Possibly One of My Best Ideas Yet.

[senang]

...any chance that you know the fuel line diameters for the engine/generator

My bet is on 3/8”. At least that is the size of the fuel hoses on my H38. Fuel hose comes only in certain fixed sizes AFAIK.

 

[artboas]

Looks like I'm off to start sourcing parts for another "Art Boas Original" (pat pend) upgrade to my H49. Going to be a busy winter, as I also have an aft AC unit to replace and I'm 1/2 way thru Art's water pump relocation project.
Art - since my boat's an hour and a half away, any chance that you know the fuel line diameters for the engine/generator? It'll let me go ahead and get the Colder fittings ordered.

Thanks -

T J

The engine is 5-16, and the genset is 1/4”
Note; this was from factory this way. If not a factory instal, your mileage may vary
When you do this, decide if you want to go the “manifold route “ or “free hanging method”
Greatly prefer the manifold design
The parts are almost the same cost (very reasonable), and the finished upgrade looks so much better
To cut the holes in the aluminum angle iron, use a Xmas tree drill bit.
Super accurate, no chattering, incredibly easy to do with hand drill versus dril press.

good luch

Artboas.

 

[Scott NIelsen]

Looks good. I did something somewhat similar. The attached pictures doesn't have assembly instructions per se, however the pictures them solve pretty much tell the story for creating your own. just modify for your boat for mounting. I made this about four years ago.

 

[Tedd]

Very nice set up! Also, this...

My first “trick” with this is that I never use wood screws or self-tapping in any application where the
item may need to be removed for service

...is gold. It's classic deferred gratification. A few minutes spent, now, to use fastening that's easier to deal with later pays off for years. I think a lot of people see "captive" fastenings, such as the Weldmount studs you mentioned, as something esoteric. Granted, you can't usually find stuff like that at the local hardware store but, these days, it's amazing what you can buy on line. You can buy Weldmount studs on Amazon!

 

[artboas]

Very nice set up! Also, this...

...is gold. It's classic deferred gratification. A few minutes spent, now, to use fastening that's easier to deal with later pays off for years. I think a lot of people see "captive" fastenings, such as the Weldmount studs you mentioned, as something esoteric. Granted, you can't usually find stuff like that at the local hardware store but, these days, it's amazing what you can buy on line. You can buy Weldmount studs on Amazon!

Thank you for this comment.
There are several easy ways to put machine screw posts into wood, without going the Weldmount route
You can simply install brass inserts, and wind in a threaded rod., You can make the threaded rod by “snapping” the head off of any long stainless screw.
To install the threaded rod, put 2 nuts on it locked to each other. Put a dab of Loctite on the threads, wind it in, and then uncrack the nuts & remove them.
Or, use an acorn nut on the end, which you remove once the locktite sets up
If you don’t have high strength locktite handy, a dab of epoxy works just fine.
The point is that there are many easy ways to make quick posts with the hardware you have on board

 

[artboas]

Thank you for this comment.
There are several easy ways to put machine screw posts into wood, without going the Weldmount route
You can simply install brass inserts, and wind in a threaded rod., You can make the threaded rod by “snapping” the head off of any long stainless screw.
To install the threaded rod, put 2 nuts on it locked to each other. Put a dab of Loctite on the threads, wind it in, and then uncrack the nuts & remove them.
Or, use an acorn nut on the end, which you remove once the locktite sets up
If you don’t have high strength locktite handy, a dab of epoxy works just fine.
The point is that there are many easy ways to make quick posts with the hardware you have on board

Ok, I’m finished now…

I totally went to town finishing up the fuel filter access issues.
As well, Hunter mounted the genset fuel pump in a very inaccessible location
I’m sure that my original setup will be identical to most 49 /50AC boats
What Hunter did was to mount all of these components on the wood wall just in front of the fuel tank.
The wood was an mdf material, and just taking the screws out once totally pulled out the wood in chips from the original hole.
What was particularly scary was that the screws were JUST short enough that they didn’t Go through the fuel tank on the other side of the wood bulkhead. I fear that when people remove theses filters to change them over, a fuel tank puncture could happen.

Hunter used incredibly strong stainless C Channel beams to hold the fuel tank in place.
This was clearly good engineering practice, as a full fuel tank in this boat weighs almost 1 ton. They could have done this cheaper, but I really appreciate how they ended up making this. By unbolting sections of the C channel, the tank could be removed if necessary.

I used the lateral section of the C channel as the mounting platform for both filters and re-installation of the pump.
In all 3 cases, I used short 2x2 aluminum angle sections which I bolted to the C channel. (Very tough to drill through)
By threading these, it gave me mounting studs to hang the filters from.
As stated before, all I need to do is unspin 2 nuts, unplug the fuel filter connectors , and pop the whole assy in a bucket.
Then, after changing the filter, and pre-charging it with fuel, you simply hang it up, and plug it in.
No fuel bleeding required whatsoever. Just turns on, and runs. And not a drop of fuel in the boat.
And here’s how the final job looked