Better to prepare totally. You are on a mooring in mid canal? This is actually the safest situation since your boat won't be bumping against any one else. You need to take down anything that can blow. I don't know how much you can remove, but no sails should be on the boat to blow. It is possible that you could use screw clamps wrapped in tubing placed at 3 or four places on the furls jib and tied together so that they would all have to slip together, but if you can take it off that would be better. If you have an OB put it in the boat. If you can remove the rudder remove that too and put it inside.
Lash down all lines tight so that nothing can blow.
The boat will be into the wind, and water will come up over the bow, so everything needs to be sealed fore-ward---no hatches not cleated from the inside, which can blow open, and no anchor openings.
Seal your cabin hatch, and lock it---it can come loose. Put duct tape all around the edges to stop water from possibly coming in there.
Your biggest issue is the pendant connection to the mooring line. According to my research, your biggest issue there is chaff causing the line to get hot and the fibers to let go. If you connect a cyclone dyneema pre-pendant to the thick nylon mooring pendant this will be eliminated. The dyneema is stronger than steel cable and it won't stretch, so it won't chaff(move forward and backward stretching on the bow chock). Your mooring line is nylon and it will stretch where it should, not connected to anything that can chaff. If don't have one if these, expect to pay $150 for a three foot cyclone dyneema mooring pendant. My cylcone pendant which connects to my deck cleat also has a tiny bungee around it as it goes into the horn cleat to keep the loop together.
I have a mooring in the channel of Frenchman's Bay off of Mount Desert Island, Maine. This is what we do up here if we cannot either get our boats to a safe harbor mooring, or get them out of the water.
Lash down all lines tight so that nothing can blow.
The boat will be into the wind, and water will come up over the bow, so everything needs to be sealed fore-ward---no hatches not cleated from the inside, which can blow open, and no anchor openings.
Seal your cabin hatch, and lock it---it can come loose. Put duct tape all around the edges to stop water from possibly coming in there.
Your biggest issue is the pendant connection to the mooring line. According to my research, your biggest issue there is chaff causing the line to get hot and the fibers to let go. If you connect a cyclone dyneema pre-pendant to the thick nylon mooring pendant this will be eliminated. The dyneema is stronger than steel cable and it won't stretch, so it won't chaff(move forward and backward stretching on the bow chock). Your mooring line is nylon and it will stretch where it should, not connected to anything that can chaff. If don't have one if these, expect to pay $150 for a three foot cyclone dyneema mooring pendant. My cylcone pendant which connects to my deck cleat also has a tiny bungee around it as it goes into the horn cleat to keep the loop together.
I have a mooring in the channel of Frenchman's Bay off of Mount Desert Island, Maine. This is what we do up here if we cannot either get our boats to a safe harbor mooring, or get them out of the water.