I have a 22 and am heading to the Keys in December. Although I'm going alone and only need to dump every 2 or 3 weeks, I think life would be simpler if I put a through hull fitting and hose to get cleaned out down there. I called pumpusa and they won't touch a porta-potty, only through hull. Found the fitting but 1 1/2 " flexible hose, is impossible to find. I only need about 5' max. It's a lot of work to set up the cap etc, but worth it not to have to look for a RV style dump. Any ideas?
Portable
- Thread starter mrducks
- Start date
Your simplest solution would be to replace your portable with an "MSD" model ("MSD" means designed to be permanently mounted and is fitted for pump out. In fact, if you're handy with a hole saw, it wouldn't be THAT hard to convert your portable to an "MSD" model...you'd only need to install a fitting for the vent line and the pumpout line....and that's fairly easy, thanks to a li'l doodad called the Uniseal. UNISEAL
That and a few feet of PVC pipe for hose barbs and some hose are all you'd need to convert the potty. You'd also need a vent thru-hull and deck pumpout fitting, both of which are easier and cheaper than thru-hull and seacock.
You can revert to portable by simply removing the hoses and capping the PVC.
Contact me directly if you want to brainstorm the details.
That and a few feet of PVC pipe for hose barbs and some hose are all you'd need to convert the potty. You'd also need a vent thru-hull and deck pumpout fitting, both of which are easier and cheaper than thru-hull and seacock.
You can revert to portable by simply removing the hoses and capping the PVC.
Contact me directly if you want to brainstorm the details.
Thanks Peggie, you picked up on what I'm trying to do. I meant to say deck fitting instead of through hull. I have found an assortment that will work that include the cap. No easy task finding the right size hole saw but am hopeful. I plan to use the 1 1/2' which seem to be adequate for all pump stations, and one with a barbed fitting for hose on the underside. The plan, is to install the fitting and simply run a short hose to the bottom of the holding tank. Not perfect, but it should get most of the contents, particularly if using a bag of stuff that came with the toilet. It helps with odor, but to my pleasant surprise, turns all the stuff into a liquid. Where I'm at a dead end is the hose. It needs to be flexible enough to curve over to the tank, and still be 1 1/2" ID. I know, it would be messy to remove the hose and clean, but I don't see an easier option. I don't want a fixed plumbing affair, that opens you up to USCG inspection. Plus, if I need to, or find one, I can still pull the tank and dump it. One would think hose that size would be common, but no luck so far. There is some corrugated stuff, but I prefer a slick inner tube that would not trap crap on the sides. I welcome any ideas or further advice you might offer. Thanks, Dave
How flexible are we talking ?
In my previous life, I used to sell PVC tubing that was 1.5" i.d. 2" o.d., it might be stiff enough to handle the suction of pumping out without collapsing, depending on vent size.
I also sold silicone and conventional rubber hose that was 1/5 i.d. but I suspect it wouldn't be anywhere near flexible enough for your needs.
Marine sanitation hose is available that has small corrugations on the inside, compared to other corrugated hose.
FWIW: I'd contact a hose wholesaler and they should be able to tell you where to get what you need locally. That way you get what you need and save on shipping costs.
Calling many retailers is a bit of a joke nowadays. Many don't know much of anything other than the product they see on their POS system.
For out of the ordinary stuff, I usually find out what I need from a manufacturer or wholesaler and they tell me where I can buy it.
Worst case, you could call a company named "Thermoplastic Processes" aka "Thermo". They were one of my suppliers and they made a large number of different tubing types. if they don't make something you can use, they may know someone who does.
In my previous life, I used to sell PVC tubing that was 1.5" i.d. 2" o.d., it might be stiff enough to handle the suction of pumping out without collapsing, depending on vent size.
I also sold silicone and conventional rubber hose that was 1/5 i.d. but I suspect it wouldn't be anywhere near flexible enough for your needs.
Marine sanitation hose is available that has small corrugations on the inside, compared to other corrugated hose.
FWIW: I'd contact a hose wholesaler and they should be able to tell you where to get what you need locally. That way you get what you need and save on shipping costs.
