Any suggestions as to what to do, not do, use, not use in pressure washing the bilge and underneath the settees, V-berth, etc.? The primary purpose of this exercise is to try to eliminate lingering odors that continue to exist, even after changing all sanitation hoses and thoroughly inspecting the sanitation system for leaks. (Also cleaned the bilge and sump areas, although these did not seem the be a problem.) Have also sprayed areas with KO and while that improved the situation, it did not solve it completely. My thought was to use an electric pressure washer, with some kind of cleaning solution (like Simple Green) and just hit as many of the areas underneath as possible. Due to the length of the nozzles on most pressure washers, some of these areas may be problematic. Any ideas or experience with this would be appreciated.
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garden sprayer
Ed I think a pressure washer might cause more problems than it would solve because of the extreme pressure. I wanted to do the same thing a few years ago and had some success using a i gallon garden pressure bottle - you know the kind you pump up to create pressure then use a wand nozzle to spray. I used a strong mix of bildge cleaner and hot water and sprayed up under the sole through the bilge area under the engine etc. I let it stand for a day then used just hot fresh water to spray the same areas and rinse it out into the bilge - alot of residue - diesel and ?? came out in the rinse. You probably have a garden sprayer at home you could wash out and use at no extra cost.
Ed I think a pressure washer might cause more problems than it would solve because of the extreme pressure. I wanted to do the same thing a few years ago and had some success using a i gallon garden pressure bottle - you know the kind you pump up to create pressure then use a wand nozzle to spray. I used a strong mix of bildge cleaner and hot water and sprayed up under the sole through the bilge area under the engine etc. I let it stand for a day then used just hot fresh water to spray the same areas and rinse it out into the bilge - alot of residue - diesel and ?? came out in the rinse. You probably have a garden sprayer at home you could wash out and use at no extra cost.
Clorox
I usually go with the garden sprayer and a Clorox/water solution. I spray lots of it on all the comartment surfaces and in every nook and cranny, as far as the sprayer will reach. Then I pump out the bilge and any other collection areas. The Clorox (bleach) will get rid of any/all bad odors and leave a fresh scent.
I usually go with the garden sprayer and a Clorox/water solution. I spray lots of it on all the comartment surfaces and in every nook and cranny, as far as the sprayer will reach. Then I pump out the bilge and any other collection areas. The Clorox (bleach) will get rid of any/all bad odors and leave a fresh scent.
White vinegar also good
Herb and Ted have good ideas. We have used (at various times) white vinegar in addition to simple green and chlorine bleach. You might also think about a layer of paint. We had smells on steroids due to a holding tank issue of epic proportions (previous owner story--hole in holding tank covered with DUCT TAPE!). After we removed all of the rotted wood, smelly tank and hoses, etc.. we still had odor. After cleaning and prep, odor was still there--it seemed to have been absorbed into the exposed fiberglass. A layer of polyurethane porch paint in the bilges and under the settees and v-berth completely removed the odor. Make sure that you clean and prep well and use a quality ail based enamel or polyurethane paint (it doesn't have to be from the marine store).
Herb and Ted have good ideas. We have used (at various times) white vinegar in addition to simple green and chlorine bleach. You might also think about a layer of paint. We had smells on steroids due to a holding tank issue of epic proportions (previous owner story--hole in holding tank covered with DUCT TAPE!). After we removed all of the rotted wood, smelly tank and hoses, etc.. we still had odor. After cleaning and prep, odor was still there--it seemed to have been absorbed into the exposed fiberglass. A layer of polyurethane porch paint in the bilges and under the settees and v-berth completely removed the odor. Make sure that you clean and prep well and use a quality ail based enamel or polyurethane paint (it doesn't have to be from the marine store).
I wouldn't use a commercial pressure washer....
They put out 15,000 psi and higher--as high as 45,000, which can knock all kinds of things loose in a bilge and even damage gelcoat. However, a POWER washer--the kind that put out 1200-1500 psi and cost $100-200 at Home Depot etc--is safe to use in a bilge and one of the handiest tools you can own. I've had one for years and used it for everything from bilge cleaning to knocking the winter dirt off the hull and deck...to cleaning my deck and furniture, driveway and sidewalks at home.
