Princess Stove won't stay lit

[gwheeler]

My stovetop takes a long time to heat the themocoupler and stay lit or it won't stay lit at all. When I push the knob in to lite it it starts up but I can hold it for a minute and it still won't stay lit. I,ve searched around and can't find anything on this. Anyone have a clue or know where I can find parts? Thanks.

 

[Pete]

thermocoupler

sounds like the thermocoupler is bad. If you can't get parts from the manufactue most thermocouplers are generic and most home improvement stores (home depot ,lowes and hardware stores) have them. Should not be a big job.

 

[Alex]

Stove won't stay lit

I have a similar issue and found that the flame near the thermo couple was more blue than the rest of the ring. I noticed some rust near that area letting more air in thus blue flame. I used a sand paper to remove the rust from the burner ring and the flame turned more orange and the thermo couple works after.I learned in high school, on a bunsen burner, the inner flame is cooler than the tip. May be that's why the thermo couple is not hot enough to open the gas safety valve.Worth a try.

 

[Andy]

Solenoid could cause problem

I had a similar problem with a Force 10. I would leave it off for 30 minutes, it would light back up immediately and then slowly die (like it ran out of gas). Turns out he solenoid would open initially and then slowly default (close). I put a new electric solenoid on and bingo it works!Of course now the electo lighter quit working so thats next on the list of fixits

 

[RichH]

Sand the surface of the thermocouple.....

Most thermocouple (the thermocouple controls the 'safety valve') apparent failures can usually be traced to a 'glaze' that builds up on the thermocouple. The glaze comes from 'impurities' in the gas and the glaze begins to act as an insulator against the transmission of heat. Simply take sandpaper, shine up the thermocouple ...... ;-)

 

[Ross]

I have disected several gas valves to learn how

they work. When you hold the burner valve in the start position it opens the solenoid valve. When you light the burner the flame impinges on the thermocouple and the thermocouple generates a millivolt power source that energizes the solenoid and holds the valve open when you release the knob. Any contamination on the thermocouple will delay the heating but will not affect the output voltage of the thermocouple. A few microns of insulation on the surface of the devise will be insignificant.Look to see if there is any impairment in the flame pattern (a clogged burner orifice) that could prevent heating of the thermocouple. Also check carefully to see if anything has been mechanically disturbed. Most thermocouples are different only in so far as their overall length is concerned. The output will be the same in almost all cases.

 

[Ross]

Andy, When you speak of the solenoid, Do you mean

The gas control valve at the tank or do you mean the internal solenoid valve in the burner control?

 

[gwheeler]

Thanks for all the info

I just bought the boat and there is rust under the cover, so most likely that is the problem. I will try to clean it real good and see if that helps. Moving onboard in about 3 mo. and this is a requirement for the wife. ;D

 

[Ross]

GMWheeler, it is dreadfully hard to cook a

meal when the stove is cold. Carefully take the stove apart, loose pieces first, and brush, scrape and pick at all of the crud that you can find. Sometimes I can correct a problem with a thermocouple controled burner just by dismounting the thermocouple and reinstalling it. They are really very fussy about placement.

 

[Andy]

Solenoid on tank

Ross & whoever, I was talking about the solenoid on the tank. A layup can make the plunger "goooey". The solenoid is an electomagnet switch. When you put the juice to it (turn on switch) it pops open and lets the gas flow. If you get low on DC power or if the solenoid fails, the valve shuts thereby cutting off the gas. Its one of those safety features that people wire around just to kill themselves!

 

[Windwalker]

Just fixed my Thermocouple

The thermocouple on my Dickenson heater went out so I contacted customer service. Their response was that over time the aforementioed "glaze" can build up, but it doesn't keep the thermocouple from getting hot, it keeps the millivolt from traveling to the valve to keep it open. Simply clean the electrical connections on the thermocouple & you should be good to go. It worked like a charm for me!

 

[Ross]

I presume that you cleaned the threaded end

and not the end that sits in the fire. Is that correct?

 

[Windwalker]

Correct

I burnished the threaded end with a dremel tool & a wire brush attachment to ensure electrical connection. I also checked & cleaned the following wire connection to the shut off valve. But it's usually the threaded end that needs the clean-up.

 

[Ross]

Windwalker ,I thought that was the case

the end that gets heated is two alloys welded together to form the thermocouple. There isn't much that you can do to that end to change the output.