Port lights

[ggrizzard]

It seems that some of you want to know the ins and outs of port light replacement. And, since future readers may hit this thread looking for detailed information, I am including the following video from a lovely couple from Brazil who are doing just that:

If you watch the entire video, you'll understand why some of us with no experience will not attempt this mega project on our own. I suggest activating the "CC" (closed caption) feature, as they talk really fast at times.
Enjoy!
G.

 

[jssailem]

Hi Brian. Coming to the question a bit late. I think to answer the original question it can be any of the materials you identified. I have nine ports that surround my salon. They are laminated two layer glass. I'll be replacing as many of them as break this spring. It has come the time that the seals holding them in place have dried out and they are now wicking water into the cabin. Separately, but in concert, I will be removing the trim pieces. Cleaning them and reinstalling them hoping to get another 20 plus years of service.

 

[Dave N]

A number of manufacturers, Catalina, Tanzer, Sabre to name a few, used aluminum frames for the fixed portlights. The gaskets the lens fits into is a standard item available from CR Laurence and I believe from Catalina Direct. Look for vinyl glazing. After installation, Sabre trimmed the outer flange and sealed with silicon caulk.

Gaskets for opening hatches, like the Lewmar hatches can be proprietary. Defender and others sell gasket material by the foot for Bomar opening hatches with cast frames.

I disassembled one from my Sabre 38 today and noticed the "trimmed" outer flange you reference. Does anyone sell this type?

 

[dlochner]

I disassembled one from my Sabre 38 today and noticed the "trimmed" outer flange you reference. Does anyone sell this type?

Nope. Use a razor knife to trim the outer flange and then seal with a silicone caulk. That's what Sabre did.

 

[dLj]

What material is used in port lights? Is it real glass or maybe Lexar, or plexiglass or some kind of acrylic? Can anyone buy that material, cut and then replace the port light glass?

I see I'm coming rather later to this conversation.

The age old discussion about the difference between acrylic and polycarbonate is quite dated. Modern polycarbonate formulations are now done with UV resistant additives that have significantly improved their UV resistance compared with the formulations used in those early comparisons. That being said, there is a difference in how these two materials perform w.r.t. flexing within a frame. As a rule of thumb, I would replace with what you have already in place. In the case of tempered glass however, doing those types of ports is not a DIY type project. Most people don't have the capability to cut tempered glass in their shop, if you are one of those, then you likely wouldn't be asking this question.

As a rule of thumb, vertical side windows often found on the cabin top if replacing with a polymer, I'd use cast acrylic. If you are replacing overhead hatches in metal frames, I'd use modern UV resistant polycarbonate. If my port had tempered glass, I'd take them to a pro to get replaced unless I wanted to get rid of hte tempered glass. But I'd have to look at the window design to comment further.

As far as seals, the suggestion by @lillia28 is excellent. I'd use n-buena material. Of course, the specific geometry of the original seal would need review.

dj