I'm a new owner of a "77" Hunter 27. I've read much about replacing portlights but can't find the proper replacement. I'm looking to replace the port side aft portlight, fixed and aprox. 36 inches long with an angled aft edge. Anyone know of a drop in replacement? Also, the diesel tank is not in the boat and I need to replace it without knowing the dimensions and fitting arrangement. Any help there would be appreciated. Leo
Portlights
- Thread starter spflyer
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H27 fixed portlight.
Where is everybody? There are lots of H27 owners around but the must all be sailing. All of my H37C portlights are standard size openers so I have little experience with fixed. But I would venture a guess that no one makes a replacement because it really is not a portlight. I think that you just need to pull the "plastic" out and have a new piece cut to match. It is probably just a standard thickness of lexan. Whatever the material I think you could take it to your local glass shop and they could match it.
Where is everybody? There are lots of H27 owners around but the must all be sailing. All of my H37C portlights are standard size openers so I have little experience with fixed. But I would venture a guess that no one makes a replacement because it really is not a portlight. I think that you just need to pull the "plastic" out and have a new piece cut to match. It is probably just a standard thickness of lexan. Whatever the material I think you could take it to your local glass shop and they could match it.
portlight
I pulled the seal out of the frame and the plastic window itself will not come out of the frame. The frame is in made in two pieces and then the glass put in and the frame bonded back to gether. I could separate the two frame, but if I break it I'm in bad shape. the plastic is a bit crazed but I can live with it. I'll probably seal the glass inside the frame and rebed the window. I just thought that if there was a drop in replacement I'd go for it. Leo
I pulled the seal out of the frame and the plastic window itself will not come out of the frame. The frame is in made in two pieces and then the glass put in and the frame bonded back to gether. I could separate the two frame, but if I break it I'm in bad shape. the plastic is a bit crazed but I can live with it. I'll probably seal the glass inside the frame and rebed the window. I just thought that if there was a drop in replacement I'd go for it. Leo
Forget repair
I tried and failed to raise Mark Plastics over several weeks in early '06 so I repaired my '79 Hunter 27 fixed ports myself. I would not do it again. Hunter used very, very good adhesive to glue the plastic in the channel inside the two halves of the frame. I cut the lexan close to the frame, and then broke it out in small pieces with a pliers. It took a solid week. I put the ports back together with Dow Corning 795 sealant and JB Weld, but not quite leak free. Worse, I have crazing already on one of the trapezoidal ports, which have a gentle curve that I couldn't figure out how to replicate on the workbench. Considering the hours I invested, I would have better off fabricating new frames out of fiberglass or wood. I'll measure the tank for you tomorrow. Mine is strapped to the floor of the locker on the starboard side of the cockpit all the way to the front.
I tried and failed to raise Mark Plastics over several weeks in early '06 so I repaired my '79 Hunter 27 fixed ports myself. I would not do it again. Hunter used very, very good adhesive to glue the plastic in the channel inside the two halves of the frame. I cut the lexan close to the frame, and then broke it out in small pieces with a pliers. It took a solid week. I put the ports back together with Dow Corning 795 sealant and JB Weld, but not quite leak free. Worse, I have crazing already on one of the trapezoidal ports, which have a gentle curve that I couldn't figure out how to replicate on the workbench. Considering the hours I invested, I would have better off fabricating new frames out of fiberglass or wood. I'll measure the tank for you tomorrow. Mine is strapped to the floor of the locker on the starboard side of the cockpit all the way to the front.
Get some lexan
and cut it on a table saw to size. Then use a sander or router to shape the corners. It is MESSY. You can just cut out the old plastic with a knife to cut the sealant and pry it as you go. It is really hard to break them. Clean the sealing surfaces really well and lightly sand them to be sure.
and cut it on a table saw to size. Then use a sander or router to shape the corners. It is MESSY. You can just cut out the old plastic with a knife to cut the sealant and pry it as you go. It is really hard to break them. Clean the sealing surfaces really well and lightly sand them to be sure.
hope your ports are like Patrick's
Mine weren't sealed; they were glued. I was able to break the bond along the sides with great difficulty but the remaining bond along the bottom of the channel was not in any way pry-able. If yours are like mine, you'll need a Dremel tool in addition to sandpaper. You'll need it to remove the bits of lexan left in the corners of the channel when the acrylic breaks rather the bond. At least you are only doing one rather than four. Well, maybe. I found some rot when I removed the 'lights on '79 27. (Hunter left the wood core exposed.) I ended up 'glassing over the edges of all eight port openings. My advice five years later is don't make extra work for yourself.
