Prefilter Question

Status
Not open for further replies.
Nov 18, 2006
183
Kirie Elite Elite 37 Moss Point MS
Okay folks, I changed my diesel filters last night. When i bought the boat 6 months ago the previous owner had replacement filters already bought and vacumed bag. The filter on the engine by the way was the same. The prefilter was a racor but were the old filter was a 2 micron, the new one was a 10 micron. I went ahead and changed it but now I am wondering if i should go back and purchase another 2 micron filter. BTW The engine is a Universal/Westerbeke 3 cylinder 25 Hp. Thanks all Frank
 
P

Phil

2 micron?

I have a Universal/Westerbeke 4 cyl. From the manufacturer, Catalina, the Racor had a 30 micron and the engine had a 10 micron filter. When I replaced the Racor I went to a 10 micron, so now I am running 2- 10's. You might check the manufacture's spec to see if 2 micron is really the correct filter, seems quite small. You can most likely contact Universal/Westerbeke.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,759
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
2 micron will plug

A 2 micron filter will plug quickly. Usually it's a 30 or 10 for the pre-filter and a 10 on the engine. I use 30 (pre) and 10 (engine) been doing this for many, many years with no issues. The one time I had an issue was when the only Racor element I could get was a 2 micron and it plugged. If you could find a 2 mic engine filter that would be a different story because you could the use a 10 pre and a 2 micron on the engine.
 
May 18, 2004
64
Morgan 46' Morgan aft cockpit 4 Georgetown, MD
blleding the lines?

When you guys replaced the filters do you bleed the lines?..injectors? just curious?
 
May 18, 2004
64
Morgan 46' Morgan aft cockpit 4 Georgetown, MD
blleding the lines? B

When you guys replaced the filters do you bleed the lines?..injectors? just curious? There is an artical in this months Cruising world that addresses this subject.,,,,I havent read it completely through yet, but it talks about a 10micron prefilter and a 2 micron on the engine.
 

RichH

.
Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
Diesel Oil Filtration .....

The most damaging 'hard' particle in a diesel engine is probably in the range of 20 µM. Commonly diesel fuel filters available are 30µM, 10µM and 2µM ... and these are 'nominally' rated at their given µM but only approximately 95-97% efficient at the rated (arbitrary) retention size ... so you need a 10µM to do the work of protection at 20µM at near 100% retention efficiency. All filters do 'work' and operate at 'differential operating pressure versus flow rate'. A 2µM filter will operate at ~5X HIGHER the differential pressure than a 10µM to deliver the same flow .... thus switching out a 10µM and replacing with a 2µM will put ~5X the load on the diaphragm of the lift pump .... and it will cause the lift pump to wear out / break much faster because the lift pump is doing more WORK. So, if you havent cleaned or maintaned your tank (agglomerations of Alkenes, bacteria, fungal growth ... all 'particles') and you are having trouble; either (best) thoroughly clean out the tank or INCREASE the 'size' (surface area) of the filters you normally use ... so that you operate in the range of the "design LOAD" of the diaphragm lift pump on the engine.
 
R

Rick9619

Frank, we kind of discussed this earlier

You may not have seen the replies. Here is some handy information. Maybe not the end all best all way but.... It does make sense. BTW I run a dual 10 micron as primaries, and a 2 micron at the engine secondary. Also the majority here believe the screen at the bottom of the pickup line in the tank can be removed if you are properly filtered i.e. at least a primary and secondary setup. Here's the straight scoop on Racor filters. I have found most guys at the West, Boaters World, BoatUS etc. really don't know what's right, they know what sells though. The 2 micron filters are a secondary filter, made to be an engine filter on engines that don't have one of there own. If you use a 2 micron as a primary filter (the first one the fuel goes to from the tank) you won't get any of the centrifugal action the housing was designed to do for spinning out things that are heavier than fuel, such as water. The last letter in the 2 micron filter part number is "S" for secondary. The 10 micron filter is a transitional filter, made to be used in extreme duty locations as an intermediate filter between the primary and secondary. Again, not much happening in the centrifugal action. The last letter in the 10 micron filter part number is "T". The 30 micron filter is what was designed to be a primary filter, does the job best as the first filter the fuel goes through. Now, all that being said, you can use any filter you want, it is the outcome that is the consideration. With a relatively clean fuel tank you should get about 80 to 100 hours on a 2 micron primary filter, about 4 days underway. That's not very much. If you often sail through jetties and rough water, don't depend on your engine to always get you through if you use a 2 micron filter, a 2 micron will always stop flowing at the most inopportune time. Lastly if you get a Racor element wet with water, it will not allow much fuel to go through. They are water blocking, and when wet fuel blocking too, best place for the water is in the bowl under the element. Drain the bowl as part of the shut down procedure when you are closing up the boat. If the Racor is in a place that is hard to get to, move it. Believe me, if you do regular draining of the filter bowl, your boating experience will only get better. Next time I change mine, I may go 30, 10, 2. Best of luck
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,342
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
The ref previous post is

http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/pviewall.tpl?&fno=21&uid=73200280089&sku=2007127130432.54
 
Status
Not open for further replies.