Pre-launch diesel maintenance questions

[john6206]

Hello Everyone,

I took a 5 part online marine diesel course offered through Great Lakes Cruising Club. Fantastic course, I learned a lot. BUT I still get a little overwhelmed when I actually get in there and start working.

There is no maintenance log, and I’m sort of assuming that nothing has been done other than oil changes (we’ve got receipts for those).
My goals in the next couple weeks are change transmission fluid, oil, fuel filters and coolant, and check the heat exchange tubes.

Last year I changed the impeller, and today I changed the pencil anode.

One hang up I had today was draining the coolant. There is a something that looks like a thumbscrew, but when I tried to free it, the “wing” part turned freely and the screw did not turn. It almost looks like an Allen wrench would fit in the bottom, but I can’t quite see it to be sure (Pictures attached). My biggest fear is that I loosened the plug just enough that it will leak! But I don’t think so, it’s in there pretty good.

Next question, does it matter if I change the oil cold? Scuttlebutt in the marina is that most people do it pre launch (and just run the engine a minute and check the levels post launch) - if you are sucking it through the dipstick it doesn’t matter if it’s cold? Online class said to run the engine first - which implies post launch. Or am I overthinking this?

I‘m thinking the transmission fluid is the easiest one, it’s just a suck it out and fill it?

Is there anything I should add to my list?
Westerbeke 30b, 30 years old, 870 hours.

Checking the injectors is up according to the manual.
That sounds like it’s above my pay grade.

Thanks in advance for any wisdom,

John

 

[kappykaplan]

Next question, does it matter if I change the oil cold? Scuttlebutt in the marina is that most people do it pre launch (and just run the engine a minute and check the levels post launch) - if you are sucking it through the dipstick it doesn’t matter if it’s cold? Online class said to run the engine first - which implies post launch. Or am I overthinking this?

Cold oil is a b*%ch tosuck out. Warm the engine up.

 

[Davidasailor26]

Next question, does it matter if I change the oil cold? Scuttlebutt in the marina is that most people do it pre launch (and just run the engine a minute and check the levels post launch) - if you are sucking it through the dipstick it doesn’t matter if it’s cold? Online class said to run the engine first - which implies post launch. Or am I overthinking this?

I’d run it first. Just check the dipstick first to make sure the level is good and it doesn’t look like there’s any moisture from condensation. Next season I’d change it before winterizing. That way you can run it to warm it up nicely, change the oil, and circulate the fresh oil while you run antifreeze through the raw water circuit.

 

[dlochner]

Change it in the fall before haul out. Hot oil is easier to suck out and any crud in the oil pan will be stirred up and in suspension so it will be sucked up out of the engine. When cold, that crud will just sit in the oil pan.

The coolant petcock probably should be replaced. Those little wings are not that well secured to the shaft and easily break. I'm not a Westerbeke guy, however, if you have the thread size for the petcock one can probably be found that is less expensive that a genuine WB petcock.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Cold oil is a b*%ch tosuck out. Warm the engine up.

And it tastes terrible when cold.

Checking the injectors is up according to the manual.

I wouldn't bother if there are no combustion problems showing i.e, smoking, hard to start, really rough idling (they are somewhat rough at the best of times), misfiring, knocking at idle even when hot (they always knock a bit when cold).

 

[BigEasy]

Change it pre haul out or after winter lay up; in either case, run engine for 5 minutes or so to heat the oil.
At some point you’re going to need to check & adjust the valve clearance yourself, or hire a mechanic to perform that task.

 

[john6206]

Sounds like the consensus is to change the oil after launch. I get a week in the slip before they kick me out. Even if my best weather window is on launch day I can’t imagine it would make a difference to cruise 40km to the summer slip and change the like when I get there.

how would you suggest I get that petcock out? I thought it might be made to put an Allen wrench in the bottom, but Im not sure about that.

 

[rgranger]

how would you suggest I get that petcock out?

Wrench here...

Some PB blaster and a wire brush first to clean it up... let it sit a while then knock it with a wrench and a break-out bar. Don't strip the nut... be patient. Give it a knock then more PB blaster, wait 30 min... try again, repeat.

 

[kloudie1]

quick note: The threads in the nut to be removed are the usual "right handed" threads .. (Unscrew from block in usual direction)
But the threads on the stem itself are left handed meaning that turning the wingnut part counterclockwise screws the stem inward and opens the valve for draining through the center hole. .. turning it clockwise tightens the valve,,

 

[dlochner]

Once upon a time I had a Volvo MD7A diesel with a similar problem. After dutifully paying an exorbitant amount for an official Volvo petcock I discovered installing it would require removing the intake manifold. Apparently they had slightly changed the design which prevented easy installation. Instead I found a bolt with the same threads and screwed it in. When the boat was sold a decade later the bolt was still installed and keeping the cooling water where it belonged.

 

[Stu Jackson]

WAIT!!!

That petcock appears to be on the heat exchanger.

If so, then you need to leave the petcock alone because all it drains is seawater. What you do need to remove is the bolt on the left side of your picture which appears to be the zinc.

 

[jssailem]

OK
The manual is always a reasonable place to start to look for answers.
20b two-30b-30c three operators manual 36906 rev 5.pdf

The Arrows indicate the petcock valves to use for draining the "Fresh Water / Coolant".
The drain plugs are reported to be a "block drain plug (1/4 NPT hex-head brass plug, often called a petcock or drain nipple in diagrams) — it is located on the cylinder block adjacent to the oil filter."

The engine diagrams show 2 drain plugs. One on the engine block (as you show in your image) and one on the heat exchanger. The Heat Exchanger shows a second drain plug for the "Raw Water."

Pages 57 and 58 of the manual identify the "Lay-Up and Recommissioning" recommendations for Westerbeke diesels.

 

[rgranger]

OK The manual is always a reasonable place to start to look for answers.

Das Handbuchleser

 

[john6206]

Yes,
I did start with the manual!

There are two pictures in the manual that don’t quite agree. My engine looks like the second one (I thinks it’s a couple pages after that one). My anode is not on the top of the heat exchanger, it’s that brass bolt you see in picture 1, I changed it out a couple days ago. I assume the raw water drain and the anode are the same, except it’s at the top of the raw water circuit, so it’s not going to drain anything except what’s in the heat exchanger. When I pulled it, nothing came out but a couple drips. I think it broke the vacuum and some water flowed out of the raw water intake.

I believe the peacock in question drains the coolant - as indicated by the picture you posted.

btw. The zinc that I pulled was painted red, which makes me think it was installed 30 years ago before they painted the engine. The sticker right above it on the heat exchanger says “Check Anode Monthly!”

 

[TimFromLI]

Change the oil in the fall before haulout, don't leave dirty oil in your engine all winter. Used oil contains acids, unburned fuel and other corrosive contaminants. Also when it's in the water you'll be able to get it nice and warm to make draining easier.

 

[jssailem]

Checking monthly might be a bit much, especially in the fresh waters of Lake Michigan. Maybe do it two months in a row to establish a baseline, then you can adjust the frequency.

 

[dlochner]

If the anode is zinc and it is in freshwater it will last forever and while doing so it will offer no protection. In freshwater aluminum or magnesium anodes work. Zinc forms a crust that electrically insulates the zinc. I have no idea if there is an aluminum or magnesium engine anode, the folks at BoatZincs.com might know.