Portlight Gasket Installation

njlarry · Oct 1, 2015

I find the beckson design to be a b#@&*! I used a combination of stretching, heat,ice picks,small screw drivers and wasted hours replacing six and one of them still will not stay put. Sometimes you have to cut the gasket at the seam, just make sure that the cut seam is at the top.
If there is an easy replacement it would worth putting in a different brand.

Mark Maulden · Oct 2, 2015

They are a pain in the butt. I assume u read the instructions on their website? U can also call and discuss. Theyre happy to spend the time with you

njlarry · Oct 2, 2015

Cutting the gasket allows the pre formed corners to align better. Putting the cut seam at the top helps keep it water tight.

JamesG161 · Oct 4, 2015

I replaced my Lewmar Old port light gaskets, but I am sure the technique is the same, if the gasket material is spongy rubber (normally EDPM marine).
http://www.hatchmasters.com/index.php?cPath=207&&page=1
This company and its tech really know what to do. They had my exact window size and knew the gasket material and install glue.

Basically it is like making an O-Ring...
If you have the intact old gasket for length, it helps, but you cut your gasket slight longer, overlapping, so the cutting passes thru both ends to give an even cut. Using what is almost the same as Super Glue, you start at the top/center and press the gasket in the grove. You put a drop of glue on gasket and grove before and after each turn. Wait about 20 seconds, and continue around the seal. As the ends meet at the top, put a drop on each end to "mate" them together. Hold for 20.
The glue keeps the gasket from "creeping out".

On my boat, they put the mating point at the bottom where any water accumulates. Thats why put the mating ends at the top of grove.

I suspect most port light companies use standard gasket stock, some new ones are oval, some old ones have a grove insert.
You might call this company for more help.
Jim...

BayAreaGuy · Feb 8, 2024

I just acquired '97 C-380 equipped with a BUNCH of Lewmar Old Standard opening portlights. It is Feb 2024 now, and I've learned Lewmar, Catalina Direct, Hatchmasters, Defender...you name it...no gots. Discontinued item.

I may be foolish to try this, but anyone out there have success "forming" their own gasket? I'm considering laying a bead of sealant and mic'ing it for consistent height/depth, allowing it to cure, trim w precision blade if needed, and set-for-seal. Risky proposition, I realize.

Other crazy idea is off-the-shelf automotive door gasket material I found in a couple sizes which I think I *might* be able to cut to fit. Maybe. MAYBE?

Help?

dlochner · Feb 8, 2024

The original Lewmar Standards are no longer being supported. There is probably a hack that might work, but who knows. The good news is the new ports are the same size. I just replaced an old Standard 2 with a brand new Standard 2 it was a drop in.

Hello Below · Feb 8, 2024

LEWMAR Standard Portlight Old & New Replacement Seal Sold length by the meter

BayAreaGuy · Feb 19, 2024

Hello Below said:
LEWMAR Standard Portlight Old & New Replacement Seal Sold length by the meter

Thank you for the reference to these gaskets on eBay.

The seller page linked above has some good cross-sectional photography and illustrations of the three different types manufactured over time: old standard, new standardwith old pattern, and new standard with new pattern.

As with all these other dead ends, I am afraid if you click the selection box, you will see that the old standard gaskets are grayed out and in parentheses labeled not available.

So clearly, I have few options. Since OEM gaskets are nowhere to be found, I either replace all port lights entirely with the Lewmar new standard models of the same sizes, or get lab experiments going in my different port lights to see what I can conjure up and possibly attain a good water seal.

regards.

dlochner · Feb 19, 2024

BayAreaGuy said:
So clearly, I have few options. Since OEM gaskets are nowhere to be found, I either replace all port lights entirely with the Lewmar new standard models of the same sizes, or get lab experiments going in my different port lights to see what I can conjure up and possibly attain a good water seal.

When I was faced with the same dilemma I went with Lewmar new standard port lights. Surprisingly, I found West Marine to have the best price on the New Standard 2 Opening port.

Hello Below · Feb 20, 2024

BayAreaGuy said:
Thank you for the reference to these gaskets on eBay.

PM sent to you regarding eBay seller of Lewmar portlight seals.

helinox · Feb 28, 2024

made an account just to let you know, Boat window & hatch refurbishment | Eagle Boat Windows | England in the UK has apparently acquired the lewmar tooling for old standard seals. meanwhile the guy on ebay is getting them made overseas. more stock on order from him, expected in the next weeks.

aside: anyone have any favorite tools for getting the silicone out? i have about 8 linear meters to remove. pictures of your homemade scrapers most welcome.

dLj · Feb 28, 2024

helinox said:
aside: anyone have any favorite tools for getting the silicone out? i have about 8 linear meters to remove. pictures of your homemade scrapers most welcome.

All I can say is it can be a beast of a job.

I found using a surgical scalpel (find on Amazon and buy a good sized package so you have many) - to cut the side seals the silicon could then be pulled out more easily. Not that anything is particularly easy on that job...

dj

dlochner · Feb 28, 2024

There are caulking removing products that will soften the caulk making it easier to remove. Check a hardware store. There is also Marine DeBond which will do the same, however it is pretty expensive. Marine Debond will even remove 5200 or so they claim.

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/336500

helinox · Feb 28, 2024

@dLj excellent idea, I imagine I can grind to shape too. Ordered.
@dlochner thanks for the idea, have you had any experience with that? my understanding is that it doesn't much work on silicone and might attach the hinges, seals, and anything else around. Eagle specifically recommends _not_ to use anything, but I'm all ears about things to make this job less awful

dlochner · Feb 28, 2024

helinox said:
@dLj excellent idea, I imagine I can grind to shape too. Ordered.
@dlochner thanks for the idea, have you had any experience with that? my understanding is that it doesn't much work on silicone and might attach the hinges, seals, and anything else around. Eagle specifically recommends _not_ to use anything, but I'm all ears about things to make this job less awful

I didn't realize the port frames were plastic. Debond is probably not a good product. All of my port frames are metal. So, I've never used any caulk remover on a plastic frame.

I have used Goo Gone on metal frames and a 3m product. One of them might work.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Goo-Gone-Caulk-Remover-Removes-Silicone-Caulk-Foam-Sealants-Water-Based-Formula-Biodegradable-Fresh-Citrus-Scent/1000197363

dLj · Feb 28, 2024

I've not had luck with the solvents. They just seemed to make a messy job even messier. The surgical scalpels worked the best for me. I also bought small wire brushes to clean the flat bottom. I used about 1 brush per hatch, but I had pretty big hatches and metal frames. With plastic frames it might be less work on these brushes.

4458A22 is the Mcmaster-Carr part number for the brushes I used. They worked quite well for me, but again, I was in metal frames. I would think using caution, these should work on your frames also. These are 1/4" in diameter. My lenses had a large surface area - not sure how big the groove is in what you are doing.

dj