I drained the potable water for the winter, added some of the pink stuff, recently refilled the tank, pumped enough water through to get rid of the anti freeze, added a teaspoon of clorox, and refilled the tank. The water coming out of the faucets smells like... well, lets just say it smells. What gives?
Potable water smells...
- Thread starter Boydaclies
- Start date
- Status
Stinky water tank
You still have the stuff that makes "stink" in the tank - algae, and the sorts. Suggest you empty the tank, add regular clorox to the tank (about a pint to 75 gals, or equivalent), (make sure this solution is in your water pipes. Open the taps, when you smell clorox close the taps.) then let the tank and pipes sit for two hours or so. Then, drain everything again and refill with water. Add about 1/2 the clorox you did originally (equivalent) for this last refill. This will keep the bugs from growing over the summer. If you have your clorox amount correct, you won't smell the clorox or any foul smell - you'll be in "balance". You might have to run a few tests to get it right. Just remember, too much clorox is bad on rubber seals, so go easy on the stuff. Good luck.
You still have the stuff that makes "stink" in the tank - algae, and the sorts. Suggest you empty the tank, add regular clorox to the tank (about a pint to 75 gals, or equivalent), (make sure this solution is in your water pipes. Open the taps, when you smell clorox close the taps.) then let the tank and pipes sit for two hours or so. Then, drain everything again and refill with water. Add about 1/2 the clorox you did originally (equivalent) for this last refill. This will keep the bugs from growing over the summer. If you have your clorox amount correct, you won't smell the clorox or any foul smell - you'll be in "balance". You might have to run a few tests to get it right. Just remember, too much clorox is bad on rubber seals, so go easy on the stuff. Good luck.
Always Happens to Me Every Year
Pinkl Stuff, again. Just flush, treat & drain like the other poster says. Only, I use about 4 oz to 70 gals. Let it sit overnight, empty half and fill it up. You'll still smell some clorine, but it will go away as it is diluted.
Pinkl Stuff, again. Just flush, treat & drain like the other poster says. Only, I use about 4 oz to 70 gals. Let it sit overnight, empty half and fill it up. You'll still smell some clorine, but it will go away as it is diluted.
When is it too much
I have added a drinking water to my boat with a separate faucet in the galley. I run the water through an inline filter. What I want to know is whether Clorox is toxic, or can it be added to drinking water. If so what is safe?
I have added a drinking water to my boat with a separate faucet in the galley. I run the water through an inline filter. What I want to know is whether Clorox is toxic, or can it be added to drinking water. If so what is safe?
I understand...
...that clorox is simple chlorine that is used by many municipalities. Sometimes you can smell it in the water. We don't drink the on-board water because of the quality. I don't have any filter, or such, to purify it, so we drink bottled water. We shower, shave and brush teeth with the on-board water. We rotate it often thru use. Fortunately, we have never had a problem.
...that clorox is simple chlorine that is used by many municipalities. Sometimes you can smell it in the water. We don't drink the on-board water because of the quality. I don't have any filter, or such, to purify it, so we drink bottled water. We shower, shave and brush teeth with the on-board water. We rotate it often thru use. Fortunately, we have never had a problem.
chlorox is ok to use
just make sure you use plain chlorox bleach, not chlorox for colors, scented, etc. It contains sodium hypochlorite and nothing else. Thats the same stuff water treatment plants use. You can use a higher concentration to "shock" your tank for 24 hrs and then empty it. for drinking water you should not be able to smell or taste it or a very slight taste or odor is ok. Any more than that and it's too much. A dirty tank will eat up the chlorine as it oxidizes organics. Once all the organics are oxidized it takes very little to maintain the correct concentration. All that said, on my 260 I carry 5 or 6 one gallon jugs for drinking and use the main tank for washing stuff. The gallon jugs fit 2 or 3 very nicely behind the companionway steps between the mattress and the steps. Make sure you get jugs with a screw on lid, not the pop off type. The tank water tastes a little funky to me no matter what.