Mine weren't sealed; they were glued. I was able to break the bond along the sides with great difficulty but the remaining bond along the bottom of the channel was not in any way pry-able. If yours are like mine, you'll need a Dremel tool in addition to sandpaper. You'll need it to remove the bits of lexan left in the corners of the channel when the acrylic breaks rather the bond. At least you are only doing one rather than four. Well, maybe. I found some rot when I removed the 'lights on '79 27. (Hunter left the wood core exposed.) I ended up 'glassing over the edges of all eight port openings. My advice five years later is don't make extra work for yourself.
Tank dimensions
My tank is 10 inches high, 16 inches wide and 18 inches long. It has a capacity of 12 gallons, and is not original judging by a manufacturing date of 7/92 stamped on it. When I removed the tank to clean it, it took some manuevering to get it through the hatch, which is 11.5 inches wide on my '79. I guess the original tank was taller and skinnier. Your fittings are spot on. My return goes to the tank rather than the filter. I have a fifth opening for a fuel gauge, which is pretty useful.
My tank is 10 inches high, 16 inches wide and 18 inches long. It has a capacity of 12 gallons, and is not original judging by a manufacturing date of 7/92 stamped on it. When I removed the tank to clean it, it took some manuevering to get it through the hatch, which is 11.5 inches wide on my '79. I guess the original tank was taller and skinnier. Your fittings are spot on. My return goes to the tank rather than the filter. I have a fifth opening for a fuel gauge, which is pretty useful.
Tank size
Man, am I glad you posted the tank size. I measured the space where it had to fit without thinking about the hatch opening. You're right, it's 11 1/2, tapering to around 11. I never would have been able to get the tank I ordered in there. I was able to contact the builder who had scheduled my tank for today or Monday. Caught him just in the nick of time. I deleted the pic and will post a new pic when he sends me the cad drawing. I changed the dimension to 10 wide, 18 long and 12 high. That should slip in pretty easily. Without doing the math I'm guessing it will be around 11 gallons. You saved me a ton of grief, thanks tmason. Leo
Man, am I glad you posted the tank size. I measured the space where it had to fit without thinking about the hatch opening. You're right, it's 11 1/2, tapering to around 11. I never would have been able to get the tank I ordered in there. I was able to contact the builder who had scheduled my tank for today or Monday. Caught him just in the nick of time. I deleted the pic and will post a new pic when he sends me the cad drawing. I changed the dimension to 10 wide, 18 long and 12 high. That should slip in pretty easily. Without doing the math I'm guessing it will be around 11 gallons. You saved me a ton of grief, thanks tmason. Leo
Been there done that with a waste tank
Skinnier will work better. You won't have to siphon it dry to remove it. My tank had a quarter inch of crud on its walls. My radiator guy still marvels at the life force of whatever organism had colonized it. I found it after boasting to my wife that there wasn't anything on my boat at that point that I hadn't replaced or repaired. If you are bringing your '77 back from near death, believe me, you are not lacking for work.
Skinnier will work better. You won't have to siphon it dry to remove it. My tank had a quarter inch of crud on its walls. My radiator guy still marvels at the life force of whatever organism had colonized it. I found it after boasting to my wife that there wasn't anything on my boat at that point that I hadn't replaced or repaired. If you are bringing your '77 back from near death, believe me, you are not lacking for work.
Brett, how much for the Bomon
Brett: How much was the port from Bomon? When did you get it? I have seen them at the boat show and they really look nice.
Brett: How much was the port from Bomon? When did you get it? I have seen them at the boat show and they really look nice.
