Will be drilling, filling and redrilling the holes for hardware for line aft on my boat this week. Got all the gear together and with the rudder broken and a new one two weeks away I might as well work. The screws are all 1/4 inch. How big should I drill the first holes? 5/16 larger? Will the epoxy support its own weight as I fill the holes or do I try and get somethig in there to back it? Don't want to screw up that nice dry bilge. Bought two of the syringe type epoxy kits at the home depot. Says its good for fiberglass. Is it sufficient? Thanks, Mike
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Mark Swart
Get REAL epoxy
I made the generic epoxy mistake when finishing repairs on a prior boat. I was re-doing the deck under the front stancion. I used west epoxy for the bulk of repairs, but ran out and used generic epoxy on the very top. Within months, the generic epoxy was soft, gooey and peeling up. The West stuff under it was just fine. Spend the extra money, it'll be worth it. I'm not sure what you're working on, but if you are drilling through something and filling with epoxy, just use duct tape to cover any holes on the bottom side, otherwise the epoxy will run out. Hope this helps..
I made the generic epoxy mistake when finishing repairs on a prior boat. I was re-doing the deck under the front stancion. I used west epoxy for the bulk of repairs, but ran out and used generic epoxy on the very top. Within months, the generic epoxy was soft, gooey and peeling up. The West stuff under it was just fine. Spend the extra money, it'll be worth it. I'm not sure what you're working on, but if you are drilling through something and filling with epoxy, just use duct tape to cover any holes on the bottom side, otherwise the epoxy will run out. Hope this helps..
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Tom Akin
Hi Mike!
Hi Mike! The epoxy that you buy must be the best. Devcon has some rugged epoxies, but they're not the EZ mix 50/50 types. I hate trying to get those weights right. I end up useing paper cups and an ammo reloading scale. Slow and messy, but cheaper than the metering machine. I hope to do the same project this fall. Let us know where you run the lines aft. There must be several ways to do this. This rudder breaking thing that happens on the '25 is upsetting. I figure on building a spare, but hate the thought of trying to stash that thing on board. I just bought my boat and haven't inspected my rudder too closely. I will now! Great pic's on the lake! Your boat is a beauty. Mine sports a classy white gelcoat oxide finish with plenty of custom mildew patches, complete with grey wood trim totaly free of any traces of protective finish. I hope it's as nice as yours some day.
Hi Mike! The epoxy that you buy must be the best. Devcon has some rugged epoxies, but they're not the EZ mix 50/50 types. I hate trying to get those weights right. I end up useing paper cups and an ammo reloading scale. Slow and messy, but cheaper than the metering machine. I hope to do the same project this fall. Let us know where you run the lines aft. There must be several ways to do this. This rudder breaking thing that happens on the '25 is upsetting. I figure on building a spare, but hate the thought of trying to stash that thing on board. I just bought my boat and haven't inspected my rudder too closely. I will now! Great pic's on the lake! Your boat is a beauty. Mine sports a classy white gelcoat oxide finish with plenty of custom mildew patches, complete with grey wood trim totaly free of any traces of protective finish. I hope it's as nice as yours some day.
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Mike Whalen
lines aft
Tom, Have you seen the lines aft thread on the archives? I'm planning on putting my organizer parallel to the hand rail so that I don't have to run some lines through the hand rail. I'll post photos later. My wood is a bit rough too. That's on the to do list. Good luck with your "new" boat we have really enjoyed ours. Later, Mike
Tom, Have you seen the lines aft thread on the archives? I'm planning on putting my organizer parallel to the hand rail so that I don't have to run some lines through the hand rail. I'll post photos later. My wood is a bit rough too. That's on the to do list. Good luck with your "new" boat we have really enjoyed ours. Later, Mike
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Justin - O'day Owners' Web
Epoxy
Mike - Make sure that you have good epoxy. Some of the stuff from the wharehouse stores is good and some isn't. If its unopened I would return it and get either West System or MAAS epoxies. You should be able to get or the other at your favorite marine supplier. As far as backing the holes I would lay good quality plastic masking tape across the back of the holes. Make sure to burnish the tape to the holes to ensure that you get a good seal. Also, remember that when you drill your oversized holes you don't want to go throught the bottom skin in the glass. Justin - O'day Owners' Wev f
Mike - Make sure that you have good epoxy. Some of the stuff from the wharehouse stores is good and some isn't. If its unopened I would return it and get either West System or MAAS epoxies. You should be able to get or the other at your favorite marine supplier. As far as backing the holes I would lay good quality plastic masking tape across the back of the holes. Make sure to burnish the tape to the holes to ensure that you get a good seal. Also, remember that when you drill your oversized holes you don't want to go throught the bottom skin in the glass. Justin - O'day Owners' Wev f
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Mike Whalen
HELP re: Predrilling and epoxy
I'm putting a deck organizer and rope clutch on the cabin roof. Justin says dont predrill all the way through. How thick is the outer layer and core? I sure would have drilled all the way through. Not going through solves the taping issue as the lower level of glass would hold the epoxy. I was trying to figure out how to put tape over the underside since that is the liner right and I suspect there is some room between cabin roof and liner. Or is that wrong? I'll check Boatersworld but that's all we have here in Knoxville. AND how big do I predrill for the 1/4 inch bolts? Thanks, Mike
I'm putting a deck organizer and rope clutch on the cabin roof. Justin says dont predrill all the way through. How thick is the outer layer and core? I sure would have drilled all the way through. Not going through solves the taping issue as the lower level of glass would hold the epoxy. I was trying to figure out how to put tape over the underside since that is the liner right and I suspect there is some room between cabin roof and liner. Or is that wrong? I'll check Boatersworld but that's all we have here in Knoxville. AND how big do I predrill for the 1/4 inch bolts? Thanks, Mike
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Tom Akin
Screw depth and screw removal
Hi again Mike... I think the clue is, how long are the screws that secure the deck fittings, close to where you are re-drilling for the new fittings? I'd think you could measure one of those screws and wrap tape on your drill for the correct depth. Go ahead and be conservitive, and back it off 1/8th inch shallower than the screw length. Another tip... For 1/4 inch holes, I would go a minimum of 5/16ths. 3/8ths would give the epoxy even a larger "grip" area in the wood. Don't go 1/2. I think there is a diminishing return on the purchase the epoxy has in the wood. Also, if you EVER want to get those screws out again, you better put two coats of paint on the threads!! Perhaps ever some spray graphite between the coats of paint. That epoxy will never let go of those screws again, once it's set up. I'm not an expert at this though. This is just how I thought it out.
Hi again Mike... I think the clue is, how long are the screws that secure the deck fittings, close to where you are re-drilling for the new fittings? I'd think you could measure one of those screws and wrap tape on your drill for the correct depth. Go ahead and be conservitive, and back it off 1/8th inch shallower than the screw length. Another tip... For 1/4 inch holes, I would go a minimum of 5/16ths. 3/8ths would give the epoxy even a larger "grip" area in the wood. Don't go 1/2. I think there is a diminishing return on the purchase the epoxy has in the wood. Also, if you EVER want to get those screws out again, you better put two coats of paint on the threads!! Perhaps ever some spray graphite between the coats of paint. That epoxy will never let go of those screws again, once it's set up. I'm not an expert at this though. This is just how I thought it out.
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