just make sure you use plain chlorox bleach, not chlorox for colors, scented, etc. It contains sodium hypochlorite and nothing else. Thats the same stuff water treatment plants use. You can use a higher concentration to "shock" your tank for 24 hrs and then empty it. for drinking water you should not be able to smell or taste it or a very slight taste or odor is ok. Any more than that and it's too much. A dirty tank will eat up the chlorine as it oxidizes organics. Once all the organics are oxidized it takes very little to maintain the correct concentration. All that said, on my 260 I carry 5 or 6 one gallon jugs for drinking and use the main tank for washing stuff. The gallon jugs fit 2 or 3 very nicely behind the companionway steps between the mattress and the steps. Make sure you get jugs with a screw on lid, not the pop off type. The tank water tastes a little funky to me no matter what.
How to recommission the fresh water system
Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system—tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated. Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded. 1. Fill the tank with a solution of 1 quart Clorox or Purex household bleach/50 gallons of water. 2. Open every faucet on the boat and let water run till what's coming out smells strongly of bleach. Then close all faucets, but do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines. 3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but *no longer than 24 hours.* 4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. 5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart distilled white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion. If the bleach has been thoroughly flushed out of the system, it is not necessary to fill the tank more than 1/3 full. 6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by filling the tank 1/4-1/2 full with potable water...drain again and fill tank for use. This will remove all antifreeze taste/odor. An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land. If you need to improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember that a filter is not a substitute for recommissioning the system, and that filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement.
Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system—tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated. Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded. 1. Fill the tank with a solution of 1 quart Clorox or Purex household bleach/50 gallons of water. 2. Open every faucet on the boat and let water run till what's coming out smells strongly of bleach. Then close all faucets, but do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines. 3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but *no longer than 24 hours.* 4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. 5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart distilled white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion. If the bleach has been thoroughly flushed out of the system, it is not necessary to fill the tank more than 1/3 full. 6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by filling the tank 1/4-1/2 full with potable water...drain again and fill tank for use. This will remove all antifreeze taste/odor. An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land. If you need to improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember that a filter is not a substitute for recommissioning the system, and that filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement.
Silver
At the suggestion of a fellow boater I dropped some scrap silver into my fresh water tanks and my smelly water thing went away. On that boat I usually filled up with untreated water as that was the available source. Scrap silver is easily available at most jewelry sellers/repair places and you don't need very much, an ounce or so. After cleaning the tanks and if you have untreated sources of water this may be an alternative. If water sits in a tank for a long time the chlorine looses its strength too... Ned
At the suggestion of a fellow boater I dropped some scrap silver into my fresh water tanks and my smelly water thing went away. On that boat I usually filled up with untreated water as that was the available source. Scrap silver is easily available at most jewelry sellers/repair places and you don't need very much, an ounce or so. After cleaning the tanks and if you have untreated sources of water this may be an alternative. If water sits in a tank for a long time the chlorine looses its strength too... Ned
Low pressure after recommision
Actually have a 1987 O'Day 272 LE..Recommisioned pressure water system yesterday on newly purchased boat whose pressure water hadn't been used in some time. replaced inoperative pump. I filled tank with water/commercial tank cleaner, and drained through 2 faucets until empty. Now the pressure is good when tap opened, but quickly slows to a drible. I suspected clogged vent, but symptoms continue ebven if i remove vent line from tank, and, if I oprn tank fill plug on deck. Wondering if I could've damaged the pump by running the tank dry with it. Any advise ??
Actually have a 1987 O'Day 272 LE..Recommisioned pressure water system yesterday on newly purchased boat whose pressure water hadn't been used in some time. replaced inoperative pump. I filled tank with water/commercial tank cleaner, and drained through 2 faucets until empty. Now the pressure is good when tap opened, but quickly slows to a drible. I suspected clogged vent, but symptoms continue ebven if i remove vent line from tank, and, if I oprn tank fill plug on deck. Wondering if I could've damaged the pump by running the tank dry with it. Any advise ??
- Status