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Lookin' good Josh!
Boat is really lookin' good. That is a great looking asymmetrical too, especially given the price! Looks like you are closing in on the finish line. I am surprised that you had trouble with Toplac. You saw how well it went on my boat. Or did you detect some of the same? No, wait. Don't tell me. I got a price for gelcoat repair on the topsides. He found twenty-one "flaws", many of which I had already coated with gelcoat but never finished. To finish the hull, $3000.! Needless to say I will be patching and fairing all by my lonesome. Keep up the good work.
Boat is really lookin' good. That is a great looking asymmetrical too, especially given the price! Looks like you are closing in on the finish line. I am surprised that you had trouble with Toplac. You saw how well it went on my boat. Or did you detect some of the same? No, wait. Don't tell me. I got a price for gelcoat repair on the topsides. He found twenty-one "flaws", many of which I had already coated with gelcoat but never finished. To finish the hull, $3000.! Needless to say I will be patching and fairing all by my lonesome. Keep up the good work.
Ed, how did you get the dark patches out?
Ed, You guessed it; I have some of the same spotting, that looks both flat and dirty. Strangely, the flat part is only on the deck-sides, and there was some on the cabin top. I just put another coat on the cabin top, so that it looks like non-skid paint running along the deck next to the cabin trunk. Anyway, I'll deal with the flat parts of the paint job, but how did you get the dark discoloration out--I think you said it was just dirt, and I remember you handled that problem with some kind of cleaning solvent. I used some boat cleaner that I got at West, but it didn't come out entirely. Josh
Ed, You guessed it; I have some of the same spotting, that looks both flat and dirty. Strangely, the flat part is only on the deck-sides, and there was some on the cabin top. I just put another coat on the cabin top, so that it looks like non-skid paint running along the deck next to the cabin trunk. Anyway, I'll deal with the flat parts of the paint job, but how did you get the dark discoloration out--I think you said it was just dirt, and I remember you handled that problem with some kind of cleaning solvent. I used some boat cleaner that I got at West, but it didn't come out entirely. Josh
nicely done
The ports look really nice Josh. When I get back to ther left coast I'll sail over and admire it closeup. And then you can show me how to use that drifter. I have one that stays in the bag due to lack of knowledge - mine... Cheers Sanders Temporarily in Satellite Beach, Florida
The ports look really nice Josh. When I get back to ther left coast I'll sail over and admire it closeup. And then you can show me how to use that drifter. I have one that stays in the bag due to lack of knowledge - mine... Cheers Sanders Temporarily in Satellite Beach, Florida
Josh, I want to see a close up pic
of the portlights both interior and exterior views. Now get to work on this! Nice job though. I bet you got a deal on the boat just because of the old paint color. I'm happy with the NFM's trimetric portlight, see new on left and old on right.
of the portlights both interior and exterior views. Now get to work on this! Nice job though. I bet you got a deal on the boat just because of the old paint color. I'm happy with the NFM's trimetric portlight, see new on left and old on right.
Rail covers Scott?
Very nice portlights Scott. But I bet they do not drain. I like my old bronze NFMs but I wish I had waited for those that you purchased. I think later models were larger for a better fit. And the polished stainless looks great. Did you buy more than one? And do you really have covers over all your teak rails? Josh, about those dark patches. I think I wrote that I was using that sponge called "magic eraser". It took out a lot of that "dirt" or whatever in the non-skid but not all. I am going to repaint with Interlux Interdeck. I did the anchor locker cover with their beige and it came out really well. But First Mate wants gray so gray it will be. Another wasted quart of paint.
Very nice portlights Scott. But I bet they do not drain. I like my old bronze NFMs but I wish I had waited for those that you purchased. I think later models were larger for a better fit. And the polished stainless looks great. Did you buy more than one? And do you really have covers over all your teak rails? Josh, about those dark patches. I think I wrote that I was using that sponge called "magic eraser". It took out a lot of that "dirt" or whatever in the non-skid but not all. I am going to repaint with Interlux Interdeck. I did the anchor locker cover with their beige and it came out really well. But First Mate wants gray so gray it will be. Another wasted quart of paint.
Great job-- but why use plywood?
Josh, why did you plug them with plywood? It seems now you have a new invitation to rot. I am glad you used WEST-type epoxy though-- this is the perfect application for it. I am currently procrastinating the next step on my boat which is to install a bridge deck for the traveller. This necessitates filling in the bottom weatherboard's-worth of companionway hatch. The easiest way to do any large fill-in job like this is to screw a piece of waxed Formica-on-plywood over the hole with sheet-metal screws, lay up real fibreglass, and unscrew the plywood when done to fair it in. In this way you fill using the same material as what it is being asked to bond to. Fibreglass is great like that. However the Gougeons tell me that WEST epoxies will bond fine to suitably roughed-up polyester fibreglass too, which is good. So I am sure that if you exposed enough 'endgrain' in the edges of both your plywood plugs and the window holes, it ought to suffice. I trust you epoxied the living daylights out of the edge of the new holes in the plywood too. I am not going to do the above method on my hatch after all because I am bonding a piece of teak plywood to the after face of the inside of the trunk cabin and can just cover the whole hatch area that needs to be filled in. Then I'll lay up mat and cloth on the outside and let it bond to the plywood before trimming the new opening to where it needs to be. The glass work doesn't even have to be faired in to the Nth degree because the bridge deck will be above it. But I'll have to do a Cherubini job on it anyway. JC 2 cherubiniyachts@aol.com
Josh, why did you plug them with plywood? It seems now you have a new invitation to rot. I am glad you used WEST-type epoxy though-- this is the perfect application for it. I am currently procrastinating the next step on my boat which is to install a bridge deck for the traveller. This necessitates filling in the bottom weatherboard's-worth of companionway hatch. The easiest way to do any large fill-in job like this is to screw a piece of waxed Formica-on-plywood over the hole with sheet-metal screws, lay up real fibreglass, and unscrew the plywood when done to fair it in. In this way you fill using the same material as what it is being asked to bond to. Fibreglass is great like that. However the Gougeons tell me that WEST epoxies will bond fine to suitably roughed-up polyester fibreglass too, which is good. So I am sure that if you exposed enough 'endgrain' in the edges of both your plywood plugs and the window holes, it ought to suffice. I trust you epoxied the living daylights out of the edge of the new holes in the plywood too. I am not going to do the above method on my hatch after all because I am bonding a piece of teak plywood to the after face of the inside of the trunk cabin and can just cover the whole hatch area that needs to be filled in. Then I'll lay up mat and cloth on the outside and let it bond to the plywood before trimming the new opening to where it needs to be. The glass work doesn't even have to be faired in to the Nth degree because the bridge deck will be above it. But I'll have to do a Cherubini job on it anyway. JC 2 cherubiniyachts@aol.com
Cherubini
My brother and most scholarly types will insist it should be the correct Latin/Italian 'keh-roo-BEE-nee', but most of this wing of the family (including me, an anglophile) anglicise the name to 'chair-oo-BEE-nee'. Ask a language-arts teacher, get that kind of an answer!
JC 2 cherubiniyachts@aol.com
My brother and most scholarly types will insist it should be the correct Latin/Italian 'keh-roo-BEE-nee', but most of this wing of the family (including me, an anglophile) anglicise the name to 'chair-oo-BEE-nee'. Ask a language-arts teacher, get that kind of an answer!
JC 2 cherubiniyachts@aol.com- Status