They put out 15,000 psi and higher--as high as 45,000, which can knock all kinds of things loose in a bilge and even damage gelcoat. However, a POWER washer--the kind that put out 1200-1500 psi and cost $100-200 at Home Depot etc--is safe to use in a bilge and one of the handiest tools you can own. I've had one for years and used it for everything from bilge cleaning to knocking the winter dirt off the hull and deck...to cleaning my deck and furniture, driveway and sidewalks at home.
An Idea about Speed/Depth Sender Wires
Ed - you're asking for any ideas/suggestions about what not to do. What I'm thinking is that the speed or depth transducer wires are usually run in the bilge area and often have connectors to factilitate installation, say, BNC type? The connectors are typically not waterproof and if they get corroded can mess up the electronic data signal. Therefore, a suggestion would be to avoid getting the connectors wet. Also, if a pressure washer is used you don't want to splatter the cabinetry so maybe a blanket around the wand or work area might help.
Ed - you're asking for any ideas/suggestions about what not to do. What I'm thinking is that the speed or depth transducer wires are usually run in the bilge area and often have connectors to factilitate installation, say, BNC type? The connectors are typically not waterproof and if they get corroded can mess up the electronic data signal. Therefore, a suggestion would be to avoid getting the connectors wet. Also, if a pressure washer is used you don't want to splatter the cabinetry so maybe a blanket around the wand or work area might help.
Check the specs on a commercial pressure washer
I rented one once--gas powered (most "home" power washers are electric)--that, according to the placard on it, was 15,000 psi. And it was a small one.
I rented one once--gas powered (most "home" power washers are electric)--that, according to the placard on it, was 15,000 psi. And it was a small one.
They make a great mess in an enclosed area
The stuff you are "removing" with the washer gets everywhere. Just be prepared.
The stuff you are "removing" with the washer gets everywhere. Just be prepared.
Peggie,,,,
I think you miss-placed the decimal point. The highest pressures I've seen for a hand wand is about 3000 psi. After a Google search, here is the highest pressure industrial washer, I found. http://www.dcs1.com/del/pressure-washers/rk-41.html Met a fellow at the Seattle Boat Show last year who was using 45K and higher pressures to cut stainless steel plate. His cutter tips wore out faster than a welder.
I think you miss-placed the decimal point. The highest pressures I've seen for a hand wand is about 3000 psi. After a Google search, here is the highest pressure industrial washer, I found. http://www.dcs1.com/del/pressure-washers/rk-41.html Met a fellow at the Seattle Boat Show last year who was using 45K and higher pressures to cut stainless steel plate. His cutter tips wore out faster than a welder.
I didn't misplace the decimal pt, Fred.
It's not the psi that allows water to cut metal, it's how narrow the stream of water is. You obviously have a lot of time on your hands...drop by an equipment rental place and look at gas powered pressure washers. My own power washer puts out 1200 psi...that's only about 3x that of the pressure from a garden hose nozzle connected to most city water faucets. A real pressure washer will put a hole in gelcoat if you aim at the same spot long enough...3000 psi, which is only a little more than twice that of my power washer, couldn't do that unless the nozzle were a "needle."
It's not the psi that allows water to cut metal, it's how narrow the stream of water is. You obviously have a lot of time on your hands...drop by an equipment rental place and look at gas powered pressure washers. My own power washer puts out 1200 psi...that's only about 3x that of the pressure from a garden hose nozzle connected to most city water faucets. A real pressure washer will put a hole in gelcoat if you aim at the same spot long enough...3000 psi, which is only a little more than twice that of my power washer, couldn't do that unless the nozzle were a "needle."
Peggie, pressure is pressure. I doesn't matter if
it's needle point or the bottom of the entire Pacific Ocean. Your garden hose is about 50 psi. Your pressure washer is about 1200psi, thats 24X. A person could never handle a larger tip with that much pressure. Case in point; 2 1/2" attack fire hose. It needs three MEN! Notice, I didn't say women.