Yet more questions
This forum has been awesome. I hope the hell that I don't have to replace this SB8 because $3,300 is three times what I have in this boat. Any clue where I can get a manual for that SB8? It's a dinasour. I have a few rather easy questions. The backrests on the main berths are missing. The teak brackets that they hang on are still in place, but I don't know what they actually look like. Some pictuers show them upholstered with cutouts so that the area behind can be used for storage. I really need to step aboard one of these boats that's complete. My question is what are they made of? and where the heck do you put them when you're using the berths for sleeping? I'm faced with replacing the plumbing as the previous owner pulled all the tubing out. The tank is there but the pump is not. I can't see any screw holes anywhere near where it looks like the pump should be located. The only clue I have is that it might be on the aft side of the bulkhead that separates the tank compartment from the small storage area that's accessed from a door below the v-berth. Where is the pump supposed to be. I would think that it should be as close to the tank as possible. Was there ever a bilge blower installed in these boats? There is none in mine and from what I can see there never was. You guys are great. Leo
This forum has been awesome. I hope the hell that I don't have to replace this SB8 because $3,300 is three times what I have in this boat. Any clue where I can get a manual for that SB8? It's a dinasour. I have a few rather easy questions. The backrests on the main berths are missing. The teak brackets that they hang on are still in place, but I don't know what they actually look like. Some pictuers show them upholstered with cutouts so that the area behind can be used for storage. I really need to step aboard one of these boats that's complete. My question is what are they made of? and where the heck do you put them when you're using the berths for sleeping? I'm faced with replacing the plumbing as the previous owner pulled all the tubing out. The tank is there but the pump is not. I can't see any screw holes anywhere near where it looks like the pump should be located. The only clue I have is that it might be on the aft side of the bulkhead that separates the tank compartment from the small storage area that's accessed from a door below the v-berth. Where is the pump supposed to be. I would think that it should be as close to the tank as possible. Was there ever a bilge blower installed in these boats? There is none in mine and from what I can see there never was. You guys are great. Leo
diagrams
This is a link to the "manual" for the 27 and other Cherubini Hunters. http://www.murphygraphics.com/hunter/ and a link to engine info older QM engine which may or may not help. http://www.4shared.com/account/dir/6215459/3b19830d/sharing.html?rnd=82 Best to you with - messing around in boats.
This is a link to the "manual" for the 27 and other Cherubini Hunters. http://www.murphygraphics.com/hunter/ and a link to engine info older QM engine which may or may not help. http://www.4shared.com/account/dir/6215459/3b19830d/sharing.html?rnd=82 Best to you with - messing around in boats.
Answers
In reverse order: There is no bilge blower. The engine compartment doesn't drain to the bilge and it's diesel anyway. To keep the boat fresh, I throw in bilge cleaner and a gallon of water and let it slosh. The plumbing on this boat wasn't pressurized. The head and galley sinks have hand pump faucets. The back rests were made of several plies (two?) of teak plywood that were upholstered and five or so inches wide. For sleeping, they were to be moved to a second set of brackets at the outer edge of the berth to keep the person from rolling out. They are pretty much useless in either position. They weren't sturdy enough to lean back against. And no one I know would be sleeping at all in weather that requires berth containment. I made back cushions that can be dropped between the berths to make a single crosswise bed 60 inches wide and 80 some inches long. Very comfortable. I have a manual for the SB8, which I would be happy to mail to you. Torresen Marine in Michigan has some parts. www.marinedieseldirect.com. Mack Boring in NJ is another source. www.mackboring.com Alas, the point of diminishing returns is right under your nose. Mack Boring told me in '04 that I could order a new head from Japan for the modest price of $750. There are no used parts. I sold mine for scrap because it had been eaten by rust from the inside to the point that I couldn't in good conscience sell it in pieces. $3.3k is repowering on the cheap. To have it done with a new engine is more like $10k, and used is $4k to $5k. But you did buy right.
In reverse order: There is no bilge blower. The engine compartment doesn't drain to the bilge and it's diesel anyway. To keep the boat fresh, I throw in bilge cleaner and a gallon of water and let it slosh. The plumbing on this boat wasn't pressurized. The head and galley sinks have hand pump faucets. The back rests were made of several plies (two?) of teak plywood that were upholstered and five or so inches wide. For sleeping, they were to be moved to a second set of brackets at the outer edge of the berth to keep the person from rolling out. They are pretty much useless in either position. They weren't sturdy enough to lean back against. And no one I know would be sleeping at all in weather that requires berth containment. I made back cushions that can be dropped between the berths to make a single crosswise bed 60 inches wide and 80 some inches long. Very comfortable. I have a manual for the SB8, which I would be happy to mail to you. Torresen Marine in Michigan has some parts. www.marinedieseldirect.com. Mack Boring in NJ is another source. www.mackboring.com Alas, the point of diminishing returns is right under your nose. Mack Boring told me in '04 that I could order a new head from Japan for the modest price of $750. There are no used parts. I sold mine for scrap because it had been eaten by rust from the inside to the point that I couldn't in good conscience sell it in pieces. $3.3k is repowering on the cheap. To have it done with a new engine is more like $10k, and used is $4k to $5k. But you did buy right.
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