not anodized. West Marine used to carry the kit to anodize aluminum parts if you want to try that. As to the blocks, the smaller ones will probably work fine. I would probably spend a few more bucks and get the bigger ones though. I am not sure of the apple idea but I am sure it is not legal in Canada.
don't touch that sander...
Smitty, I guess by now you know that I don't believe in sanding anything until you've exhausted other possibilities. The reason is simple--once' you've sanded you've got to recoat the material somehow. Don't sand unless you're prepared to paint it! I've had good luck on oxidized aluminum window frames with the infomercial "miracle lube" Ballistol. You saturate the piece with it and let it soak for a couple of days, then try scrubbing with a pot-scrubber sponge. If it seems to be working but hasn't penetrated it all, saturate it again and do it some more. You'll eventually discover how much of the anodized surface is left and whethery you'll need to paint it.
Smitty, I guess by now you know that I don't believe in sanding anything until you've exhausted other possibilities. The reason is simple--once' you've sanded you've got to recoat the material somehow. Don't sand unless you're prepared to paint it! I've had good luck on oxidized aluminum window frames with the infomercial "miracle lube" Ballistol. You saturate the piece with it and let it soak for a couple of days, then try scrubbing with a pot-scrubber sponge. If it seems to be working but hasn't penetrated it all, saturate it again and do it some more. You'll eventually discover how much of the anodized surface is left and whethery you'll need to paint it.
a picture please
I'm wondering if you don't have some electrolysis damage on you pole. If it was chained to the cradle for a number of years in a salt air environment, you may have some mineral salts exo-deposited from the aluminum, thereby weakening it. I don't pretend to understand the chemistry of what might have happened here, but essentially the salt air provides a medium for the material in one metal to start to migrate out in an attempt to equalize the differential potentials between the other metal and itself. Talk to a local metalurgist, welder, engineer, or post a picture and perhaps someone will be able to confirm what the stuff on you pole is.
I'm wondering if you don't have some electrolysis damage on you pole. If it was chained to the cradle for a number of years in a salt air environment, you may have some mineral salts exo-deposited from the aluminum, thereby weakening it. I don't pretend to understand the chemistry of what might have happened here, but essentially the salt air provides a medium for the material in one metal to start to migrate out in an attempt to equalize the differential potentials between the other metal and itself. Talk to a local metalurgist, welder, engineer, or post a picture and perhaps someone will be able to confirm what the stuff on you pole is.
Muratic Acid
I have an aluminium hot-tub stove. It gets coated with salts of AL so once a year I scrub it down with Muratic Acid (swimming pool supply) Not much scrubbing required but rubber gloves are! Of course when you get it smooth ; you will have to recoat it with something.
I have an aluminium hot-tub stove. It gets coated with salts of AL so once a year I scrub it down with Muratic Acid (swimming pool supply) Not much scrubbing required but rubber gloves are! Of course when you get it smooth ; you will have to recoat it with something.
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