Calling many retailers is a bit of a joke nowadays. Many don't know much of anything other than the product they see on their POS system.
For out of the ordinary stuff, I usually find out what I need from a manufacturer or wholesaler and they tell me where I can buy it.
Worst case, you could call a company named "Thermoplastic Processes" aka "Thermo". They were one of my suppliers and they made a large number of different tubing types. if they don't make something you can use, they may know someone who does.
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And they do NOT leak! Raritan has a super-flexible 1.5" sanitation hose...it's pricy though...about $13/ft.
Don't forget you'll also need a vent....there's more than one way to skin that cat, though. And a relatively easy way to eliminate any "nastiness" when you disconnect hoses.
I like that idea, and think it would do the job. Any idea who might sell it? I can get the reducer, no problem. Chula Vista?? I lived in Imperial Beach for a couple of years, back when it was still safe to go over the border....Thanks Wuf
You've totally confused me with those statements:
If you use a 1-1/4 thru hull or a 1-1/2 thru with a 1-1/4 pvc reducer, you can use standard 1-1/2 sanitation hose.
Stated hose size is always the ID of the hose....Fittings sizes are always stated as the OD of the fitting. So why would you need a reducer to use a 1.5" thru-hull with 1.5" hose?
The key to getting the hose onto the 1-1/4" pipe is to file a very slight bevel on the pipe and heat the hose with a hair dryer.
A 1.5" hose would be too LARGE for a 1.25" OD fitting. However, If you're talking about plain PVC pipe, 1.25" ID pipe would have a 1.5" OD, which would fit 1.5" with only a little warmth and lubrication...dishwashing liquid is the industry choice...K-Y surgical jelly has always my favorite 'cuz it's LOT slicker and is water soluble. so it dries out. Never use any oil or grease that remains permanently slippery..it'll let hose work its way off fittings.
If you use a 1-1/4 thru hull or a 1-1/2 thru with a 1-1/4 pvc reducer, you can use standard 1-1/2 sanitation hose.
Stated hose size is always the ID of the hose....Fittings sizes are always stated as the OD of the fitting. So why would you need a reducer to use a 1.5" thru-hull with 1.5" hose?
The key to getting the hose onto the 1-1/4" pipe is to file a very slight bevel on the pipe and heat the hose with a hair dryer.
A 1.5" hose would be too LARGE for a 1.25" OD fitting. However, If you're talking about plain PVC pipe, 1.25" ID pipe would have a 1.5" OD, which would fit 1.5" with only a little warmth and lubrication...dishwashing liquid is the industry choice...K-Y surgical jelly has always my favorite 'cuz it's LOT slicker and is water soluble. so it dries out. Never use any oil or grease that remains permanently slippery..it'll let hose work its way off fittings.
I keep seeing the same heavy duty hose that is "simi rigid", Ace sells it by the foot and it is stiff, BUT, had an idea. In the past I have had good luck using a heat gun on material like that and gently getting a bend without kinks. Once cooled, it would stay and be very convenient. So I'll get a length from ACE and give it a try before paying the high prices the online stores want.
Sorry. The ID of 1-1/2" sanitation hose is a hair smaller than the OD of 1-14 pvc pipe. When the hose is heated a bit, it will slip onto the pipe and make a perfect fit. I'm not sure about slipping the hose over the threads of a 1-1/4" thru hull. I was working with a 1-1/4" thru hull. Used a 1-14 threaded X 1-1/4 slip coupling into which I cemented a piece of 1-1/4 pipe to create a nipple for the 1-1/2" hose.
Marine hoses and fittings are made to match size for size...iow, a 1.5" hose fits a 1.5" fitting perfectly, barbed or smooth. The only exception is a dark gray 1.5" thread-barb ABS holding tank fitting...for reasons known only to God and the plumbing industry, a nominal 1.5" thread x 1.5" barb, is ACTUAL 1.5" OD thread x 1.5" ID barb, which makes 'em 1-5/8" OD...making 'em impossible to put a 1.5" hose on the d'd things. They drove boat owners crazy for years, but it's been a while since I've heard or seen any complaints about 'em, so they may no longer be sold in marine market.
