Well, here goes. I've just ordered new port lights for our 1981 H33. We are replacing the original Gray ones, only this time all of them will open (right now only four are opening ports). I'm looking for removal and installation advise from the many of you who have already bellied up the bar and braved this project. One question, did they 5200 them in at the factory? Man, I sure hope not. Before anyone questions me as to why more Gray's, the answer is simple. They have worked great for twenty+ years, I'm sure some new ones will work in our coastal crusing mode for another 10+ years.
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Check the archives...
Check the archives - there's lots on the subject. If memory serves, Ed Shenck did a photo essay on replacing the Gray portlights on his 1982 37C. He replaced with other than Gray but he covered removal - I think they were bedded in silicone.
Check the archives - there's lots on the subject. If memory serves, Ed Shenck did a photo essay on replacing the Gray portlights on his 1982 37C. He replaced with other than Gray but he covered removal - I think they were bedded in silicone.
Replacing Gray ports
Below is link for my experience in replacing the ports in a 79 H33. a couple of comments. Silicone is recommended on the sticker attached to the ports but several who have ordered the ports also report receiving instructions from the supplier, (manufacturer?) saying 5200 is recommended. Silicone guns 1000 percent better than 5200 and so it is easier to seal the space between the ports and the cutouts. Also, silicone is pretty much uv impervious (not so 5200)and there is a considerable exposure of caulk between the portruding barrel and the sealing ring. On the other hand, test any silicone for adhesion to the plastic surface before using to install. On a couple of my ports I had some caulk evidently out of date and the adhesion was poor enough to require replacing. I'm still sold on silicone though. if the manufacturer puts a label on the port specifying caulk, that label should be adhered to.
Below is link for my experience in replacing the ports in a 79 H33. a couple of comments. Silicone is recommended on the sticker attached to the ports but several who have ordered the ports also report receiving instructions from the supplier, (manufacturer?) saying 5200 is recommended. Silicone guns 1000 percent better than 5200 and so it is easier to seal the space between the ports and the cutouts. Also, silicone is pretty much uv impervious (not so 5200)and there is a considerable exposure of caulk between the portruding barrel and the sealing ring. On the other hand, test any silicone for adhesion to the plastic surface before using to install. On a couple of my ports I had some caulk evidently out of date and the adhesion was poor enough to require replacing. I'm still sold on silicone though. if the manufacturer puts a label on the port specifying caulk, that label should be adhered to.
File or Grind Angle Around Edge
One thing I'd add is to file or grind an angle around the edge of the port hole opening - see Terry's picture where the port is placed in the opening temporarily. http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/pix.tpl?folder=73127723759&sku=309798290743435511&fno=17 On the Bomars, and I would think on the Greys as well, around the inside of the trim ring where it sets against the coach roof there is a 45-degree relief for the sealant. Do the same thing on the coach roof just opposite. This will provide much more bonding and sealing between the port and the coach roof to prevent leaks. My Bomar replacements have been leak-free now for going on five years
Used Dow 795 black because the ports are black. The new ports will make the boat look great!!
One thing I'd add is to file or grind an angle around the edge of the port hole opening - see Terry's picture where the port is placed in the opening temporarily. http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/pix.tpl?folder=73127723759&sku=309798290743435511&fno=17 On the Bomars, and I would think on the Greys as well, around the inside of the trim ring where it sets against the coach roof there is a 45-degree relief for the sealant. Do the same thing on the coach roof just opposite. This will provide much more bonding and sealing between the port and the coach roof to prevent leaks. My Bomar replacements have been leak-free now for going on five years
Used Dow 795 black because the ports are black. The new ports will make the boat look great!!
I'm prob. one of the few who...
used 5200 on my installation. Terry is right about the 5200 being a little more difficult to manage, but I have not had to redo any of my installations yet. NO LEAKS. I also reworked all the holes from the old ports, making sure to remove any damaged wood and refaired, completely sealed all edges with thickened epoxy resin and had a completely finished edge all around before installing the new Grays. I like many believe 20 years plus is good enough for another round. Good luck, take your time, be sure to remove all traces of old sealant... acetone worked well for me.
used 5200 on my installation. Terry is right about the 5200 being a little more difficult to manage, but I have not had to redo any of my installations yet. NO LEAKS. I also reworked all the holes from the old ports, making sure to remove any damaged wood and refaired, completely sealed all edges with thickened epoxy resin and had a completely finished edge all around before installing the new Grays. I like many believe 20 years plus is good enough for another round. Good luck, take your time, be sure to remove all traces of old sealant... acetone worked well for me.
Thriftymariner.com
I replaced mine with new ones from Thrifty Mariner. They have some small cosmetic defects and sell at a substantial discount. On the subject of installation, I did mine quite different. I did not want any bolts exposed on the exterior. I used some SS LOCK (real thin nuts) nuts and modified a drill bit to provide a relief for the nut on the exterior fiberglass. I then used silicone and bedded from the inside and the bolts were just long enough to not protrude. I then sealed the the opening around the protruding portion of the port, the nuts and glued the trim ring on covering the nuts. I did this 4 years ago and NO LEAKS. It also looks great as there are no bolts showing from the exterior of the boat. Good luck Royce Hallock
I replaced mine with new ones from Thrifty Mariner. They have some small cosmetic defects and sell at a substantial discount. On the subject of installation, I did mine quite different. I did not want any bolts exposed on the exterior. I used some SS LOCK (real thin nuts) nuts and modified a drill bit to provide a relief for the nut on the exterior fiberglass. I then used silicone and bedded from the inside and the bolts were just long enough to not protrude. I then sealed the the opening around the protruding portion of the port, the nuts and glued the trim ring on covering the nuts. I did this 4 years ago and NO LEAKS. It also looks great as there are no bolts showing from the exterior of the boat. Good luck Royce Hallock
thrifty mariner phone #
i need to get 2 ports from thrifty mariner but i lost his new phone # any help out there thanks
i need to get 2 ports from thrifty mariner but i lost his new phone # any help out there thanks
Heat
I replaced one of the old Gray ports on my 1980 Hunter 30 last year. I found that a standard hair dryer gave enough heat to soften the old caulk so that the old port came away without a problem. I used sand paper and a Dremel tool to clean the edge of the hole down to bare wood and acetone to remove any old caulk. There was a considerable gap between the port and the sides of the hole which was totally filled with caulk. I used 5200 to rebed the new port and exterior sealing ring. No leaks!
I replaced one of the old Gray ports on my 1980 Hunter 30 last year. I found that a standard hair dryer gave enough heat to soften the old caulk so that the old port came away without a problem. I used sand paper and a Dremel tool to clean the edge of the hole down to bare wood and acetone to remove any old caulk. There was a considerable gap between the port and the sides of the hole which was totally filled with caulk. I used 5200 to rebed the new port and exterior sealing ring. No leaks!
great info
Terry, your pics are great, thanks a bunch. There are a lot of good ideas here and I can't wait to start on this one. But first I have to replace my raw water pump. I'll let you all know how it goes. It might take a few months to finish it.
Terry, your pics are great, thanks a bunch. There are a lot of good ideas here and I can't wait to start on this one. But first I have to replace my raw water pump. I'll let you all know how it goes. It might take a few months to finish it.
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