Potable Water Filter

FastOlson · Sep 2, 2019

Since there is always a possibility of 'stuff' growing inside the filter element from just sitting there, Time is likely to be the determining factor for cartridge replacement rather than gallonage. Probably best to replace annually.
Aso, DO clean out your tanks via their inspection ports once a year. Those teeny-tiny little clumps of plant life probably will not harm you, but... still.... good to have visually clean water.
(If your boat did not come with clean-out ports -- six inch is good -- install some. We did that many years ago.)
We use our boat's tankage just as we would the tap water at home, for 25 years and counting. Do not settle for less in your "second home."

Don S/V ILLusion · Sep 2, 2019

This filter is designed to work as a taste/odor carbon filter supplied by municipal potable water sources. The manufacturer even states that as a prerequisite since the filter media isnt effective absent a bacteria-free chlorinated source.

dlochner · Sep 2, 2019

We fill from municipal water supplies so we don't worry too much about pathogens as the water is chlorinated.

For regular use, washing dishes, hand washing, cleaning, we use the water straight from the tank. There is a coarse filter on tank outlet side that collects larger crud once in a while.

For drinking water, we use a Brita filter. Just keep it full for drinking water and coffee water. Any water that is boiled, for rice or pasta, is straight from the tap. The boiling will kill off anything there.

Inline filters also add another layer of work for winterizing. The filter must be removed and bypassed before running antifreeze through it. Otherwise the filter element and the antifreeze make a nice fertile ground for all sorts of microbe.

Been there, done that, skipped the tee-shirt.

shemandr · Sep 2, 2019

Well I did that wrong for about 5 years. Didn't die of it but I got it! Remove filter before winterizing.

dlochner · Sep 2, 2019

shemandr said:
Well I did that wrong for about 5 years. Didn't die of it but I got it! Remove filter before winterizing.

When we bought Second Star she had been sitting on the hard for a couple of years. She had been winterized, but the filter was not bypassed. When I finally traced the odor, it was the filter and it was awful. The other source of odor was the head discharge hose, full of pink stuff and a healthy smelly microbe family. They were unceremoniously evicted!

Terry Cox · Sep 6, 2019

The water in our tanks remains pretty clean and odor free as I alternate tank use. Drinking water and ice I use a galley faucet mounted PUR brand filter and have for years, just as a precaution. No need here to filter shower, washing and cleaning water.

Hunter216 · Sep 6, 2019

Although the source of your water may be from a municipal “treatment” facility there are lots of ways for it to be contaminated before it’s actual use. For example is the filler hose at the marina “clean” etc etc. Not to be paranoid but imho it’s prudent to treat your storage tank like a well. Lots of pertinent info here:

Well Treatment | Wells | Private Water Systems | Drinking Water | Healthy Water | CDC

Education and information about well treatment and remediation, including removing contaminants, household water treatment, filtration, water softeners, distillation, disinfection, treatment options, retiring wells, capping or plugging wells, well contractors, and state certified drinking water...

www.cdc.gov

dlochner · Sep 7, 2019

Hunter216 said:
Although the source of your water may be from a municipal “treatment” facility there are lots of ways for it to be contaminated before it’s actual use. For example is the filler hose at the marina “clean” etc etc. Not to be paranoid but imho it’s prudent to treat your storage tank like a well. Lots of pertinent info here:

Well Treatment | Wells | Private Water Systems | Drinking Water | Healthy Water | CDC

Education and information about well treatment and remediation, including removing contaminants, household water treatment, filtration, water softeners, distillation, disinfection, treatment options, retiring wells, capping or plugging wells, well contractors, and state certified drinking water...

www.cdc.gov

There are good practices for filling a water tank at a marina. Use a dedicated hose that is safe for potable water. Do not use the hose for flushing the holding tank. Let the water run a few minutes before filling the tank. Shock the tank with bleach at least annually. We also fill our tanks directly through the inspection port to avoid any contamination in the filler hose and monitor the tank level as it fills.

dlochner · Sep 7, 2019

jviss said:
Also, filling through the inspection port - why? It would be very clumsy and time consuming to do this on my boat. And, if you think your filler hose is contaminated, how does this help?

The filler hose can be easily contaminated with mold and mildew. It is in a damp environment with very little air circulation. Avoiding the filler hose avoids washing any mold, mildew, dust, etc. down into the tank.

Filling through the inspection port allows me to fill the tank directly from the hose, the water leaves the hose and immediately enters the tank. More importantly, it lets me know when the tank is full without waiting for the water to blow out the vent hose. This also reduces the chance for anything in the vent hose from being drawn down in to the water tank. One of my tanks vents into the bilge, (it has a loop and an air break to prevent bilge water from drawn back into the tank) one day it seemed to take a long time to fill the tank, turns out the tank was full and so was the bilge.

Accessing the primary tank on my boat is pretty easy, lift a settee cushion and the port is right there. The hose comes in through a hatch in the salon. The other tank is in the V berth, if the bed isn't made, it is pretty easy to access. We only use this tank when we are out cruising for a longer period of time.

We're in a slip with water and electric. No time pressures at the gas dock for filling tanks and getting out of the way. If you are filling at a gas dock, some prep before you get there can make the process pretty quick.

RoyS · Sep 7, 2019

I use 1 micron filter cartridges. The first filter is in a standard holder with a standard hose connection inlet. The outlet is a short hose that I insert in the tank filler only when filling. I leave the filter assembly loose near the filler port in the anchor locker. This is my primary filter. The secondary filter cartridge assembly is also 1 micron and this one has carbon as well. That assembly is directly after the pump. Annually I shock treat the entire system with bleach and replace both filters. Water is safe to drink without any odors. Technically you should use absolute 1 micron filters but I use nominal 1 micron ones which are cheap and readily available. Expect to pay about 6 to 8 dollars each.

Don S/V ILLusion · Sep 7, 2019

dlochner said:
The filler hose can be easily contaminated with mold and mildew. It is in a damp environment with very little air circulation. Avoiding the filler hose avoids washing any mold, mildew, dust, etc. down into the tank.
.

Begs the question what differentiates the filler hose concern you have from the hose you use to fill your tank? Same damp unventilated hose; different diameter.

Regardless, the environment within the tank is the potential problem, not the water.

dlochner · Sep 7, 2019

Don S/V ILLusion said:
Begs the question what differentiates the filler hose concern you have from the hose you use to fill your tank? Same damp unventilated hose; different diameter.

Regardless, the environment within the tank is the potential problem, not the water.

Prior to filling the tank, I flush the hose for several minutes, that will flush anything in the hose and in to the lake or on the lawn.

Right, the environment in the tank is what matters. That's why I shock the tank each spring and take care to avoid introducing any contaminates.

Hunter216 · Sep 7, 2019

I don’t own a cruiser but I do run my house off a well. A vital part of the water “treatment” is a UV light preceded by a filter that screens out any large particles that would interfere with its effectiveness. I’m not sure of the power draw but it might be something to consider adding to the system on your boat. All the water coming from the tank would be treated as it’s used.
Shocking the system on a regular schedule is also best practice.

dlochner · Sep 7, 2019

jviss said:
My port aluminum tank has a port with eight machine screws and a rubber gasket, so not so easy! The bow tank is tough to access, but is plastic with a screw-in port.

If I had an inspection port with 8 screws to open, then I would rethink my position on using the fill hose. On my boat there is little difference in effort to use the inspection ports or the fill hoses. So I opt for the inspection port. Your mileage obviously varies.