Pressure of that hose? About 100psi max. Besides, first you said forty five THOUSAND PSI. Are you now defending three thousand psi? P.S. The hydraulic hose used in heavy equipment is rated at 4 thousand psi max. Even that, is hazardous if a failure occurs.
it's needle point or the bottom of the entire Pacific Ocean. Your garden hose is about 50 psi. Your pressure washer is about 1200psi, thats 24X. A person could never handle a larger tip with that much pressure. Case in point; 2 1/2" attack fire hose. It needs three MEN! Notice, I didn't say women.
Pressure of that hose? About 100psi max. Besides, first you said forty five THOUSAND PSI. Are you now defending three thousand psi? P.S. The hydraulic hose used in heavy equipment is rated at 4 thousand psi max. Even that, is hazardous if a failure occurs.at home depot
my electric power washer from home depot says 1650 PSI Plenty enough to clean the hulll, deck and bilge
my electric power washer from home depot says 1650 PSI Plenty enough to clean the hulll, deck and bilge
Thanks to all
Lots of ideas and advice, and prompt responses. Much appreciated. (And don't stop now if someone else wants to chime in with something else.)
Lots of ideas and advice, and prompt responses. Much appreciated. (And don't stop now if someone else wants to chime in with something else.)
pressure to cut steel
High speed accurate cutting of hardened tool steel can be done with a stream 2mm wide at a pressure of 60,000 psi. Normally, an abrasive such as silica is added to enhance cutting. Most systems above 4,000 psi are very sofisticated due to required safety features. FWIW Ward
High speed accurate cutting of hardened tool steel can be done with a stream 2mm wide at a pressure of 60,000 psi. Normally, an abrasive such as silica is added to enhance cutting. Most systems above 4,000 psi are very sofisticated due to required safety features. FWIW Ward
I sense alot of pressure here
but anything over 3000 psi is not a backyard pressure washer. I'd love to see your plumbing thats rated for 400 psi, not to mention what would happen to you in the shower. An open 5/8" garden hose at 400 psi would develop about 240 pounds of thrust. Hard on the tomatoes.
but anything over 3000 psi is not a backyard pressure washer. I'd love to see your plumbing thats rated for 400 psi, not to mention what would happen to you in the shower. An open 5/8" garden hose at 400 psi would develop about 240 pounds of thrust. Hard on the tomatoes.
Be careful of petroleum waste in bilge
I had very good success in cleaning out my Catalina 25 by spraying "Spray Nine" degreaser/disinfectant in all of the lockers, drilling limber holes for drainage where needed, hosing those areas with the marina's (moderate) pressure water line, and pumping the suds out the bilge (and onto the gravel, since it was on the hard). The C25, however, had an outboard motor so there was no issue of petroleum or gasoline spillage in the bilge. If you have an inboard motor you need to check very carefully for what if any collected fuel and oil spills you may have lurking in there. If there's enough to make a visible slick on the water upon pumping out you could be subject to a heavy fine. Check the latest BoatUS magazine for some information on this.
I had very good success in cleaning out my Catalina 25 by spraying "Spray Nine" degreaser/disinfectant in all of the lockers, drilling limber holes for drainage where needed, hosing those areas with the marina's (moderate) pressure water line, and pumping the suds out the bilge (and onto the gravel, since it was on the hard). The C25, however, had an outboard motor so there was no issue of petroleum or gasoline spillage in the bilge. If you have an inboard motor you need to check very carefully for what if any collected fuel and oil spills you may have lurking in there. If there's enough to make a visible slick on the water upon pumping out you could be subject to a heavy fine. Check the latest BoatUS magazine for some information on this.
Bilge/Diesel odors
COndsider using some of the new enzymes that "eat" the stuff causing the odors then use hose and bilge pumps the dispurse.
COndsider using some of the new enzymes that "eat" the stuff causing the odors then use hose and bilge pumps the dispurse.
bilge odors
you stated you changes the sanitation hoses, did you also change the holding tank vent hoses? Also try a garden sprayer and Lysol or some such deodarizing cleanser on the bottom of the hull, I emptied about 1/2 a bottle,took a hose and flushed out the hull.
you stated you changes the sanitation hoses, did you also change the holding tank vent hoses? Also try a garden sprayer and Lysol or some such deodarizing cleanser on the bottom of the hull, I emptied about 1/2 a bottle,took a hose and flushed out the hull.
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