We, Sea Scout Ship 41, have a DaySailer which we trailer back and forth to our launch site. It takes us forever to center the boat back on the trailer. Does anyone have a recommendation on post vs bunkpad guide-ons?
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Ron Maloney
Dito loading the DaySailer II
I'll be interested in the response you get since I have the same problem.
I'll be interested in the response you get since I have the same problem.
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Don Evans
I'll Take a Stab....
Not knowing too much about the Daysailor, or its underwater hull shape, I'll compare it to my OD25 and its trailer set-up. Hope this can help: The trailer has a keel pad that supports the greater share of the hull weight. It also has an keel slot guide, made from angle iron, that coralls the keel guiding the hull on to the bunks (2 X 12). The bunks are 2/3 the water line length (12'), and are mounted on swivel jack pad stands, 2 per side. Once the keel has been captured, the bunks lock the hull in place and its just a matter of winching it forward to the bow support on the trailer. The secret though is that keel slot angle iron. Any chance one could be added to your trailor? Don Don
Not knowing too much about the Daysailor, or its underwater hull shape, I'll compare it to my OD25 and its trailer set-up. Hope this can help: The trailer has a keel pad that supports the greater share of the hull weight. It also has an keel slot guide, made from angle iron, that coralls the keel guiding the hull on to the bunks (2 X 12). The bunks are 2/3 the water line length (12'), and are mounted on swivel jack pad stands, 2 per side. Once the keel has been captured, the bunks lock the hull in place and its just a matter of winching it forward to the bow support on the trailer. The secret though is that keel slot angle iron. Any chance one could be added to your trailor? Don Don
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Ron Maloney
No keel on daysailor
The Daysailor II has a center board which swings out. When pulled up the boat is flat across the bottom (or almost flat). When trailer is under water, very difficult to determine when boat is centered on rollers.
The Daysailor II has a center board which swings out. When pulled up the boat is flat across the bottom (or almost flat). When trailer is under water, very difficult to determine when boat is centered on rollers.
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Don Evans
One Other Thought Then...
I have seen trailer/boat guides made from what looks like electrical conduit, attached to the sides of the bunks, that stand up above the water surface to help centre the boats. Could you attach these to the trailer? Thanks for the correction on the daysailor hull shape. Don
I have seen trailer/boat guides made from what looks like electrical conduit, attached to the sides of the bunks, that stand up above the water surface to help centre the boats. Could you attach these to the trailer? Thanks for the correction on the daysailor hull shape. Don
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Richard Gash
Right on.
Don, what you describe I beleive are known as post guide-ons. I was leaning in that direction. I may just purchase a set at the local marine store and will let you know, Ron too, how they work out.
Don, what you describe I beleive are known as post guide-ons. I was leaning in that direction. I may just purchase a set at the local marine store and will let you know, Ron too, how they work out.
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Steve
Reasonably Cheap Approach
I had the same problem with my DS I. I bought these fiberglass rods from a homae improvement store (Home Depot). The rods are orange and about the thickness of a pencil. They're normally used as driveway markers. Next I bought 2 springs which fit snugly on the rod and only insert the rod an inch or so. I then bought some galvanized stock from a hardware store which has holes every half inch. Cut to length, I fastened one piece to each trailer fender. On the part that sticks out laterally, I fastened a bolt through the bottom (the head of the bolt is closest to the ground). The bottom of the spring fits over a stainless steel bolt which is sized to fit snugly into the spring. Sharp corners must be ground to dull edge to keep anyone from getting scratched who walks close along side.Hope this all makes sense. In summary, I used 2 rods on springs attached to a bracket which extends out from the trailer fenders. I recommend 2 bolts to attach bracket to each fender to prevent the bracket from pivoting. Of course stainless was my first choice but I wound up using galvanized for now. When loading, I aim to guide the boat between the rods within an inch each side, I set each gap to 1 inch. The springs will give way if you error, you simply move the boat back a little and try it again.
I had the same problem with my DS I. I bought these fiberglass rods from a homae improvement store (Home Depot). The rods are orange and about the thickness of a pencil. They're normally used as driveway markers. Next I bought 2 springs which fit snugly on the rod and only insert the rod an inch or so. I then bought some galvanized stock from a hardware store which has holes every half inch. Cut to length, I fastened one piece to each trailer fender. On the part that sticks out laterally, I fastened a bolt through the bottom (the head of the bolt is closest to the ground). The bottom of the spring fits over a stainless steel bolt which is sized to fit snugly into the spring. Sharp corners must be ground to dull edge to keep anyone from getting scratched who walks close along side.Hope this all makes sense. In summary, I used 2 rods on springs attached to a bracket which extends out from the trailer fenders. I recommend 2 bolts to attach bracket to each fender to prevent the bracket from pivoting. Of course stainless was my first choice but I wound up using galvanized for now. When loading, I aim to guide the boat between the rods within an inch each side, I set each gap to 1 inch. The springs will give way if you error, you simply move the boat back a little and try it again.
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