But I can't figure out why you're using thru-hulls unless you're plumbing to dump the tank and need to put one in the hull. If that's what you want to use for tank fittings, you'll need to use rubber gaskets under the flange inside the tank and under the nut on the outside of the tank. In fact, I'm a bit baffled by your whole plan--and after 25+ years in marine sanitation, I'm not easy to baffle! It seems to me that you're over-engineering something that should be so simple! So I'm gonna bow out now and wish you luck with it.
But I can't figure out why you're using thru-hulls unless you're plumbing to dump the tank and need to put one in the hull. If that's what you want to use for tank fittings, you'll need to use rubber gaskets under the flange inside the tank and under the nut on the outside of the tank. In fact, I'm a bit baffled by your whole plan--and after 25+ years in marine sanitation, I'm not easy to baffle! It seems to me that you're over-engineering something that should be so simple! So I'm gonna bow out now and wish you luck with it.
Peggie, apparently I failed to explain the plan well. The deck plate is an absolute must to get pumped out in the Keys. From the fitting, a Perko with 1 1/2 steel tube, I will run a hose from it to the bottom of the holding tank through the opened toilet door. Very simple, a deck plate and hose, that's all. When done, remove hose, clean it and put away in sturdy bag. Sorry if I made this sound more complex than it is.
Now I get it....that's a LOT simpler! The thru-hull is actually the deck pumpout fitting? If so, a 1.5" (nominal, which would be the ID) will fit the barb on it. Just warm--WARM, not heat!--it and lube both the inside of the hose and the outside of the barb.
I would recommend that you connect the other end of the hose to a "fitting"--just a piece of PVC pipe that goes to the bottom of the tank, with enough above to connect the hose, a good use for the Uniseal...you'll have a MUCH cleaner hose to disconnect and put away than one that's been IN sewage.. Pour a bucket of water into the tank via the "trap door" during pumpout after the tank is empty to rinse out the tank AND the hose.
I would recommend that you connect the other end of the hose to a "fitting"--just a piece of PVC pipe that goes to the bottom of the tank, with enough above to connect the hose, a good use for the Uniseal...you'll have a MUCH cleaner hose to disconnect and put away than one that's been IN sewage.. Pour a bucket of water into the tank via the "trap door" during pumpout after the tank is empty to rinse out the tank AND the hose.
I have been following this post and was having a difficult time understanding, makes more sense to me now.
What I was considering was using the Uniseal in the cap of my porti-pottie tank inserting a length of PVC with maybe a 45 elbow to make sure it is near the bottom of the tank and attaching that to a hose and a deck fitting. At the end of the PVC coming out of the cap I would attach a union which would facilitate capping both ends off if needed.
With a spare cap I could still use the thing as intended if I ever wanted to and it just seemed that the cap was a flatter more conducive place to drill a hole and would be cheaper to replace should I screw it up.
Any potential pitfalls here to my plan?
What I was considering was using the Uniseal in the cap of my porti-pottie tank inserting a length of PVC with maybe a 45 elbow to make sure it is near the bottom of the tank and attaching that to a hose and a deck fitting. At the end of the PVC coming out of the cap I would attach a union which would facilitate capping both ends off if needed.
With a spare cap I could still use the thing as intended if I ever wanted to and it just seemed that the cap was a flatter more conducive place to drill a hole and would be cheaper to replace should I screw it up.
Any potential pitfalls here to my plan?
Sounds ok to me. You won't need the 45 elbow if you made the pipe exactly the right length to touch the bottom of the tank, then cut it at about a 25 degree angle...more will leave too much in the tank...less is more likely to trap undissolved TP or solids.
I like the pvc idea, easier to keep in place too. Rinsing would be great and I plan to have a big bucket ready to pour, but having spoken to a rep at Pumpoutusa about their policies, he, at least, was a surly bloke, who was very emphatic about the deck waste fitting. Hope they are not all that way so I can do the rinse without getting the operator po'd.
The PVC pipe would only be at the tank end of the hose...the other end of the hose would connect to the deck fitting.
The advantage is, you won't have a dripping hose end that's been in a tankful of sewage/